It makes perfect sense that Russell Hearn, winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards and co-founder (with his wife Susan) of the new SURU label would buy riesling grapes from the Finger Lakes to make his first SURU riesling.
It is where the best rieslings in America are grown and made, after all. And, if the wines I've already tasted from the 2008 vintage are any indication, it could be a banner year for Finger Lakes riesling.
SURU 2008 Riesling ($15) stays true to its Finger Lakes beginnings. It is a delicate, focused wine with light floral aromas bringing complexity to a nose dominated by grapefruit, green apple and kafir lime leaf.
Lithe and dry, the palate offers austere flavors that closely match the nose with the addition of extremely subtle apricot and mineral components.
This is an okay value at $15, but I found it a bit less expressive than many other 2008 Finger Lakes riesling I’ve had. Still, it's well balanced fresh and refreshing… if a little austere.
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)