Roman Roth, winemaker at Wolffer Estate (along with Roanoke Vineyards and his own label, Grapes of Roth) makes some of my favorite Long Island chardonnay. His Wolffer Estate 2003 Estate Selection is one of my all-time favorites. Though a bit less refined than the stellar 2003 bottling, the current release — Wolffer Estate’s 2005 Estate Selection Chardonnay ($29) is still a fine example of barrel fermented chardonnay. Extremely toasty on the nose, oak and vanilla scents dominate with juicy-ripe pear aromas peeking through. Medium-to-full bodied with extremely lively acidity, the palate shows rich peach and pear fruit character with butterscotch,…