Mccall_07respinotBy Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

As I mentioned in my review of Russ McCall's non-reserve 2007 pinot noir, you've probably driven right past the McCall family's Corchaug Estate for years — without even knowing it — because it's right across the street from Pellegrini Vineyards.

The tasting room is closed for the winter now, but it's worth a visit in the spring.

That lithe, table-ready non-reserve bottling is made with fruit from McCall's Pommard clone vines.

This McCall Wines 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve ($45) comes from his 777 Dijon clone vines, and tasted side-by-side the differences are obvious.

Fruit forward, the nose shows dense aromas of sweet red cherry, red raspberry and dried strawberries, accented by a subtle earthy notes.

Any oak influence is nearly buried beneath the intensely ripe fruit. It's nice to see a wine this ripe note overwhelmed with oak in its youth.

Far fleshier and riper than its little sister, this wine has an intense, brooding core of cherry and red berry with a vein of minerally graphite running through it. There is a distant earthy note too, but it lurks in the background.

Silky, ripe tannins and light acidity bring structure.

On day two, a delicious cherry skin character — both flavor and texture — steps forward. This is a wine that needs and deserves time in the cellar to show its all.

Producer: McCall Wines
ABV: 12.5%
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $45*
Rating: 88

(Ratings Guide)