I’ll tell you about my favorite of the Lenz Winery chardonnays tomorrow, but today let’s focus on one that I didn’t like as much. Actually, I’ve never cared for winemaker Eric Fry’s Gold Label Chardonnay much, and his 2005 release ($20) is no different. It’s definitely made in the California style that is – thankfully – losing popularity among most wine drinkers. It’s medium-dark gold in the glass with a lot of oak on the nose, coming across with toasted marshmallow, sweet oak, and faint caramel aromas. There’s also some roasted apple there, but it’s subservient to the domineering oak.…

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