By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor 2006 was anything but a banner year on the North Fork. What was a mediocre growing season to begin with was worsened by two early frost events in early fall. The reds from the vintage generally — remember, there are always exceptions — reflect that as a lack of ripeness and fruit intensity. This Comtesse Therese 2006 Hungarian Oak Merlot ($21) largely lacks under-ripe or green flavors but does lack some concentration. On the nose, scents of cigar box, black pepper and brown spice are a bit too much for the understated red cherry aromas.…