Sherwood_05bdb By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

With the opening of their second (and now main) tasting room on Main Road in Jamesport, Sherwood House Vineyards is starting to get more of the attention it deserves.

Yes, owners Charles and  Barbara Smithen still have their rustic little vineyard-side tasting shed between Route 48 and Oregon Road, but that's an un-heated and therefore seasonal location.

The wines are all made by Frenchman Gilles Martin, who also makes wines for Bouke, Sparkling Pointe and the non-pinot wines for McCall Wines.

Made with estate-grown chardonnay, the House of Sherwood 2005 Blanc de Blanc ($37) offers intense bisquity aromas with those of apples, straw, honey and spicy lees.

Anything but delicate, the palate is filled with roasted tree fruit — apple and pear — flavors with nice yeasty dough notes and spice. Dry but nicely balanced, this sparkler delivers a long finish with apple skin character.

I liked 2004 for a bit more, but this is still a winner.

Producer: Sherwood House Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.6%
Price: $37*
Rating: 87

(*Ratings Guide)