We only have three contirbutions this week, but — as always — some interesting libations have filled the glasses of the New York Cork Report editors and contributors.
Evan Dawson: Multi-year semi-dry riesling flight at Red Newt Bistro
Red Newt Bistro offers a nice range of wine flights, with three
wines per flight and generous pours of each.
On a recent visit I
chose a flight that included the Sheldrake Point 2006 Riesling, the Red
Newt 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 2008 Red Newt Circle Riesling.
The Sheldrake was simply explosive. Rich, long, and hugely
aromatic, my one concern was its relatively advanced aging for a wine
this young. The petrol notes are showing up already, and perhaps our
science editor can address whether this is expected or even a potential
result of storage (which I doubt).
Either way, it's a big, luscious
is all about context, and in this lineup, the Circle Riesling came off
as snappy and austere. At 3.2 RS!
and Deb Whiting give a lot of thought to constructing an all-local wine
list, and it shows. I'm looking forward to a flight of 2004 dry
riesling on the next visit.
Ralph DiGennaro: Barone Fini 2009 Pinot Grigio Alto Adige
This is a zesty, unusually concentrated pinot grigio from the much heralded high altitude
Trentinto Alto Adige region of northern Italy by Barone Fini, a relative newcomer among
Italian producers of this often maligned varietal.
Wild flowers, herbs and green apple aromas rise up from the glass, not unlike a fine Viognier.
On the palate are mineral and allspice notes with an undercurrent of raw cashews. Medium to full-bodied, it finishes long and satisfying, with hints of ripe pear and pronounced lemon curd flavors.
Simple yet delicious, the grapes are all handpicked, according to owner Giovanni Bonmartini-
Fini, whose major objective is to produce wines meant to be enjoyed with food.
I paired it with peppered sashimi tuna barely seared on the outside–the acidity of the wine was
a perfect counterpoint to the heat of the black pepper and saltiness of a soy ginger sauce
that I used as a dipping sauce.
Bonmartini-Fini’s wines (he also produces a Pinot Grigio Valdadige) have changed my attitude about pinot grigio. 6,000 cases made.
Over the weekend our neighbors at the Seneca Lodge in Watkins Glenn
brought out a few bottles of Mumm Cordon Rouge 1966 to celebrate a day of wine tasting.
Since I don¹t have much experience with aged champagnes I was more
impressed with the year then the producer or rarity of these wines. As quickly as
the excitement built up to taste them, it went away with a fizzle as the
corks showed major signs of failure.
I was the first to try and was happy that there was still some bubbles
but the wine had gone slightly sour and was generously oxidized. It was a
big letdown for the owners but given the condition of the cork, I was
impressed that it was still drinkable.
I think it could have passed a sour beer brewed with brett and if I paid
for the wine myself I would have drank the whole bottle.