By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Palmer-sauv-blanc I've found some of Long Island's 2010 sauvignon blancs a bit lacking — mostly in the balance department.

They all have plenty of fruit — hot, dry year and all that. A few are so ripe that those citrusy-grassy flavors one expects from local sauvignon are absent. That doesn't bother me. Vintage variation is a part of life in New York wine.

What does disappoint is a lack of acidity and the occasional 'hot' wine that simple shows too much alcohol.

It was with all of this in my mind that I tasted Palmer Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($19) — and was reminded of just how delicious local sauvignon blanc can be.

The nose bulges at the seams with sauvignon blanc character — lemon and grapefruit, but also green melon with hints kiwi, sweet herbs and green grass.

Snappy but balanced, the medium-bodied palate shows electric acidity that frames ripe, intense fruit — more citrus and melon — and a subtle salty minerality. The finish lingers beautifully and shows off the crisp, balanced texture of this wine and an intriguing lemongrass note at the very end.

To date, this is the epitome of 2010 Long Island sauvignon blanc. A real stand out.

Producer: Palmer Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%  
Price: $19*

(4 out of 5 | Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)


(*Ratings Guide)