Wolffer Estate Vineyard, one of Long Island’s most recognizable and accomplished wineriesis celebrating its 20th anniversary with six limited-release wines that "push the boundaries of Long Island winemaking." Roman Roth, hired by Christian Wolffer in 1992, is known as one of the region’s premier winemakers and these new wines both exemplify and no doubt challenged his winemaking acumen. Each is named for a horse from the Wolffer Stables, a 100-acre, 80-stall facility that apparently has the largest indoor riding field on the East Coast. I got to taste four of the six wines last weekend, and today we’ll start with…