Despite some inconsistency, Vineyard 48 just might be a winery on the rise. In general, I’ve found their white wines to be their best, particularly the sauvignon blanc and riesling, which are better and more affordable than many local offerings. But, I’ve found their reds much more inconsistent and disappointing. A nice cabernet franc here. A soft, but integrated meritage there. And some others with too-agressive and coarse tannins. 2005, a soon-to-be-classic vintage for Long Island, seems to have afforded winemaker Matthew Berenz, formerly of Pindar, a chance to work with super-ripe fruit. As a result, he’s made the neophyte…