WTN: Comtesse Therese 70% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Cabernet Franc (North Fork)
Some of the wines that display Long Island’s true nature-terroir if
you will-are actually red blends, not the varietal merlots that are
often lauded as the region’s best. I know, shocking. I should be strung up for suggesting such a thing.
Of course not all blends are created equal. There are more than enough wines that fall into the
"meritage" catetory that seem more like a way to use up extra lots of lesser reds than anything else.
Theresa Dilworth, co-owner of and head winemaker for Comtesse
Therese isn’t making one of those. This blandly named but far-from-bland
blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc named for its component
grapes and their percentages: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet
Franc is plenty tasty and it captures "Long Islandness" well.
This is a soft,
slightly juicy blend that dodges the over-oaking that burdens some
local blends and many wines from the slightly cool 2004 vintage. Very
cabernet sauvignon aromas and flavors-blackberry, and black
currant-are accented by subtle cinnamon,
chocolate, smoke and violet notes. The tannins are soft and the
noticeable acidity makes this a terrific food wine. This is the kind of wine I like this time of year, just as the weather warms. It’s still a red wine, but it’s not heavy or brooding. It reminds of me the transition between winter and spring.
