In the three-plus years since Paul and Shannon Brock bought and took over Silver Thread Vineyard, they’ve quickly pushed the label’s reputation forward. Paul makes wines in a clean, focused style that is well suited to the region and to the vineyards the couple buys fruit from.

Silver Thread Vineyard 2013 Dry Riesling ($18) is made using fruit from a variety of sources — 32% was estate grown fruit on Seneca Lakes, while 33% came from Gridley Bluff Point Vineyard (Keuka Lake), 30% from Doyle East Seneca Vineyard (Seneca Lake) and 5% Randolph O’Neill Vineyard (Cayuga Lake).

Crisp and clean, the nose is dominated by aromas of Bosc pear pulp, lemon-lime, faint citrus blossom and blanched almond.

Gritty pear, juicy lemon-lime citrus flavors  lead a lean-but-not-austere palate that accented by golden raisins and dried papaya. It’s juicy and mouth-watering, with good verve , and a distinct slate note toward the end of a long, dry finish.

Producer: Silver Thread Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.3%
Production: 770 cases
Price: $18 (sample)

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)