Checking in on a Finger Lakes Legend: Good News if You Still Own Anthony Road 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling
It’s the rare wine that has everything lined up in its favor — stellar vintage, top producer, affordable. The Anthony Road Wine Company 2008 Semi-Dry Riesling was available for around $14 or $15 when it was released in 2009. Then it won the Governor’s Cup award, and that availability dried up, but to ARWC’s credit, the price did not go up.
But here’s the one problem — so many Finger Lakes wines never see a year in the bottle, let alone two or three or five. The reviews came early and often for this Anthony Road wine, and consumers knew it was something special. But there isn’t much willpower to go around in wine buying circles, so you won’t find much of this wine anymore.
I’m fortunate to have more than half a case left, and this weekend we drank a bottle.
If you still own this wine, you have something truly outstanding.
Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt speaks often about the need for riesling to have “flesh on its bones.” He’s referring to a richness of fruit to balance the brisk acidity so common in Finger Lakes whites. This wine might be his finest example yet.
It is extremely youthful, without any whiff of petrol, no signs of any troublesome aging. However, the wine has broadened out considerably. Typically I don’t write tasting notes, and I tend to doubt readers care to see mine. But in this case, I share my notes with you only because I want to stress the complexity that this wine has. A far cry from the usual two or (maybe) three descriptors, this wine is loaded:
Mouth of key lime pie, anise, fresh-cut apples, dried apricot
Tremendous texture and layering
Very long”
This wine was released right around the time when Finger Lakes producers began holding a bit more of their wines back. In the past, Anthony Road saved just about nothing. There’s a chance you’ll find this wine on occasion, and I hope you do. So often a wine of pedigree will disappoint. Not this one.
What are you thinking — understanding that there’s no way to actually know — about this wines longer-term longevity?
I have a handful of bottles left (that I’ve actually tucked into a crawlspace area in my basement so I don’t drink through them too quickly).
Fellows, maybe you remember this tasting as noted in the NYCR about 3 years ago? ARV was one of the favorites…
http://newyorkcorkreport.com/finger-lakes-riesling-tasteny-results/
A memory like a steel trap, you have. Nice.
As my learning curve accelerates after 3 years moving to the FLX, this post re-enforces what I’ve experienced- well crafted wines from knowledgeable wine makers - truly complex wines that demand respect and time. These wines, if given proper time to store and then time to blossom when opened, can hold their own with ANY region in the wine making world. It’s taken time on my part to overcome my prejudices but boy was it worth it. Pinot, Riesling, Cab Franc are now welcome in my cellar with increasing numbers. I now purchase in case lots from favorite producers and look forward to how they evolve and because some production is small I’ll have it!
What Stan said.
I was just thinking about this wine the other day… funny that this post appeared. I have been hanging on to a few bottles of it, as well, and maybe will open one on Thanksgiving now that Evan has piqued my interest. 2008 was such a distinctive vintage in the FLX-I loved it. Interestingly, Steve Shaw just released his 2008 Dry Riesling (under screw cap). I had the chance to try it recently and it was like opening a time capsule to that vintage. For those without the willpower to cellar your wines, I suggest you seek out this one!
What will be the Last Vintages that Johannes Reinhardt will be a part of? I traveled from Cleveland up to Seneca Lake in Sept. and fell in Love with this Winery. i was told at that time he was Starting a Winery of his own in the same Region of the Western SIde.
Interesting look back on a very good wine Evan. I think the quality of this AR wine speaks to the fact that we do have a special region here. I also see that the best of our NYS wines will prove to be very good after years in the bottle.
Shannon, congratulations for your nice Silver Thread wines and I am glad that you enjoyed our new Riesling.