Adam Suprenant, winemaker at Osprey’s Dominion Vineyards is a busy man.

While many Long Island wineries crank out only four, eight, maybe even 12 different wines each year, Suprenant makes no fewer than two dozen. These wines range in style from sweet, entry-level wines made with peaches and strawberries all the way up to a stellar Meritage-style red blends, which he calls "Flight."

Such a diverse portfolio creates an interesting situation in the tasting room and a visit there can be a hit-or-miss proposition. On several occasions, I’ve found myself elbow to elbow with college-age kids treating the tasting room like a college-town bar. On those days, it can be difficult to even get up to the tasting bar but on quieter days you’ll be pleasantly surprised by some of the wines deeper into the portfolio, particularly the reds. In fact, almost without exception, the red wines are the real draw here. One such exception is Suprenant’s Osprey’s Dominion’s 2005 Unwooded Chardonnay.

As the name clearly relays, this wine was born and raised completely without the pesky influence or flavors from oak barrels–a style that is gaining popularity both locally and internationally. The nose is a little tight, but shows nice tree fruit and mineral aromas. Clean green apple, pear and mineral aromas carry over nicely to the palate, which is medium bodied, fresh and fun. Though not a wine to ponder or disect, it is the kind of straightforward sipper everyone needs in the summer time. It’s also perfectly suited to sipping along with local shellfish this summer–both raw or delicatedly treated.