By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief


Our Run for the Roses continues today with a reminder that — not all roses are still wines.

Roman Roth, winemaker at Wolffer Estate Vineyards in Sagaponack has a well-deserved reputation his table and dessert wines, but I don't hear a lot of talk about his sparkling program, which now includes Wolffer Estate 2006 Nobleese Oblige ($40), the second release of sparkling rose.

Made with 54% pinot noir and 46% chardonnay — all estate grown — this classy, classic bubbly shows toasty brioche aromas layered with peach, cherry-cranberry and subtle citrus.

The red fruit character is a bit more pronounced on a creamy palate enlivened with terrific acidity, while the stone fruit takes a step back. Golden apple emerges as the wine warms just a bit and is a bit more apparent on the medium-long citrusy palate.

Dry, but not overly so, this is a wine that should please lovers of Champagne and those who prefer fruitier wines as well. I wish a bit more of the yeasty-toast from the nose were on the palate though.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyards

Case Production: 250
Rating: 88

(Ratings Guide)