Beyond New York: Exploring Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
"Man, these California wines suck!"
Last fall at the 2008 Wine Bloggers Conference, that quote could be attributed to me regularly. It was something I said out loud, in an exaggerated manner — mostly to make my fellow wine bloggers laugh. And it worked. Lots of laughs, eye rolls and comments about thin, underripe reds from New York.
I mean, they know me as the New York wine guy, so why not play that up by putting down those overripe, overoaked high-alcohol cocktail wines from California?
Oops, I did it again.
All jokes aside, not all California wines suck. They sell way too much of it — some at incredibly high prices — for that to be true. There must be something worth while. What is it about these wines that people love so much?
I don't know. But I want to at least attempt to find out.
And, I'm going with the King of all California wines, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. I'm soliciting recommendations from all of my bloggers/Twitter/wine friends for their favorite Napa cabs $50 and under. I know, this excludes the big boys that get the high-90s scores from the glossy publications, but hey, these are tough financial times for everyone.
So, if you have a favorite Napa cab that is $50 or less, let me know. Within the next few weeks, I'm going to get as many of these wines together as I can and host a blind tasting, throwing cabernet sauvignon from other regions into the mix as well.
Keep an eye out for a full tasting report when I'm done with this little experiment. And, if you have some suggestions for my next wine/AVA to explore, leave a comment.
Lenn, I think “experiments” like this are always a lot of fun.
In terms of California, however, I have little doubt you’ll find some good cabernet sauvignons. No matter how styles have become exaggerated and inflated throughout the last 10 years of cab craziness, the original intent of the Napa region was based on some amazing trailblazing wines. Like you said, with all of that production someone has to be really paying attention to balance.
What I wonder, based on my limited experience, is how California really fares on those other varietals that are grown en masse. I’ve never had a reasonably priced California chardonnay that I liked, or for that matter many other popular whites, nor a pinot noir (and definitely not a riesling!).
Of course, I’ve never been able or willing to buy California wines that range much above $25-35 in price. Are there some great chardonnays to be had for more than that, or pinot noirs, etc.?
Anyway, food for thought (or wine). Looking forward to your ongoing tasting!
Jason and Lenn,
If you go the Pinot route, Asimov provides a nice roadmap here:
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/11/dining/11pour.html?_r=1
Some of the most enjoyable comparisons I’ve done are with California Syrah and Rhone Syrah. I’m curious to hear how your experiment turns out.
Lenn, taking inspiration from my comments posted under the “house of mondavi” thread, I’m going to recommed you try a Mondavi Stags Leap District Cab.
I had one just a week ago from the 2001 vintage and it was very well balanced and very food friendly. I was surprised by the restraint it exhibited.
Not sure what vintage is currenlty out there, but I picked up mine for $40 so I’d hope the latest vintage on the shelf is still under $50.
First off, Congrats on the Wine Bloggers Award. Especially it being a New York based blog (I am a New Yorker of thirty years, but recently moved to Napa Valley via Sicily, long story). I’d like for you to put our wine in the blind tasting mix, Larkmead Vineyards 2006 Cabernet ($55, a little over budget). Looking forward to the results….
Dan Petroski
Assistant Winemaker
Lenn,
Here is a link to a similar idea done in 2005, and if I sent it to you before forgive the redunduncy: http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?t=45025
All in all California is not monolithic. They have quite a diversity, even though many of the wines that some of the wine publications seem to prefer end up being highly extracted and highly alcoholic to the point where they appear to lack balance.
Going back to the wines of the 80s and the 90s it was rare to see anything above 13 to 14% alcohol by volume.
If you are looking for better quality CS under $50 I know of no better scout than Ray Ormand who frequently posts on great finds at lower prices. Include him in your tasting and secure his wine hunting talents.
Charles
Cliff Lede Cab. Sauv. 2005 is very good. Around 50 bucks.
Lenn,
My sister’s boyfriend works for Michael Skurnik Wines, and he loves Detert Cab Sauv. For years they supplied their grapes for Mondavi Reserve and Opus One.
http://www.skurnikwines.com/wines.cgi?rm=view_detail&wine_id=10600
I found it a bit over $50, but pretty close:
http://www.discountwinedepot.com/shopexd.asp?t=Detert+Family+Vineyards+Cabernet+Sauvignon+Napa+Valley&catalogid=438922&template=tmp_prddetails.htm
I would suggest Truchard, Sinskey, Larkmead or John Anthony.
To Art’s list I would add: Corison, MacLean, and von Strasser, with the caveat that you’ll need to use wine-searcher.com to hit your price ceiling.
Lenn - you should have come to the Napa Valley Vintners tasting last week - lots of nice Cali cabs you could have sunk your teeth into.
The NY Times did a tasting of Napa Cabernets under 50 last year.
http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2008/01/23/dining/20080123_TASTING_FEATURE.html#
Lenn,
Seems you are getting a lot of wine recomendations that are pushing the $50 limit (including from me in my prior post) so I thought it might make sense to mix in a few bargain wines that can still deliver.
I’ve been a fan for a while of Louis M. Martini for the food friendliness of their cabs…. when I’m having a burger or meatballs and want a cab, I usually reach for their’s.
I really like their Sonoma bottling for value (can be found for $10 if you shop around) and they also make a Napa bottling which can be had for around $20.
Even if you don’t pick this one, make sure to mix in some from the $15 - $30 range. I always love to see where the low priced offering show up in blind tastings.
Lenn and Dave,
Couldn’t agree more with Dave. Nice mix of lower-priced wines would be instructive. Find the value!
Dave - Do you have a single favorite CA Cab, regardless of price range?
Provenance is another nice option.
Uhmmm… I seem to recall watching you sample some CA wines in the past… and I believe there are pictures to prove this…
My favorite Napa Cabs come from the Medoc
Lenn, see if you can get some Charles Krug or Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee”; both under $30.