Thanksgiving wine columns. Editors demand them. Writers write them. Some wayward readers even clamor for them. Me? I hate them. Well, hate is a strong word. Too strong probably. What I do hate is seeing people so stressed out over wine pairing — Thanksgiving or not — that they rely on the words of a stranger just because they are printed on paper. It's not worth worrying about, people. Wine "experts" and sommeliers don't want you to think so, but wine pairing is often much more about avoiding bad pairings than it is finding the singular "perfect" one. Are there…
