It's true what they say. Sometimes the sum really is greater than the parts.
That
is certainly the case with the latest release from Palmer Vineyards, a
white blend that Spanish-born winemaker Miguel Martin has named "Select
Reserve."
Retailing for around $25, Palmer Vineyards' 2007 Select Reserve
is a blend of 45% chardonnay, 35% pinot blanc, 18% sauvignon blanc and
2% Gewürztraminer. Sometimes, when you taste blends like these, you
taste each component grape in a distinct way… almost like tasting
each in succession.
This wine isn't like that. Sure, you can
assume that the chardonnay is responsible for the ripe pear aromas and
flavors. And it's likely that the sweet herbs on the palate come from
the sauvignon blanc and the floral notes are the result of that squirt
of Gewürztraminer. But there's a oneness to this wine that raises the
individual pieces to create a greater whole. Each grape seems to always
be there throughout, but each also stepping up at different times along
the way.
Pale straw yellow, this nuanced blend has a nose redolent of honeydew melon, pears, and
honeysuckle with faint hints of hay and citrus zest emerging as it
warms a bit. In the mouth, the flavors closely match those aromas with
the addition of sweet herbs and subtle tropical fruit flavors that
remind me a guava but aren't quite. It's medium bodied with a juicy
burst up front and an almost-oily, glycerine mouthfeel on the
mid-palate and finish, which lingers just a bit and ends on a floral
spice note.
There is just enough acidity here, but more would
really lift this wine significantly. Still, this is an impressive first
vintage for this wine. It paired well with cumin-mustard glaze pork
chops.
White blends have been very successful for other wineries, so it
makes a lot of sense that Palmer is joining that fray. I expect to see
more wineries doing it going forward.
Grape(s): 45% chardonnay, 35% pinot blanc, 18% sauvignon blanc and 2% Gewürztraminer
Producer: Palmer Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $25
Rating: 
(3 out of 5 | Recommended) (Ratings Guide)