By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Ravines_08rieslingMorten Hallgren, winemaker at Ravines Wine Cellars, makes dry wines and dry riesling… and that's it.

That's unique in a region where just about every winery has at least two rieslings — "Dry" and "Semi-Dry" — and often more.

Having a portfolio without at least one sweeter wine — 1% residual sugar is as high as it gets at Ravines — is somewhat risky in a region visited by throngs of sweet wine lovers. Most wineries stock at least one or two wines "for the masses" but Morten and his wife Lisa seem to be doing just fine making the wines they believe in.

Top-to-bottom it's one of the best lineups in the Finger Lakes.

Citrusy and floral, the bright nose on Ravines Wine Cellars 2008 Dry Riesling ($17) shows intense lime, citrus blossom and green apple aromas with subtle peach character (that emerges as the wine warms a bit) and a stony vein beneath.

Focused and intricate, the palate is — of course — dry (.3% RS) with more lime, Granny Smith apple, floral and slate flavors that are at once delicate and intense. The finish is long an all about the stony slate character with just a little citrus zest.

Producer: Ravines Wine

AVA: Finger Lakes

ABV: 12.5%

RS: .3%

Case Production: 1,200

Price: $17*

Rating: 90

(*Ratings Guide)