Few expect a “jammy” component in Long Island wines, but the hot, dry 2007 vintage has led to a handful of wines with a decidedly jammy mid-palate. This wine, Macari Vineyards 2007 Reserve Merlot ($36) actually leans a bit in a different direction — away from sweet fruit and into the savory. With a nose that shows plum, cherry and raspberry qualities, an umami edge that is almost meaty is a welcome addition along with notes of dried herbs, clove, cinnamon and earth. Medium bodied and even restrained compared to many ‘reserve’ wines from the vintage, a bit of vanilla…

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