With aromas of red cherries, cherry cough medicine and toasty, somewhat raw oak, the nose on the Heron Hill Winery 2010 Reserve Blaufrankisch ($40) only shows subtle hints of the peppery spice one typically expects with this variety.

Medium bodied with drying wood tannins and a bit too much oak character (which covers up some of the fruit and complexity) the palate does show more of that varietal black pepper spice. The finish is medium-length with red cherry, raspberries and vanilla oak.

On day two, it showed a bit more fruit on the palate, but not enough to balance overall. One of the higher-priced blaus in the state, it ultimately under-performs.

Producer: Heron Hill Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 13%
RS: .2%
TA: 5.3 g/l
pH: 3.56
Production: 84 cases
Price: $40*

(2 out of 5, Average)