If you’re driving out from mid-Island, Greenport’s only winery seems like it’s located at the end of the earth. As you pass more familiar faces on the North Road (Hi Sparkling Pointe! What’s up, One Woman?), you wonder if you could possibly die from holding your bladder. Why couldn’t you just stop closer to the LIE? Then you see it. From the distance, Kontokosta Winery is a weathered grey structure: imposing and lonely on a windswept chunk of land that brings to mind the moors of the Scottish Highlands. After a quick jaunt down the dirt road, you start to…