By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief Barrel-fermented chardonnay isn't my favorite style. That's well documented. But, that doesn't mean I can't appreciate one that is well-made. This Lenz Winery 2007 Old Vines Chardonnay ($25) is one that I appreciate. In fact, I went back to this a few times after my tasting was complete and enjoyed it quite a bit. Of course, it's not completely barrel fermented either. Winemaker Eric Fry employs "limited barrel fermentation" and while this wine is aged in oak, Fry tends to "use older barrels that allow the wine to achieve greater complexity and flavor concentration but leave…