(This column appeared in the 7/1/05 issue of Dan’s Papers)

Over the Barrel…With Lenn Thompson

Contrary to popular belief (okay, maybe just in my own
wine-induced fantasies), I don’t own Lenz Winery in Peconic. That would
be Lenn’s Winery anyway, even if the “z” would be a much more MTV-esque
spelling.

Lenz Winery is one of the North Fork’s most respected producers and
employs one of the regions most gifted and charismatic winemakers –
Eric Fry. If you’re at the Lenz tasting room and see a guy in overalls
with a long ponytail and beard, that’s Eric. Say hello and, if you’re
lucky, as my fiancé Nena and I have been, you’ll spend an afternoon
talking about and tasting different vintages of sparkling wine.

I’ve written several times before about Fry’s spectacular sparklers, so
we’ll not uncork that topic today. But know that Fry has a hand in much
of the Island’s best bubbly – both at Lenz and at the other wineries
that hire him to make their sparkling wines.

Last week, I had the pleasurable opportunity to sample several of Lenz
Winery’s current releases, and Fry’s ample talent shines through in
each.

His Lenz Winery 2003 Gewurztraminer ($20) continues a tradition of
mastery with this varietal. The nose is classic gewurz – lychee, rose
petals, slightly nutty and accented by faint mineral notes. Fermented
to complete bone-dryness, it’s crisp with bright acidity, extremely
stylish and offers intriguing spiciness. Gewurztraminer is often a
“love-it-or-hate-it” varietal. I love it and I love this one. It scored
an A in my tasting notes and goes nicely with classic Alsatian dishes
as well as spicy Thai food.

Just about every Long Island vineyard has Chardonnay planted in it, and
Lenz’s are no exception. In fact, Fry uses this grape to make three
different Chardonnays, two that are quite different and one that
combines the best of the other two.

The Lenz Winery 2003 White Label Chardonnay ($12) is one of the best
Chardonnay values on the East End. Fermented in stainless steel and
then aged in oak, its nose is light with apple and pear aromas accented
by vanilla cream and toasty hints. It displays an excellent balance
between fruit flavors, oak influence and crisp acidity. The texture is
sleek and the finish is nice. Serve as an aperitif.

Fry’s “top level” chardonnay, the Lenz Winery 2001 Gold Label
Chardonnay ($23), is at the other end of the chardonnay spectrum.
Fermented and aged in oak, it’s rich with a nose of buttered popcorn,
cream and caramel. Full bodied and tongue-coating, this complex white
would be reminiscent of a California chardonnay if it didn’t have
slightly balancing acidity. Instead, think Burgundy. I don’t
particularly like barrel-fermented Chardonnay with food, and this one
is no exception.

Between the White and Gold label wines (in both price and style), the
Lenz Winery 2001 Silver Label Chardonnay ($15) has a nose similar to
the Gold Label, but it’s lighter with butterscotch replacing the
caramel and a roasted apple fruit component. Fresher than the Gold
Label but more complex than the White, this is really the best of both
worlds. I graded it a B-plus, the highest of the three chardonnays.

Of course I’d be doing you, my readers, a disservice if I didn’t
mention Fry’s rich, complex reds. The Lenz Winery 2000 Estate Selection
Merlot ($23) is outstanding, and a good bargain. And the Lenz Winery
2000 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) is the single best Cabenert Sauvignon
I’ve tasted from the East Coast. Make sure you get the 2000, though –
the 1999 isn’t nearly as good.

For more information, call the winery at 734-6010 or visit www.lenzwine.com.