By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Wolffer_09grandiosoI often lament the ever-increasing pricing of Long Island rose.

There are some beautifully balanced, refreshing — and most importantly — satisfying pink wines being made here, but wines that only a few years ago were in the $13-15 range now regularly top $18.

This year, there were at least a half dozen roses priced at $20 or more.

In a region that suffers from a lack of quality red wines at $20, having rose prices there is disappointing, but hey, if people will pay…

When I first heard about Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2009 Grandioso Rose ($29) I was surprised, to say the least. Maybe a little turned off too.

But guess what? It's good. Very good. It has to be because in that price range, it's competing with the best roses in the world.

Clean, fresh aromas of peaches, passion fruit and red berries mingle on a nose that also featured a layer of sweet herbs.

The gently creamy, frankly seamless, palate has an earthy edge to it, bringing textural and flavor complexity the same peach-passionate fruit-red berry combination found on the nose, with an even healthier dose of herbs. Think thyme and cilantro.

It's particularly creamy with a spicy, nutty lees note, on the mid-palate, with a long, classy finish that displays balance, and freshness.

Is it worth $29? I honestly can't say. I don't typically spend that much on rose from any region, but it's a beautiful wine.

If you do try it, make sure that you let it warm up — almost to room temperature. Only then will you really experience all that this wine has to offer.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards

AVA: Long Island

Composition: 60% cabernet franc, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 11% merlot, 9% chardonnay.
pH: 3.30

TA: 7.0 g/l

RS: 0%

ABV: 12.5%

Case Production: 367
Price: $29*

Rating: 87

(*Ratings Guide)