What’s Gewurz That Could Happen? In the Finger Lakes, a Complement to Riesling
By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor
Photo courtesy of Keuka Spring Vineyards
In a previous life, Sheldrake Point Vineyard general manager Bob Madill was undoubtedly a drill sergeant. "Give me 20. Down. Now."
In this incarnation, he drills a regional philosophy into the minds of his colleagues and customers. "Aromatic. White. Wines." It carries the rhythmic punch of machine gun fire.
The challenge, of course, is that while grapes like gewurztraminer and gruner veltliner might perform at a world-class level in the Finger Lakes, most customers remain far more familiar with the ubiquitous merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Wine producers will have to change the drinking and purchasing habits to take riesling's siblings to the mainstream.
They hope it is already happening with gewurztraminer.
"The conditions are perfect here for gewurztraminer," says Mark Wiltberger, winemaker at Keuka Spring Vineyards on Keuka Lake, which produces 400 cases of the aromatic white annually. "I think it's possible to find characteristics in a glass of Finger Lakes gewurz that they might not see in other places."
Advocates like the Wiltberger family and Madill have tried to make progress with customers in the tasting room, but Wiltberger says most people are still unfamiliar with the variety when they stop by. "What is interesting is that customers don't know gewurztraminer, but they love it when they taste it," he says.
That's true when it's made well. For the uninitiated, gewurztraminer tends to bring strong doses of lychee, spices, and floral character. When it's flabby, it can be distressingly similar to potpourri air freshener or — the dreaded comparison — Grandma's perfume. When it's right, it can be a rocking and complex white, like the exotic fruits got loose and invaded the spice cupboard.
But even when tasters like it, they might not seek it out again.
"They can't pronounce it, so it's a challenge to get them to remember it," Wiltberger explains. But he notes optimistically, "More people ask for it now than in previous years."
Wiltberger says that at Keuka Spring, cooler years have brought out more pronounced fruit flavors. "The ideal conditions are cool weather and a long season, without too much rain near harvest," he explains. "2007 was, of course, warmer, and the wine was good. But in 2008 the cooler temperatures brought out very spectacular lychee flavors." He says 2009 — an almost exceptionally cool year — is showing similar character as it approaches bottling this spring.
Even with a blitz of consumer education, gewurztraminer is certain to remain a polarizing wine. The exotic profile so celebrated by some is simply strange to others. But given the plantings in the Finger Lakes — there is far more riesling than gewurztraminer — it's a wine that should sell out when it's made well.
Of course, a little more education can't hurt. If you're wondering, it's "guh-VURTZ" - rhymes with hurts, and the snappier versions deliver much more pleasure than pain.
Tonight, in conjunction with Finger Lakes Wine Country, the NYCR will co-host a Twitter tasting of four Finger Lakes gewurztraminers, including those from Keuka Spring and Sheldrake Point. You can either join us on Finger Lakes Wine Country Taste Live
page, follow the #FLXwine Twitter hashtag or, if you're in the Finger Lakes, join us at Red Newt Cellars and Bistro that evening to enjoy the wines too. $10 per person. Just email mmclaughlin@fingerlakeswinecountry.com if you would like to attend.
I love Gewurz. Sort of like Viognier and Torrontes, it’s a white wine that gets little-to-no love due to its lack of brand equity (for lack of a better description). Furthermore, I sense that wine growing regions like the Finger Lakes, Michigan, etc. struggle a bit with public perception because everyone expects wine growing regions to make Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cab. If they don’t (or don’t do it well), then those regions are written off. As an advocate for lesser-know grapes and lesser-known regions, swaying the public wine-drinking opinion is very tough. Yet, when folks taste a Gewurz, etc., they’re often wowed.
Give someone some Pacific Rim or Indian cuisine. Pair with some Gewurztraminer (maybe with a little RS if the food is spicy). Get them to remember how well they went together, and maybe- just maybe- progress is made.
Evan: I’ve never actually heard anyone, first-hand, brush off gewurz because they couldn’t pronounce it or remember it, but I’ve heard of it happening often enough that there must be at least some truth to it.
Are you at all surprised that wineries haven’t come up with a “new” name for this grape, to help target consumers put off by the name?
Look at Blaufrankisch. It’s the proper name for the grape, but many in the U.S. use Lemberger instead (which I’d argue is FAR worse, but that’s not the point here).
Lenn -
I view Mark Wiltberger’s point a bit differently. I think he’s saying that, for the casual drinker, they might try it and enjoy it at a tasting, but later they can’t remember the name so they don’t ask for it. That makes sense, I suppose. It’s not a grape you hear very often, and it’s easier to ask for Chardonnay or even Riesling.
Joe -
Very good points.
Evan: Maybe you’re right, but it still seems a bit inconsistent to use Lemberger but also Gewurztraminer.
As you know, this is a bet peeve of mine, so I’ll just let it go.
Really looking forward to tonight’s tasting — we’ve lined up four of the regions best for sure. Who else do you think is making gewurztraminer of note?
My favorite faux pronunciation of Gewurztraminer is “Gee What’s Her Name-er”. Interesting piece. I think Gewurz will always be polarizing, simply because its character is naturally bold.
I have been a Gewurz lover for years now, but I don’t typically like wines with too much “floral character”. I am attracted to the Gewurztraminers with light citrus and strong spice. I really think it is the spiciness that sets them apart from most other whites. Am I crazy? What exactly is the spice I am tasting by the way?
Scott - I tend to associate the spice sort of vaguely with exotic spices, indian spices, and some of the stronger spices on our traditional rack. It can vary with the wine, of course. But you’re not alone in feeling somewhat repelled by the strong floral character. Gewurz can walk a knife’s edge that way.