By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Libby Prejean has not been back to West Virginia in 60 years, but sometimes she just can't help it. The "I" becomes an "Ah." The edges of her speech get lethargic. "I can't call people on the phone without them knowing!" she says. But as she turns 80 years old, Prejean admits that if her speech hasn't changed, so much else has. She helped launch Prejean Winery on Seneca Lake nearly a quarter century ago, and I caught up with her over a glass of Marechal Foch on a slow Wednesday morning, yesterday. "They…