Lower- and no-oak chardonnay is getting a lot of attention in California these days — especially among the “New California” set — but this style of chardonnay has been popular for many years in Long Island wine country — and this is Mattebella Vineyards‘ first foray into the barrel-less chardonnay game. Mattebella Vineyards 2013 Steel Chardonnay ($20) smells like fresh pears and yellow apples with just a hint of sweet corn. Sometimes steel chardonnay can be a bit lean and tinny, but this one is fleshier than that with a gently creamy mid-palate. Fruit-forward and fairly direct, the palate is…