Posts Tagged“Review”

Lenz Winery 2010 Malbec

Lenz Winery 2010 Malbec ($35) — the winery’s first-ever varietal malbec release — opens with a beautiful nose of ripe plum, blueberry and currant with notes of black licorice, tar and lilac. Juicy and fruity on the palate with almost no oak footprint, the fruit edges on over-ripe with dried plum and fig notes joining the dark fruits apparent on the nose. Licorice pokes its head in on the mid-palate. The tannins are lightly grippy, but it’s acidity that provides most of the structure. Medium-long black cherry-meets-fig finish.   Producer: The Lenz Winery AVA: North Fork of Long Island ABV: 13%…

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The Grapes of Roth 2006 Merlot

The first Grapes of Roth merlot release since Wolffer absorbed the brand, the Grapes of Roth 2006 Merlot ($44) reflects the less-than-perfect growing season, but still maintains the reputation the label has earned since debuting with a 2001 merlot. Nutty oak and loamy earth lead the way on the nose, with understated fruit in the form of dried cherries and blueberries beneath. Meaty and mouth-filing, the palate features cottony tannins that frame restrained, slightly tired fruit flavors that mingle with toasty oak, graphite and a dried mint note. On day one, the finish shows a slightly bitter edge that softens…

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Red Tail Ridge Winery 2011 “RTR Vineyard” Pinot Noir

Fruity, with fresh red cherries and red raspberries the nose on the Red Tail Ridge 2011 “RTR Vineyard” Pinot Noir ($20) also shows hints of earthy mushrooms, lavender/lilac and subtle brown spice. It’s a pretty, subtly complex nose. Light bodied, soft and a bit dilute on the mid-palate, the palate doesn’t quite live up to the nose. Red fruits again dominate flavor-wise — cherry, cranberry — with savory, woodsy spice and earthiness. Producer: Red Tail Ridge Winery AVA: Finger Lakes Clone(s): Swan, 113, 114, 115 and 23 Harvest Date(s): September 18 and 25 Yields: 2.5 tons/acre ABV: 12% TA: 5.3…

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Forge Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir

I try to learn something from every wine I put into my mouth. Sometimes the revelations are bigger than others. Sometimes they are subtle reminders. Forge Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir ($25) reminded me why I taste wines the way I do (when I’m reviewing them, anyway) and why some reviewers are doing it all wrong. Upon opening, this cooler-vintage pinot is waif-like in its delicate aromas of red cherry, dried strawberry, Earl Grey tea and faint spice. Similarly, the palate is very light bodied, with a core of red berries, dried flowers and just a touch of earthy dried leaves.…

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Red Newt Cellars 2011 Lahoma Vineyard Riesling

As my colleague Evan Dawson wrote last spring, there is an emerging style of riesling in the Finger Lakes — one that is sweeter, yes, but also richer and more concentrated on the mid-palate. These aren’t sweeter to appeal to those looking for sweet wines. Instead, they are sweet to express a vineyard or a vintage better than a bone dry wine might. And these aren’t dessert wines. Balance is the key here and Red Newt Cellars 2011 Lahoma Vineyard Riesling ($20) is a fine example of the style. The nose is complex and nearly impenetrable when the wine is…

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Duck Walk Vineyards 2010 Pinot Meunier

There must have been at least some sour rot in the fruit that winemaker Edward Lovaas had to work with for Duck Walk Vineyards 2010 Pinot Meunier ($23). You can smell the vinegar-y notes right up front on the nose. Behind the rot/VA are some nice red berry aromas — red cherry and raspberry — but the acetic acid is hard to get past. That off-putting character is less evident on the medium-light bodied palate, where bright red raspberry flavors mingle with note of dried cherry, prune and slightly raw oak flavors. The tannins are are grippy and the acidity plenty…

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Villa Bellangelo 2012 Dry Riesling

Tangy and driven by wet slate — rather than fresh fruit — character, Villa Bellangelo 2012 Dry Riesling ($19) is a reminder of just how difficult it is to make great dry riesling. It’s very minerally on the nose — think wet river rock and slate — with background notes of Granny Smith apple, just-ripe pear and apple blossom. Lighter bodied, the palate is so slate-y as to be almost salty, with faint lime and grapefruit zest flavors as well. The acidity is bitter-pithy rather than juicy. The mid-palate is a bit hollow, but the finish is long and appetite…

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Lenz Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot

For affordable, Old World-leaning red wines, you largely can’t go wrong with Lenz Winery. Winemaker Eric Fry makes food-friendly, balanced wines year in and year out — and doesn’t chase jamminess or high-alcohol in hot years. Lenz Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot ($17) doesn’t have a catchy proprietary name, but it does delivery a lot of complexity and surprising cellar-ability for the money. The nose is fruity, but not one-dimensional with cassis and black cherry fruit interspersed with notes of cigar box and brown spices. Medium-lighter bodied, the palate shows intense — but not at all gobby or jammy — fruit…

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Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2011 No. 239 — Dry Riesling

Looking for an example of a ‘classic’ Finger Lakes riesling nose? Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2011 No. 239 — Dry Riesling ($20) delivers that. It is lime-driven with notes of tangerine, green apple, citrus blossom and just-ripe peach. Feather-light in the mouth, the palate is a bit more peachy, with Golden Delicious apple, a big squirt of lime juice and rocky minerals on the end of a long, dry finish. Juicy, citrusy acidity. While it lacks concentration and mid-palate richness, it shows nice verve and length. Producer: Boundary Breaks Vineyard AVA: Finger Lakes Clone: Geisenheim 239 Brix: 21 ABV: 12.1% RS: 0.6% IRF: Dry Production: 100 cases Price: $20* | Order…

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Keuka Spring Vineyards 2012 “Humphrey’s Vineyard” Riesling

Beautifully perfumed with aromas of apples, apple blossom, lemon zest, fennel and dried apricot, Keuka Spring Vineyards 2012 “Humphrey’s Vineyard” Riesling ($22), shows an impressive combination of complexity with restraint. Focused and fresh, well-integrated, nervy acidity, the palate tastes dry, offering fennel, apple, pear, apple blossom and peach flavors.  Showing great length, the finish lingers with pomme fruit and chamomile tea. Producer: Keuka Spring Vineyards AVA: Finger Lakes Brix: 20 ABV: 12% RS: .9% pH: 3.1 Production: 120 cases Release Date: June 2013 Price: $22* | Order from Empire State Cellars  (4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

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