A couple months ago, I wrote about the "chardonnay shift" towards steel-raised wines — which I tend to prefer as opposed to the heavy, sometimes-flabby barrel fermented wines. I tasted three different chardonnays from Paumanok Vineyards yesterday for a story I was working on. One was 100% steel fermented — fresh, crisp and refereshing. It was what I expected. The other two were barrel fermented, and while both had nice acidity and avoided overuse of oak, one wine truly stood out. Fermented in new French oak barrels, Paumanok 2004 Grand Vintage Chardonnay ($30) actually has me questioning my own chardonnay…