By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief Damiani Wine Cellars, on the eastern shorts of Seneca Lake, has built a reputation around its red wines — a unique focus in a region known mostly for its aromatic whites. They do make white wines — and now bubbly — too though, and while most of them have underwhelmed, this Damiani Wine Cellars 2008 Riesling ($16) stood out during my tasting last weekend. The winery sourced the riesling for this wine from one of the region's most experienced and respected growers — Sam Argetsinger. I've tasted a couple other rieslings (1|2) made with Sam's grapes…