Boe_07viognierBy Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Alie Shaper, proprietor and winemaker for Brooklyn Oenology, doesn't own a vineyard. She buys her fruit from growers all over the North Fork. She doesn't own a winery either. She makes her wines at Premium Wine Group, Long Island's original custom-crush facility (a new one has opened since).

What she does have is an "urban winery" story, some great (removable) labels designed by Brooklyn artists, and a desire to make quality wines at fair prices.

The fruit for this Brooklyn Oenology 2007 Viognier ($18) was purchased from Martha Clara Vineyards, one of only a few who grow it. And, thankfully, there wasn't any oak used in the production of this wine.

The nose is fresh and ripe with aromas honeydew melon, peach and faintly tropical fruits, all accented by a subtle but noticeable hint of white flowers.

Lighter in body than you might expect, this refreshing white shows good acidity and understated leesy notes to go with more melon, peach and a little lemon. The finish is citrusy, but disappointingly short.

This would be a good pool-side sipper on a hot day, but I'm not sure that this wine convinces me that viognier has an important future as a varietal wine on Long Island.

Producer: Brooklyn Oenology
AVA: North Fork of Long ISland
ABV: 12.9%
Rating:  25
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)