Castello di Borghese 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Estate
It seems that just about everyone interested in Long Island wine knows Castello di Borghese,
located on Route 48 in Cutchogue. You see, before the property was bought by Marco Borghese (an Italian prince) it was Hargrave Vineyard, where Alex and Louisa Hargrave founded the Long Island wine world back in 1973.
If you're visiting Long Island wine country, you really should stop by Borghese to get a taste of that history. Focus on the pinot noir and cabernet franc when you're there.
This Castello di Borghese 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Estate ($20) is a pale straw-yellow in the glass and while a little timid on the nose, offers candied lemon peel, honeyed citrus, jalapeno pepper and herbs aromas.
The medium-to-full bodied palate it citrusy, with more of that honey-fruity character up front with a field filled with herbs and jalapeno as well. The mid-palate is lush and fills the mouth with just barely enough acidity. The finish, which lingers nicely, is dry and features a lemon pith note.
Producer: Castello di Borghese
AVA: North Fork of Long ISland
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $20
Rating:
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)
I am in NY on wine business fairly often but haven’t made it out to Long Island in years.
Your blog alone will encourage me to rectify that this summer.
I love the wines at Castello di Borghese, especially the Cab Franc.
I’ve noticed a pattern with your tasting scale; there seem to be very few wines that break the 4 star mark. When translating this number to WS/Parker points, it would make it the magical 90. I know that there was some criticism over the 90 point mark a while back (http://lennthompson.typepad.com/lenndevours/2008/10/mommy-where-do.html), so why is it so difficult for NY wines to meet your 4 or 5 star mark?
Derrick: Thanks for the comment. I always enjoy talking about the “science” of ratings…because it’s simply not a science.
But anyway, the first thing I’d say is that the conversion of 4-stars to 90 points is, at best, an estimation. My best guess on the conversion really.
Beyond that, I do think that there are NY wines of excellent, world-class quality and in the wine world there is that magic 90-point barrier that matters in so many ways. I actually don’t know many 4-star (or higher) ratings that I’ve given since instituing the 5-star system, but there have been a number of them and I’m sure there will be more in the future.
It is true, however, that there has been a lull in top-notch wines in my tastings. Lots of good wines, but few that really jumped out at me. But, that will change soon I hope and I’m behind publishing some notes as well.