By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief Gewurztraminer is a relatively rare grape on Long Island, but Lenz Winery winemaker Eric Fry has an affection for it — which is a good thing. He makes one of the region's best, always in a dry style. Sometimes gewurztraminer can get too floral, even for those of us who love the grape, but this Lenz Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer ($20) isn't like that. The nose is all lychee, ginger and spices like cardamon and nutmeg, backed by pineapple and a zesty grapefruit edge. Medium bodied, the palate features good-but-not crunchy acidity that frames sweet pinapple-citrus fruit…