Winemaker Profile: Roman Roth, Wolffer Estate Vineyards

(This story appeared originally in the 5/20 issue of the Long Island Press) Roman Roth, general manager and winemaker at Wolffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack, started his winemaking career at an age when most of us are focused on getting our drivers licenses and, if we’re lucky, our first cars. But, it was a natural thing for the German native. "I was 16," he says. "My father was a cooper and a winemaker before starting a wine and beer merchant business. As a result, both of my parents were wine lovers and collectors. Wine always played a special part in…

Thoughts on the Supreme Court Ruling…from David Page of Shinn Estate Vineyards

"The Supreme Court ruling is a grand step in the right direction. Soon our loyal customers throughout the country will be able to enjoy the simplicity of picking up the phone or going online and ordering our wines direct without the burden of the antiquated three tier system. This will have a profound and positive effect on our ability to expand our marketplace beyond our tasting room." — David Page, Co-Owner, Shinn Estate Vineyards

Vinography is back…from Egypt

Mr. and Mrs. Vinography have returned from their three-week trip to Egypt. It is no surprise to me that Alder sampled several Egyptian wines…and apparently didn’t think much of most of them. Interestingly, lots of pinot blanc over there… Anyway, if you’re a Vinography fan…Alder is back and will likely return to his normal posting duties once his jet lag subsides.

Thoughts on the Supreme Court Ruling…from Trent Preszler of Bedell Cellars

There’s been a lot written about the U.S. Supreme Court’s 5-4 decision to deem the ban on direct wine shipping unconstitutional. So much has been written, in fact, that I decided not to write something in my Dan’s Papers column last week. But, because I did all the leg work for the story and interviewed/emailed with several Long Island winemakers and winery owners, I figured I’d not let that work go to waste. So, I figured I’d share some of their thoughts with you. Keep a look out over the next few days…I’ll post them individually to break them up…

Savoring the Flavor — 10 L.I. Can’t-Miss Wine Tasting Rooms

(This story appeared originally in the 5/20 issue of the Long Island Press) Long Island is home to 30-plus wineries, from tiny places making artisan fine wines to large producers (by LI standards) pumping out gallon after gallon of sweet-ish, almost jug-style wines. It can be tough for anyone heading east for the first time (or even the first five times) to know which tasting rooms to visit. Here are 10 LI tasting rooms you shouldn’t miss.

Winning Riesling at Peconic Bay Winery

(This column appeared originally in the 5/20 issue of Dan’s Papers) Peconic Bay Winery has always been a bit of an enigma to me. On one hand, they make sweetish blends that appeal to the masses and some hit-or-miss varietal reds. On the other, I love their Steel Fermented Chardonnay and their Riesling. I guess it’s smart to appeal to the widest audience possible, but I think it’s possible that serious wine drinkers get turned off by the plonk at the top of the tasting list. Last weekend, I tasted four recent and new releases, with positive results overall. Maybe…

Hamptons Wine Guide: What’s “Old” Is Good

(This article originally appeared in the 5/20 issue of the Long Island Press) In many ways, the Hamptons are all about the "new"—new restaurants, new superstars and new money. But not everything in the Hamptons is defined this way. Two of the top wineries on the East Coast can be found there, making wines that are much more Old World than New. Old World wines, typically those made in France, Italy and Spain, tend to be low-alcohol wines that are higher in acidity and feature more non-fruit flavors, like minerals, leather, wet stones or even tar. They also tend to…

In Defense of Merlot

If you haven’t seen it already, check out Michael Steinberger’ pro-Merlot (when done well of course) story for Slate.com titled Defending Merlot — It’s Not Always Bad. I drink merlot a lot…I admit it. But, almost never from California. As Steinberger says, they are often (usually? always?) overripe and almost never good values. I drink a lot of…drumroll please…Long Island merlot. I know, you’re floored right now and can’t believe it. Our cooler climate leads to a slow, steady ripening curve, mature tannins without losing fruit forwardness and leaving a touch of acidity. In the hands of our better winemakers…good…

2001 Wein & Sektgut Thielen Merlen Fettgarten Riesling Spatlese

I first tasted this wine on a cold, rainy Friday night, after a five-hour drive to Philadelphia that should have taken just a shade over three. Long Island traffic, the driving rains and, of course, the insanely packed New Jersey Turnpike tried to set the tone for a weekend in the City of Brotherly Love with friends…but when we arrived, Paul and Sara had this riesling waiting for us. And all was right in the world again. It was the perfect post-traumatic-driving trip elixer and we bought some the next day at Moore Brothers Wine. The Thielen family has been…

New York Wines Mentioned in the San Francisco Chronicle

W. Blake Gray, a staff writer for the San Francisco Chronicle did a write-up today on wines from back east (non-Cali)…including several from New York (and Long Island). It’s nice to see NY wines mentioned…but I think California wine arrogance reared its ugly head a bit in places. Richard Olsen-Harbich, winemaker and managing director at Raphael was interviewed for the piece. Take it from me, he is always great for a quote. I found his assessment of Long Island merlot particularly interesting…and I’ve inquired as to which ones were tasted. Not because I don’t agree (I’ve said before that I…