Take THAT California?
"Yes, California does produce some good merlot, though I could make a
case that better merlot is coming from Long Island than from
California, albeit in very small amounts."
So says New York Times wine writer and wine blogger Eric Asimov in this week’s column "Panned on Screen, Merlot Shrugs and Moves On" Of course, the rest of the column goes on to sing the praises of Washington State as America’s best source for merlot. I’m not as familiar with Washington merlots as I am Long Island ones (obviously) so I’m not going to comment on that.
But, that doesn’t mean I don’t have something to chime in with here.
First, I’ve become a big fan of Asimov’s over the past year or so — and not only because he seems to have "come around" to my way of thinking on the topic of Long Island wine. I think I have his blog, The Pour, to thank for my change in thinking. As is the case with any good blog, it offers a window into his true self. The more casual, engaging style he writes with there has really drawn me in.
Two — it is great to see such a qualified and well-respected wine columnist mentioning Long Island wines in such high regard…which leads me to my third and final point here.
Since this story ran Wednesday, I’ve gotten emails from at least five wineries (and countless others from readers and friends) talking about this quote. The overall sentiment seems to be "Take that California", but that is just ridiculous.
Does anyone really think that California merlot (in general) is that good to begin with? It certainly isn’t the grape they do best, or second best, or third best. Now, if someone were to say that Long Island cabernet sauvignon is better than California or Long Island zinfandel is better than California — THAT would mean something. Of course, no one grows or makes zin here, so that isn’t gonna happen.
What I’m trying to say is — yes, it’s great that Asimov thinks Long Island is making great merlot, I’ll never dispute that.
But, isn’t being better for merlot than California is a bit like being better at a hamburger than McDonald’s or better than Pizza Hut at pizza. California shouldn’t be the benchmark here — even though it is for many people.
Long Island can, does, and will continue to do much more than just best California at merlot. Trust me.
What I find strange about the California-craze is that it seems to be an obsession for those who want the US, aka California, to be the focused center of quality wine in the world. People who advocate California as the mecca of wine growing are sometimes unbending in this point-of-view.
In a good year, LI produces some good reds. Heck, in an absolutely ideal year the Finger Lakes can produce some good reds. These wines don’t have to compete with anyone; they are what they are.
California is and always will be the center of wine production in this country, so why the sensitivity? Cabernet Sauvignon is king, zinfadel is unique and fun and sometimes amazing, and the rest of the varieties have done pretty well despite some imperfect results. In the long run, it might be the case that more limited production regions like Oregon, Washington, and New York will result in a couple of stars or at least interesting and complex variations of the noble grapes.
Does anyone expect Bordeaux to grow every grape in France at its absolute best? No, it does well in only a few. How can California expect to be absolutely, 100% ideal for ever single varietal?
I’ll have to visit and learn more about Long Island wines, sounds like you’re the maven. Honestly, don’t know that I’ve tried them from LI-any recommendations for one that can be found readily (I’m in Boston area). I posted on a local Mass. sparkler for my first WBW, so I know the Northeast can produce good wines!
Lenn,
You need to establish a wine hotline for the holidays. I was picked to buy a case of white and a case of red wine for two holiday parties and I had no idea with what to get! Help!
I wound up with a Woodridge Pinot Grigo and a Little Penguin Merlot. I have no idea if these were the best choices under $10 a bottle. I hate asking advice in the liquor store, I think they only recommend what they make money on or isn’t selling.
I didn’t taste the pinot, but I really liked the merlot.(I picked the little penguin brand because they had an ad from the Wine Spectator there that said it was good.)
If you can’t do a hotline - can you do a post on suggested wines for the holidays? Maybe a list of best under $10 - best under $25 - and a list of wines that will impress?
Thanks bud!
Thanks fr
An East Coast competitor for the domestic Merlot tiara? Jeez, they can have it.
“It’s as good or better than a California Merlot!” One hears that generic comment or something like that every once in a while. Usually from somebody delightfully naive but earnest. Give it some time. When somebody says that about one of my Merlots I will often say something like- “Whoa! I hope you’re comparing it to one of the good ones! California makes more bad Merlot than any other jurisdiction in North America!”