(This column appeared in the 12/17 edition of Dan’s Papers) When someone says “Long Island wine,” what comes to mind? Cheap, syrupy-sweet blends and blush? Over-priced plonk from large producers that is more hype than heaven? Well…you’re right, but not completely. While there are plenty of wines out east that fall into those two, less-than-complementary categories, there are almost as many that don’t. Visit the right wineries and try the right wines, and you’ll find delicious, bright Chardonnays that are far from California in style but not quite Burgundian either. Merlot, as you’ve probably heard, does exceptionally well in our…