By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor
Tom and Susan Higgins, owners of Heart & Hands Wine Company on the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake, have worked tirelessly to build a reputation for making what may be New York's best pinot noirs. It's clear that pinot is their passion and it shows in the bottle and throughout their entire operation.
But, with wines like Heart & Hands Winery 2009 Reserve Riesling ($29) Tom, who makes the wines, proves that he's not a one-trick pinot pony. This is the Finger Lakes after all, where riesling rules and it seems silly not to make riesling when such high quality raw materials are available.
The nose is expressive and concentrated, filled with lime, pear, starfruit, fig and citrus blossom aromas.
Intense and concentrated fruit flavors — apple, graprefruit and lime — are delivered on a nimble, almost feathery palate with bright, well-integrated acidity that drives it forward and into a long, citrusy dry finish.
2009 was a tremendous year for riesling in the Finger Lakes, and this is one of the best I've tasted from the vintage.
(4 out of 5 | Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)