You don’t see a lot of tocai friulano on the east coast — or even in the U.S. — but it seems well suited to Channing Daughters Winery’s home vineyard in Bridgehampton, NY. They make a second version from fruit grown on the North Fork, but I preferred the Sylvanus Vineyard bottling in a tasting last week.
As with many of New York’s top white wines, texture and mouthfeel are what set Channing Daughters Winery 2011 “Sylvanus Vineyard” Tocai Friulano ($24) apart. Whole cluster pressed and fermented in both stainless steel (68%) and old oak (32%), the nose is pretty and both fruity and floral with flavors of green apple, lemony citrus, blanched almond and citrus blossom with a distinct saline vein.
Medium-bodied, round and lightly weighty on the mid-palate, there is also a crunchiness to the acidity, creating a wonderful tension that demands another sip. Apple and floral flavors linger on a delicate, but long, finish.
Don’t drink this too cold — you’ll miss out on some of the delicate floral, nutty and mineral notes.