Foodie-to-Farm Tour 2012: An Adventure in Chautauqua County
Busti Cider Mill
A farm tour of Chautauqua county this weekend, organized and led by Feed Your Soul founder and Buffalo Spree Food Editor Christa Glennie Seychew, brought the region’s incredible farm scene to life for forty-five Buffalonians with a visit to a cider mill, two family farms, and a winery, as well as two farm-to-table dinners by Western New York’s most renowned chefs.
“This is the 5th anniversary of this tour, and it’s absolutely my favorite event of the year,” said Seychew at the start of the tour. Seychew’s company advancing the local food movement, called Feed Your Soul, hosted the all-day event.
We began in Jamestown At Busti Cider Mill, where we had the chance to see an old-fashioned cider mill and press that the owners, Bob and Judi Schulz, moved from Syracuse 30 years ago and use to this day. It was amazing watching the machine in action, and the accompanying cider was very tasty.
Shiitake mushrooms at Green Heron Growers
From there we headed to Green Heron Growers, which was a high point of the tour and one of the coolest spots I’ve found in the area.
Founders Julie and Steve Rockcastle use their stunning site for organic produce, a shiitake mushroom garden, and grass-fed cattle. After the tour, Bruce Wieszala, sous chef at Carmelo’s in Lewiston and famed charcuterie king, prepared a picnic lunch of beef and mushroom burgers and peach cobbler made almost entirely from the farm’s ingredients (the burger buns were made by Pastry Chef Ellen Gedra of Bistro Europa and the cheese on the burgers came from Nickel City Cheese and Mercantile, both local businesses). A thoroughly stuffed and happy tour group then took the opportunity to shop at the farm store.
Happy hens at Good Grass Farm
We were on to Ashville, New York, where Jef Creager and Karen Kearney raise poultry on Good Grass Farm, another lovely property.
The happy, passionate couple and their cute toddler, Elsa, took our group to meet their chickens and turkeys while they discussed responsible farming. “What motivates me is the goal of growing the best food possible,” said Creager. “I know everything that goes into these chickens, everything that happens to them, and I know that that’s the best way to do it. That’s what makes it worthwhile.”
Before dinner, we stopped for a tasting at Johnson Estate Winery. Our group was greeted with a glass of sparkling traminette in the vineyard and a presentation by Fred Johnson, who took over the family business less than two years ago after a career in agriculture took him around the world. His story of the family’s decision to make wine, fifty years ago, resembled that of many Lake Erie wineries: a desire to branch out from the business of growing table grapes for giant companies and create an artisan product to be sold on the estate.
We viewed the tasting room and cellar and then tasted five wines, which co-owner Jennifer Johnson selected for us on the basis that they were all gold-medal winners. The dry 2011 Riesling and accompanying semi-dry version were nicely balanced and my favorites of the bunch. Explaining that Lake Erie was too far north to ripen Bordeaux varietals like cabernet and merlot, the Johnsons also poured us their Long Island–sourced cabernet sauvignon. Finally, they announced that they will be premiering the first sparkling, methode champanoise ice wine in North America––I look forward to trying it upon my next visit. A lovely plate of cheeses, dried fruits, and marechal foch grapes was a nice accompanying snack for our tasting.
We capped off the tour with a meal at the Chautauqua Institution’s beautiful Athenaeum Hotel, where Chef Ross Warhol, who was recently awarded a James Beard dinner and is one of the region’s most accomplished chefs despite his mere 24 years of age, prepared our farm-to-table meal.
Green Heron Growers beef tartare with an egg yolk, washed down with a Southern Tier Porter, was a highlight for me, as was an heirloom tomato salad with garlic custard and herbed croutons paired with Southern Tier 2XIPA. I have dined at the Athenaeum twice and found Chef Warhol’s food to be incredibly balanced in texture, beautifully arranged, and celebratory of the region’s rich farming community.
The tour was a striking and inspiring look at the bounty of our region and a chance to make personal connections with local farmers. I’m already planning on coming back for Green Heron Growers’s class on growing mushrooms at home, and I have a revamped shopping list for the city farmer’s markets. I never cease to be inspired and amazed by tour organizer Christa Glennie Seychew’s events––they’re always fun, organized to the last detail, and a joy for both attendees and participating businesses. I highly recommend next year’s tour, and all Feed Your Soul events, to Western New York lovers of local.
Dear Julie,
It was great to meet you on your visit to Johnson Estate with the Foodie to Farm Group. I know that it was a full day in more ways than one!
You asked whether we “resweetened” or “back-added” sugar to our semi-sweet Riesling – I confirmed just now with our winemaker, Jeff Murphy, that we stop fermentation and do not back-add sugar to the wine.
We are glad that you enjoyed our two estate Rieslings – we are quite pleased with the Beverage Testing Institute scores of 93 and 92 for our 2011 releases!
We look forward to seeing you again in the winery – please let us know when you might be interested in a vineyard tour. We’d be happy to oblige.
Jennifer Johnson
Johnson Estate Winery
Hi–
Just a quick comment – the Lake Erie region can ripen some Bordeaux varieties; I know if at least one other grower besides us who are growing (and ripening) Cab Sauv.
“I know OF…” that should read. Sorry for any confusion. Just don’t want the region to be mischaracterized.
Wendy, I was definitely quoting Fred rather than asserting my own viewpoint–up here in Niagara, two hours north of Chautauqua, our growers ripen Bordeaux varietals beautifully
Would be interested in your recommendations for Lake Erie-grown Cabernet and merlot producers.
Wendy: It’s always treacherous to generalize about a wine region or anything related to wine, but I don’t think two wineries ripening cabernet sauvignon means Bordeaux varieties are standouts in the region.
Heck, even here on Long Island, the warmest wine region in the state, cabernet doesn’t ripen fully, consistently.
Of course “ripe” means different things to different people.
Lenn,
Thank you – you are right.
If I were to expand on Fred’s comments, it is exactly that – that our region might not be successful in having premium ripening weather every year on a consistent and reliable basis for these dry reds and hence our rationale for purchasing them from the New York location, Long Island, whose summer climate is warmer than here. We hope to ship Riesling to them one day if the stars align!
Hi all–
The quotation in the story does NOT say that Bordeaux varieties are a standout in the region; it says, “Explaining that Lake Erie was too far north to ripen Bordeaux varietals like cabernet and merlot…” Clearly, it’s not when some growers ARE able to ripen them. Note that “consistently” does not appear in the full quote.
Is 21 brix considered ripe to you, Lenn? We’ve gotten it for Cab Sauv, Carmenere, Shiraz, and P Noir throughout the years (obv these are not all Bordeaux). Not every year, no, but not just one year either. The other grower we know who is growing Cab just opened a winery called 21 Brix, btw.
Thanks to Jennifer for clarifying the remark, which is a much more accurate way of describing a business decision. They make very nice wine there, and it’s great to see a Lake Erie winery featured.
Wendy: I don’t want to get into a detailed viticulture discussion, but without knowing a lot more, I’m not sure if 21 brix is “ripe” or not. As you well know, sugar is only one indication of ripeness. I assume it’s not the only measurement you’re using to make picking decisions.
I will say that the handful of locally grown BDX-variety wines that I’ve had from the region have had some underripe flavors. It’s a small sample set and I’m more than happy to taste others and be proven wrong.
I also didn’t read the original quote as Bordeaux varieties NEVER
“ripening” in the region. Those who know wine know better than to assume something like that. Most of the planting decisions in cooler climates are more about disease pressure and winter hardiness, aren’t they?
Brix level is not a determining factor of phenolic ripeness which is much more important in determining if a particular variety is suitable in a given location. Wineries that use brix as a marketing tool are contributing to the idea that quality is somehow tied to potential alcohol which is about the only thing brix will tell you.
I was using the example of brix as a way of not getting very technical about ripeness – of course it’s not the only measure – in our vineyard, we take samples and get brix, pH, and acid readings which *help* us decide when to pick. Other factors are fruit condition (including firmness of skins, botrytis or other rot, insect sting damage, etc.), ability of the fruit to ripen further (e.g. if sunny, dry weather is over for the season), bird or deer pressure that would reduce the crop, personal impressions of the winemaker, and winery scheduling.
I don’t think you can generalize reasons for planting any one varietal. Yes, winter hardiness and pest/disease pressure are important considerations – they are factors that make up one part of planting decisions. Soil appropriateness, microclimate (in addition to winter hardiness considerations), site location, clone availability, and market considerations are other reasons.
The Lake Erie region is in its infant stages as a wine region and I simply think this site could do a better job of reporting on the region.
Wendy: Putting all discussion of ripeness aside, I’m disappointed to hear that you think that we “could do a better job reporting on the region.”
As you know, I — and the entire NYCR staff — run this website out of an insane passion and drive to explore the wonderful beverages and foods of New York state. Unfortunately, we’ve had a difficult time finding the right person to cover your neck of the woods. We’ve tried a couple times, but it just hasn’t worked out yet.
Because of our challenges geographically (Julia is closer to your region than I am, but she’s our beer editor and doesn’t really write about wine for us) we are reliant on suggestions and tips from people like you.
If you have any questions or comments about our editorial coverage, I’d appreciate it if you’d direct them to me lenn@newyorkcorkreport.com I’m always game for discussing this website and its direction.
As for this entire thread — I stand by Julia and her story. She is a professional and I trust her judgement and ability to quote someone in a story without question.
I didn’t question the reporter’s judgement and her story is well written. My beef is that, since you don’t have a correspondent from the region, it’s difficult for a reporter to know when a quote should be clarified or fact-checked. That’s a problem for you, not her.
You know my criticism of the website – there is no Lake Erie correspondent and such a dearth of stories about the region that it doesn’t even have its own section. Obviously I’m not questioning your passion and impetus behind creating the site; I just want our region accurately represented. I don’t think that’s too much to ask.
Wendy: I don’t agree with you about ‘fact checking’ a quote. Julia didn’t present the content as fact. She presented it as a quote from someone in the industry. Perhaps it’s not a problem for or for her — but rather for your industry to perhaps get on the same page with their message for consumers and journalists?
I’ve tried the best that I can (and I know Evan has tried as well) to offer a bit more coverage for Lake Erie. We’ve both sent emails asking for harvest updates (like those across the state send us). I’ve requested samples of wines for review. All mostly to no avail. In fact, the Johnsons have really been the only ones to respond at all — and it’s been years at this point.
“..for me or for her” not “for or her”