Thanksgiving wine columns. Editors demand them. Writers write them. Of course, people read them. They must. These “Perfect Thanksgiving Wine” columns are ubiquitous. We don’t like them here, though. We don’t think anyone should worry so much about wine pairings of any sort, for any meal.¬†Wine pairing is often much more about avoiding bad pairings than it is finding the singular “perfect” wine for whatever is on your plate. Barbera is getting a lot of attention this year in Thanksgiving columns. It’s a great pick — fruity, low-tannin and crunch with acidity. But is it t he “perfect Thanksgiving wine?…