By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor
Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich did some things differently during his first crush at Bedell Cellars in 2010. He brought his ambient yeast fermentations, of course, but he also made a couple blends by co-fermenting the grapes -- making his blending decisions from the outset.
Bedell Cellars 2010 Syrah ($50) is one of those wines, made with 90% syrah and 10% viognier in the model of the Northern Rhone.
That squirt of viognier is most apparently on a pretty, effusive nose that shows melon and honeysuckle aromas layered over fresh red berries, plums and a combination of earthy cumin and coriander. The distinct black pepper aromas found in most local syrah are but a mere shadow here -- there, but lurking in the background.
Earthy and savory, the somewhat juicy, medium-bodied palate delivers crunchy red fruit -- think red cherry and cranberry -- with a bit more pepper showing next to subtle floral qualities. The medium-length finish shows more of that earthy-spicy combination.
I find myself wanting perhaps a bit more structure, but there is enough acidity to frame the flavors and keep it all together.
Producer: Bedell Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Cases: 150
Price: $50*
(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)
$50? Enjoying Franck Balthazar Cornas for less... just saying.
Posted by: Cyclist | March 31, 2012 at 08:07 PM
This wine sounds great, but Bedell's price points are getting out of my league.
By the latest online price list, that puts 3 wines at $48 or more, another 5 between #35 - $40, and only 1 wine under $20 (the $18 rose').
It's too bad because I loved Rich's wines at Raphael which were affordable for regular consumption.
Posted by: dave foley | April 01, 2012 at 07:47 PM
I guess I understand about the price points but seriously, this isn't some bathtub hooch, this is all vinifera grape hand crafted artisanal wine. I can buy AOC Roquefort for cheaper than some locally produced raw milk blue cheeses, even with the Bush Era 300% luxury import tax imposed on it, but I still buy cheeses like shaker blue because they are unique and to support local business. These days a 12 pack of bud light costs $12, and people are arguing there is no Long Island wine at that price point? Well there aren't any long Island beers at that price point either, you cant find craft beer for less than $10 a six pack, and the best ones are pushing $14 and $20, why should it be any different for local wine, the cost of everything good is going up naturally due to inflation, and with gas pushing $5 a gallon this will only increase sooner than later. Yes you can have your Franck Balthazar for around $40, but I think the point is this is something new and different, something never done before locally, and is that extra $10 not worth trying it at least once? Isn't there anything to be said about spending $50 at a local farm, versus using paypal to send $40 electronically to some tangled web of distributors, importers and middle men that is vaguely connected to the origin somewhere in France, where the carbon footprint is like a landing strip on an aircraft carrier versus the open road on a leisurely weekend afternoon?
Posted by: Steve | April 02, 2012 at 11:03 AM
Wow, I really like Steve's line of thinking here. I wish everyone saw the intrinsic value in local produce in this way. Well said.
Posted by: jim silver | April 03, 2012 at 02:27 PM
I love local. I've got over 100 bottles of North Fork wine in my basement.
Thing is, nothing in my basement is new from Bedell in the last 5 years due to their price hikes. My stash is probably 70% comprised of wines from Channing Daughters, Raphael, and Shinn.
I've got 4 Bedell wines left in my basement. The newest is a 2005 Merlot that I got for $15.
I drink wine every night and would be broke spending $50+ per bottle; hell... I'm just about broke spending $15 per night.
I'm not saying that Bedell shouldn't produce high end wines.... I just lament the fact that they no longer have a presence in the under $20 range.
Posted by: dave foley | April 03, 2012 at 03:53 PM
Love Steve's viewpoint. Can't wait to pick up a bottle!
Posted by: Michael Gorton | April 04, 2012 at 10:27 PM