What We Drank (July 7, 2009)
From beer to old Bordeaux, ice wine to disappointing wine, here's what we've been drinking.
Lenn Thompson: Shock Top Belgian White beer
I'm in Orlando right now with Nena and Jackson for a week (yes, a week) visiting all of the usual kid-friendly haunts — Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom, Sea World, etc. The wine selection in the nearest grocery store isn't much better than the "lists" at the restaurants we've been checking out. I know you don't want to hear about Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay or Blackstone Merlot anymore than I want to drink them, so instead I'll mention a beer that I've been drinking quite a bit at the resort pool — Shock Top Belgian White.
I know what you're thinking "Lenn, that's an Anheiser-Busch beer. It's as Belgian as Budweiser is German." That's true. I can't argue with that. But, when you're options on a 95-degree, 99% humidity day are that, Miller Light, Coors Light, etc. it's the best of all evils. As you can see, they serve it with a wedge of orange and I noticed last night that they actually squeeze said orange wedge into the beer.
It barely tastes like beer actually, but on a hot, muggy day — especially poolside — I've been enjoying it. So shoot me.
Evan Dawson: 1961 Chateau La Tour du Pin Figeac St.-Emilion
Wine lovers are famously generous with their prized bottles, but if you want to drink something historic, it helps to be lucky. Our friends who came into possession of this bottle were lucky and we were lucky enough to be in their company when they decided it was time to try it.
This was a half bottle so we were skeptical about its chances. On top of that, the owner of this bottle had no idea how it had been stored for more than 40 years. Anything was possible, but a fine vinegar was most likely. When the owner dropped his nose into his glass he let out an immediate and unrestrained, "Ohhhh!" Not only was this 1961 Bordeaux still alive, it was throttling along. I won't pretend to know how much life it still might have had, but suffice to say: plenty. And when we finally reached the last sips in our glasses it was a mark of how special this wine was to glance around the room and realize that no one wanted to finish it off. I could have smelled that wine all night. When we left that evening I briefly searched my mind for how I could repay the generosity, but it hit me: Not only would I fail to match the Figeac, but friends don't open special bottles only on condition of reciprocity. I can only hope this friendship ages as beautifully as that mysterious half-bottle that brought such excitement.
Bryan Calandrelli: 2008 Schulze Vineyards Block Three Ice Wine
During a holiday weekend filled with beer, mojitos, margaritas and champagne toasts, I managed to open a bottle or two of Niagara region wine for my friends in Boston. If there’s one local wine that begs for a special occasion it has to be ice wine, and no, I’m not talking about artificially frozen grapes. The wine has to be made from naturally frozen on the vine fruit and pressed outdoors while still frozen.
This Schulze Vineyards & Winery 2008 Block Three Ice Wine is a one of a kind wine as far as I know. You’d never guess the grape variety, thanks to its complex flavors of green apple, citrus, pineapple and pear. While it is sweet, it also retains an explosive acidity that you don’t generally find in most ice wines. It will make you rethink everything you think you know of the Catawba grape, that’s right, I said Catawba.
Jason Feulner: 2008 Gascon Malbec, Argentina
A blind grab in the cellar resulted in this "Where did this come from?" bottle of Malbec from Argentina. I assume it might have been brought to the house by a guest. I had high hopes, but the 2008 Gascon Malbec got off on the wrong foot with a synthetic enclosoure. It continued its mediocre impression with hints of blueberry and cocoa that did not overcome the flat, uninspired taste through the finish.
I was surprised to see that past vintages of this wine have scored well. It was okay, but really didn't have us going past the first glass.
Evan - I’ve had a few 61s in my day, I am thrilled for you that this one lived up to the lofty reputation. What a great experience to have. Just a quick note though, this Chateau (Latour du Pin Figeac) used to be part of the Figeac property many years ago, but shouldn’t be confused with Chat. Figeac, which holds an even loftier reputation as a Premier Grand Cru Classe. A Chat. Figeac ’61 might have been even better, who knows? But your bottle sounds just wonderful!
Jim - A sloppy and perhaps Freudian transcription error! Thanks for catching it. This bottle was not the exalted Chateau Figeac - though I can’t claim to know what that’s like. That does make it all the more remarkable that it survived so beautifully! Clearly a nod to the outstanding vintage.
Bryan,
On the contrary, Catawba is one of the few native varieties that historically has received a special asterix next to its name. In the 19th-Century, before vinifera was widely planted, some American wineries in Ohio and in the Finger Lakes produced great wines with Catawba (including a sparkler at Great Western in Hammondsport that won some critical acclaim in Europe).
While I’m sure it has its limitations, Catawba is always a varietal I’m willing to approach with a very open mind. Sounds like a very interesting ice wine!
Evan,
I would have LOVED to have tasted that. A merlot based half bottle still kicking ass almost a half century later. What other region builds wines like that?! That is why 1/3 of my cellar is right bank Bordeaux:)
Dan,
The quick research I’ve done indicates that this estate was not far from Cheval Blanc, and I think there’s some Cab Franc involved here, too. Which, for me, is all the better. But I confess that the older Bordeaux I’ve had bring a similar profile, and I’m not sure I could discern the Cab Franc from the Merlot at 50 years.
It’s always a treat to drink those bottles - I’m blessed, no doubt.
Perhaps you can help me… I’m always hesitant to buy Bordeaux for the purpose of laying it down because I’m not confident there is real value in the $40 and less category, and if I want to drop upwards of $100 I want to be confident it’s a profile I like. How do you approach it?
Bryan,
What’s the retail price on that wine? Love the way you had us guessing the varietal. Catawba is, ahem, not at all what I was expecting.
Evan,
While Bordeaux is home to some of the worlds most famous and expensive wines, it has also some of the greatest values. Im serious. The majority of my Bordeaux are under 40 bucks. The classified growths of the Medoc and the Grand Cru’s of St. Emillion can be quite pricey (but smart buyers can still find good values there). Pomerol can be just as bad (or worse) because of the garage style operations and limited juice. There are, however, appelations right around those famous appelations that crank out great wine at great prices. Especially in superior vintages (2000, 2003, 2005). Cote de castillon is one of my favorite sites and just east of St. Emillion. It shares the same soil, sun, etc. Many shrewd St. Emillon owners are actually investing in this region because of the huge potential. It produces excellent merlot and cab franc based wines that are affordable (20-25 bucks or less in most cases), drinkable, and ageworthy all at once. Cote de Franc and Fronsac are also great under valued regions. The left bank cru borgeois wines can also be good bang for the buck wines in great vintages if your craving a cooler climate cabernet sauv based wine. Plus, years that aren’t as heralded or that follow excellent vintages (2001, 2004, 2006 come to mind) the Bordelaise have a harder time selling the wines so prices drop sharply. You just have to be knowledgeable and keep your eyes open all the time…
Back when I had some cash to waste, I bought a bunch of 2000 and 2003 Bordeaux’s under the $30 mark. I relied on the opinion of shop owners who called these particular choices “good buys” and “hidden treasures.” My goal is to give them 10+ years and then start enjoying them, assuming that most are built to show just a little longevity from a good vintage. Maybe one or two might last longer, but I’ll be a millionaire by then, so whatever…
Dan,
Here is the extent of my current Bordeaux collection: ’02 Lascombes, ’05 Pouget, and ’05 Croix de Beaucaillou. Your advice is heavily appreciated!
Jason,
With your line of work I am stunned that you are not already a millionaire. I say the same thing about myself, only I don’t. Ever.
Jason and Dan are right on track. I love the value in the “off” vintages like 01 and 04. Plus I think 10 years is the right time to start drinking them.
I collect a little ditty called Chateau Beaumont ($15) which is delightful (Cab based though) and shows very well at 8,9, 10+ years old.
As a sommelier in the 90s I had occasion to drink a thousand clarets you would have called “old” at the time. (One time a flight of 53s, wow.) That 1961 of yours is the exception, not the rule.
Chances of getting greatness start to fall off rapidly past 15-20 years of age, and then precipitously at 30 years, even for the big name growths.
Jim,
Your experience matches my expectations for aged Bordeaux: I don’t expect a winner every time. I recently went to a friend’s house for dinner and another guest shocked everyone by showing up with two ’75s: A Gruaud Larose, which was beautiful, and a Beychevelle, which was toast. We were thrilled to go one for two!
Jim,
I have a case of the 05 Beaumont. Great example of how the little guys can make great wine in a year like 2005. Got it for 14 a bottle. I cracked into a bottle and it was peaking on day 3 and even 4 which gives you a little insight into how it will age.
Evan,
The Block Three Ice Wine retails for $49.95 for 375ml
Jason,
The Great Western Sparkler you mentioned was made by the same winemaker of this wine. He also does a sparkling wine with catawba as a base at Schulze as well. That one is called Cuvee Rosé Sparkling Wine.
Bryan,
The winemaker in question must be quite up there, as the European award-winning Great Western sparkler I mentioned dates back to 1875 or so… ( ;
BUT, of course I know that you are referring to the current version of Great Western’s catawba sparkler. It’s cool that he has learned to find expression with this unique grape!