By Evan Dawson Winemakers love to tell you that wine is made in the vineyard. Sometimes it's schlock. Sometimes it's humility. Often it's true. But in vintages like 2009, when the vineyard has been challenged, wine is also made in the winery. And there are some wonderful surprises beginning to surface. That doesn't mean it was a vintage that demanded a heavy hand for manipulation. It just means that common decisions took on more gravity in 2009. The thoughtful winemakers are seeing it pay off. We can begin with the understanding that 2009 in the Finger Lakes was a complex…