New York Cork Report

Adventures in Home Winemaking: Finger Lakes Oak

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor

Yesterday I bottled a Niagara Escarpment 2010 cabernet sauvignon made with New York oak -- specifically, oak from the Cayuga Lake area of the Finger Lakes. I'm psyched about the incorporation of one more local ingredient into my wine, and since my source is supplying Finger Lakes oak to both commercial wineries and home winemakers with great success, I thought I'd report on my own experience.

Shortly after the 2010 harvest I made a trip to Sheldrake Point Vineyards, where I had a wonderful tasting and conversation with winemaker Dave Breeden. When I asked about the oak treatment on his reds, Breeden mentioned Peter DeVivi, a Waterloo-based miller with a custom flooring company who has been making oak staves, called "Wine Stix," (pictured above) with local oak to combine the extractive benefits of short-grain tools like cubes and chips with the subtle effects of long-grain barrel wood over time. Offered in four toast levels and cut in a spiral pattern, Wine Stix are incredibly cheap: one stick treats 30 gallons of wine and can be used for two vintages.

DeVivi (pictured right) is an awesome guy to hang out with: ingenuous, forward-thinking, and creative, and a home winemaker himself with a passion for local ingredients and sustainable methods.

He showed me all around his mill and explained that the the cost benefit and waste minimization that Wine Stix offer is undeniable. I strongly encourage New York home winemakers to seek him out, as he's incredibly helpful with questions and his products are value-based, easy to use, and, as I've discovered, great quality.

My cabernet sauvignon was already a bit of a mad scientist operation: picked a month early, crushed by a three-person foot stomp, fermented in a beer cooler, and inundated with stems until about a week into fermentation when I got fed up with tearing my hands apart punching it down and fished the stems out one by one while listening to Lady Gaga. It's the perfect canvas for experimentation, and with its big structure and firm concentration I suspected it could stand up to American oak. I used a medium-plus-toast stave, which I had to cut to 5" since my wine was in a 3-gallon carboy. (Cutting isn't necessary; DeVivi can customize sizes and toasts to suit clients' needs.)

As a New York Cork Report writer I am by definition allergic to noticeable oak in finished wine, so I left the stave in the carboy for only a month instead of the recommended three. After several months of malolactic and aging in the carboy, I bottled last night.

The wine has aggressive fruit and tannin, but the oak presence is simply lovely: barely there, but lending just a hint of rustic, woodsy character that isn't powdery or dusty but rather smooth and extremely delicate. I am looking forward to watching this wine develop over the next several months in bottle, and I will definitely be using the Wine Stix again this vintage. I would like to try them on merlot this year and keep the stick in a bit longer; Escarpment Merlot shows lovely structure and a finessed, velvety body and I think the flavors of the New York oak will match nicely.

To check out Peter DeVivi's Wine Stix for yourself, call 315-246-8266.

Wine In Grocery Stores? The Problem Is the Bureaucratic Mess of a Process

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

New York's agricultural commissioner can learn something from Danny Wegman when it comes to being direct about an issue.

At a news conference on Tuesday, Wegman was willing to be honest about what will happen if New York grocery stores are permitted to sell wine: He'll make more money and some liquor stores will close.

"Some liquor store operators say they will lose their jobs. I'm sure that's true, if they don't do a good job,” Wegman said as reported by 13 WHAM-TV in Rochester. He said that hundreds of the state’s liquor stores have already gone out of business. “I think they'll go out anyway. That's what I'm saying, because it's a competitive business even with the laws the way they are.”

And then he said this about his desire to make more money: "New York State is not growing, so any opportunity for growth helps Wegmans as a business.”

His honesty was refreshing, especially when compared to New York's ag commissioner who was in Syracuse on Monday touting a new government campaign to bring wine into grocery stores. The official name of the campaign is "Convenience is Choice: Bring Home the Wine." The official line is that New York produces nearly 200 million bottles of wine but that it can only be sold in roughly 2,500 retail outlets. By selling wine in grocery stores, the government claims, the local wine industry will grow by 20 percent.

As someone who has analyzed policy and proposals, I keep waiting for more data to support that 20 percent claim.

We all know what the government is after: more tax revenue. And to their credit, government leaders have acknowledged that this plan would attract millions of dollars. But every time they seem to gravitate toward an honest explanation -- short-term tax revenues -- they fall back to a position of support for the New York wine industry that rings a bit hollow.

Why is that? Well, the superficial market analysis put forth by the state is so blissfully ignorant of anything approaching price points, consumer choice and distribution realities that it's not even worth de-constructing. Every conversation about the impact on New York state wine ought to include these points, but instead we get platitudes that come off as half-hearted.

Needless to say, we all know that the issue is extremely complex because wine marketing and consumption is a complex business.

Albany's appeal to support New York wines plays as a PR move because we continue to wait for the substance to back up their claims. And if the prime motive is taxation, is it possible that industry growth is also a motivation?

The track record is not good.

New York state justifies tax increases by claiming an expertise in industrial development when there is overwhelming evidence that the state is extremely destructive of native industries. No one wants to see deleterious effects on the New York wine industry, but it's hard to evaluate the potential future results when the state is focused so strongly on a short-term budget solution.

The executive branch spends our tax dollars to promote these proposals. We don't have current figures for how much they've spent on the PR push for this issue, but it's not free.

And yet despite all this banter there could very well be a long-term benefit to New York wineries by allowing grocery store sales. We simply can't accurately assess that claim because the state has offered nothing more than the same spin that follows many other short-term revenue boosting proposals.

If there is an answer to that question, it probably lies in a real survey among wineries and distributors, a task that the state has not bothered to approach.

Wine may or may not belong in New York grocery stores. Thanks to Albany, analysis of real outcomes has taken a back seat to politics as usual.

Editor's Note: In addition to being a wine lover, Jason earned a Master's Degree in Public Administration from the Maxwell School at Syracuse University and has worked in economic development and in policy analysis for political campaigns.

An Introduction to Long Island Merlot

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Despite my relationship to Lenn and this blog, my encounters with Long Island wine have been ad hoc: a wine here, and a wine there, but never a firm introduction to what the region has to offer. With this in mind, I jumped at the chance the other day to attend a Long Island Merlot dinner at the New York Wine and Culinary Center in Canandaigua.

The event was held in cooperation with the Long Island Merlot Alliance, an organization dedicated to the research and promotion of quality merlot production within the Long Island wine community. The Merlot Alliance currently has seven member wineries and hopes to attract more since most if not all Long Island wineries produce merlot.

 This event was my first wine dinner at the Wine and Culinary Center, and it was tremendous experience. Head chef Carlo Peretti (pictured at right) is a delightful host and his display cooking was engaging and fun.

Our courses consisted of Montauk Scallops with Beet Iced Mignonette, Long Island Duck Breast with Braised Apple and Cabbage Slaw, Pan Roasted New York State Bison Fillet, and for dessert a Raspberry Chocolate Pot de Creme.

All of the food was excellent.

At a typical dinner I would have been satisfied with the scallops, duck, or bison by themselves, but in this case I reveled in all three. In addition, the chef paired these dishes nicely with the lineup of Long Island merlot.

Clovis Point winemaker John Leo (picutred at right) provided tasting commentary with some support from Donnell Brown, executive director of the Merlot Alliance. Overall, the lineup of wines offered was extremely interesting. It consisted of no outright show-stoppers but each wine provided some inherent quality and a few stood out from the rest.

Within the group, the 2004 Clovis Point excelled for being very much a balance of the various styles presented, a middle-of-the-pack wine not in quality but in terms of it emphasis on fruit vs. oak, the straight merlot flavor vs. other blended varietals.

The Merliance 2006 merlot, a 100% merlot blend of the merlot lots of the LIMA member wineries, stood in contrast to the rest with its fruit-forward, simple taste highlighting the qualities of merlot as its own grape. In a completely different style to the Merliance, the 2004 Sherwood House utilized a Bordeaux-style blend to create a subtle, earthy wine balanced with the flavors of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot.

One of the tasting treats offered by Pellegrini was their 1997 merlot, a wine that was probably just past its peak but nonetheless had all the beautiful elements of a well-aged, quality red, providing bright fruit with dusky flavors and textures.

A 2007 McCall Vineyard merlot was still in bottle shock, yet the warm vintage seemed apparent and this wine seems ready to expand its profile once it has a little more time in the bottle.

With dessert we tried a 2007 Raphael Merlot Port, a wine that didn't blow me away but provided for a lovely after-dinner drink. The idea of a merlot port-style wine intrigues me and I think the flavors work to some degree--I hope to taste such a wine again.

I left the wine dinner with two main conclusions: Namely, wine dinners at the Culinary Center come highly recommended (they hold them very often, usually with winery-specific themes), and Long Island merlot provides a diverse lineup of styles. If this small lineup is any indication, merlot can find expression in a variety of ways within Long Island. The merlot grape seems to provide an excellent anchor in terms of defining Long Island reds and the terroir that produces them.

Love and Wine

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I was a man on a mission.

On the morning of Friday, November 13 I left my driveway in Syracuse, New York at 7:30 a.m. and headed west. My goal? To find a bottle of wine vinted before I was born.

This adventure was not so much the product of a whim as procrastination. The 13th of November was my wife's and my 5-year wedding anniversary, and I had decided a few days prior that this yet-to-be-discovered bottle of wine was to be the special treat.

For each anniversary, Kathleen and I do something we've never done before, albeit something cute and simple. On our first anniversary we stayed in a bed and breakfast. For our second we took a cooking class.

The old wine idea had been on a list of possibilities for some time. Kathleen was born in 1981, I in 1980, so a bottle from 1979 or a prior year was in order. The oldest wine I had ever consumed was a 1985 Dr. Frank's riesling.

The challenge: Find a 30-year-old bottle of wine for less than $150.

I had called every Syracuse wine shop with no luck. The Syracuse region is devoid of wine establishments with old collections for sale. I reached out to Evan, the New York Cork Report's purveyor of crazy old wines, and he suggested that I hit up Century Pittsford Wines in Rochester. I called ahead and they assured me that they would have something in stock.

On the morning in question, I burst through the door of Century at 9:07 a.m., seven minutes after they opened, and inquired about their selection of 30-year-old or older wines in my price range. Despite what had to be the unexpected nature of this odd request at such an early hour, Century's wine expert on duty brought me back to the climate-controlled room. He thought there might be at least a wine or two that would match my query.

We found nearly 15 specimens of Bordeaux and Burgundy that were 30 years or older and priced around $150. The selection of older wines at Century is exemplary and I could not recommend the store or its courteous staff enough for those looking for a superior wine shopping experience.

On the advice of the knowledgeable wine expert I settled on a bottle of Burgundy, a 1978 Remoissenet Père et Fils Volnay-Clos des Chênes. The bottle came to $145 with tax. I walked out of the store, stashed the wine in the car, and drove east so I could get to work in Syracuse before noon.

I unveiled the Volnay-Clos des Chênes that evening and it was a delight. The nose of ash and earth brought forth layered flavors of dark cherry, cocoa, tobacco, and dried chili peppers with a brilliant mouthfeel and a long, long finish. I can say without qualification that this Burgundy was one of the best wines I have ever consumed. Kathleen felt very much the same way about this incredible wine.

I cannot afford to drink like this very often, but in this case it was more than worth it. I've been a very lucky man for five years running, and I am grateful that I have a wife who is excited to share these simple pleasures that make life together so much fun. 

So, here's a toast to love and wine, a pairing that stands above all others.

A Little Harvest Reflection

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Is it time to officially call the end of harvest? Little Elizabeth (my daughter) seems to think so. Yum!

There is something inherent in the nature of the harvest that lends itself to youthful reward, a sense that we all long for although the vast majority of us no longer experience a real harvest as did our ancestors. It's a time to enjoy the fruits of our labor, to renew our sense of respect for the land, and then bunker down for a nice long winter nap with family and friends.

Falls seems comforting, yet it is full of possibilities and excitement for what lies ahead and for what the Spring will bring.

These romantic thoughts are appealing, but I always remind myself that in this modern age the strength of the harvest does not signify whether or not we will have enough to eat this winter. The stakes are very low but the bounty stirs the imagination nonetheless. Let us all be thankful for that.

The sweet, sweet harvest heralds another year of prosperity.

Finger Lakes Distilling: A Spirited Addition to Finger Lakes Wine Country

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I've always been a beer and wine guy. My liquor cabinet at home is a bit on the pathetic side. What I'm saying is that if you prefer only mixed drinks, avoid my invitations.

So, when I recently decided to visit the new distillery on Seneca Lake, I knew that I might not be the judge of spirits. But, Finger Lakes Distilling makes appreciation of spirits by the liquor-challenged extremely easy.

The brand-new tasting room is a marvel and one of the nicest spaces I've seen in the Finger Lakes. It features a wide open room with natural lighting, an illuminated, glass-looking boat hanging from the ceiling, and a long tasting counter. Giant windows frame the upper reaches of the recitification tower of the grand copper still that sits below the tasting room, complimented by an expansive view of the hills and lake beyond.

The brainchild of Brian McKenzie (pictured at right), an Elmira native, Finger Lakes Distilling is a craft distillery that churns out only a small fraction of the volume of a more traditional operation. McKenzie feels that small distilleries can focus on creating unique flavors by sourcing specific desired flavor components. In the case of Finger Lakes Distilling, anything that can be acquired locally, whether it be grapes or corn, is harvested from the Finger Lakes region.

And yes, grapes do enter into the equation. Distilling requires the conversion of glucose into alcohol through fermentation, and neutral spirits such as vodka can just as easily be made from grapes as grain or potatoes. In fact, the vodka offered at Finger Lakes Distilling retains some grape flavor which comes across well.

The vodka-based gin is fantastic, with a citrus-like focus that is razor sharp.

There are also a series of flavorful liqueurs for those who like to approach spirits from the sweeter side. My absolute favorite was the Cassis, although the Maplejack, an apple brandy sweetened with local maple syrup, is definitely the most unique and a real triumph of flavors.

The master distiller at Finger Lakes Distilling is Thomas McKenzie, who is of no relation to Brian. Thomas is a native of Alabama and a distiller by family tradition. He is comfortable using all kinds of ingredients in his creations since, in various other positions, he has gained experience as a brewer and winemaker as well. Brian and Thomas met a distiller's conference down South a few years ago and Brian convinced Thomas to take the distilling helm in a region that, so far, has not been on the map for anything but wine.

Like most any distiller, Thomas is most keen on his whiskeys, and hits just-released rye whiskey is very smooth and enjoyable. It has layers of complex flavors, with just a touch of mild spice on a buttery, almost caramel-like taste.

While I cannot claim a deep knowledge of spirits, I found the offerings at Finger Lakes Distilling approachable and very satisfying. I do have a strong familiarity with Finger Lakes operations, however, and I must commend Finger Lakes Distilling for creating a start-up that has such a beautiful facility, tasting room, and branding. I could hardly believe that the operation had been open for less than a year, much less conceived less than three years ago. It's come a long way in a short amount of time.

I will always be a wine guy, but I'm impressed with Finger Lakes Distilling and would recommend it to anyone, whether or not your liquor cabinet is as sparsely stocked as my own.

Technological Innovations at Red Tail Ridge

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Standing in Red Tail Ridge Winery's new facility recently, it occurred to me: The entire geothermal machine area looks like something out of a Star Wars movie. Can it get any cooler (or hotter) than that?

I stopped by Red Tail Ridge on Seneca Lake the other day with the primary goal of getting a harvest report. I was also excited about the winery's new production facility, which I assumed would have some interesting features.

The facility and its winemaking innovations blew my mind.

While I knew that owners Mike Schnelle and Nancy Irelan had built an environmentally conscious facility that is eligible for LEED certification, I had no idea that the building houses a thermal system that is incorporated into various elements of winemaking. By tapping into natural geothermal energy, the new production facility not only maintains a constant, energy-efficient temperature in general, but it also regulates the temperature of the tanks during fermentation.

 Unlike most wineries in the Finger Lakes, the tank temperatures are not measured and reported manually, but through a computer screen, utilizing software specially designed for Red Tail Ridge.

"I can control the tank temperatures remotely," winemaker Nancy Irelan (at right) tells me. "When all the bugs are worked out, I could in theory monitor the temperatures from my kitchen table at home."

And while Nancy is hardly passive enough to rely heavily on remote control, the sheer efficiency of the system speaks to her dedication to environmentalism and sustainability. To be patient enough to commission a design for such a thermal contorl system is no easy or inexpensive task, which is indicated by the complex mechanics visible in the control-room area on the second floor of the facility. The geothermal system uses a mixture of extreme heat and extreme cold to regulate temperature on a constant basis.

With only a few Finger Lakes vintages in her portfolio thus far, the critics are already appreciating her efforts. My tasting of her 2009 riesling lots in tank revealed some tremendous early quality with complex fruit and pronounced minerality.

As for the 2009 harvest in general, Nancy is very pleased, although the cool and wet vintage was a "new challenge" for someone who cut her winemaking teeth in California. Despite the challenges of the growing season, especially the intensive vineyard management needed to keep ahead of potential problems, Nancy feels that most of the grapes are in great shape. "The pinot noir was really beautiful fruit this year with nice, even ripeness."

Energy efficient or not, one could point out that the production facility at Red Tail Ridge is more extensive than it needs to be for its planned output, yet the environmental features are so comprehensive that it seems almost certain that the long-term efficiencies will be significant and noteworthy. Furthermore, Nancy is the first to admit that such a facility is not a prerequisite for making good wine: these innovations are simply a reflection of her and her husband's dedication to environmental innovation.

In only a few short years Red Tail Ridge has become a Finger Lakes winery to watch. With a an adjoining tasting room slated for future construction as well as Nancy's propensity to experiment with different clones and varietals, the future looks even more interesting.

Standing Stone Vineyards: Ice Wine in the Banana Belt

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Standing Stone Vineyards is located on the southeastern shore of Seneca Lake in the so-called "banana belt" of the Finger Lakes. This stretch of lakefront, which encompasses several major and well-known wineries, is said by some winemakers to have temperatures that can sometimes range a few degrees warmer than the surrounding area, either enhancing ripening or staving off killer cold.

During a recent visit, I was surprised to learn that Standing Stone is at the every epicenter of this warm area. Tucked away in a barn sits an old sign that signifies a very rich history: "Gold Seal Seneca Lake Vinifera Vineyards."

"Yes, this was the spot," owner and winemaker Marti Macinski confirms. "This is where Guy DeVaux and Charles Fournier tested their grapes."

The story is part of Finger Lakes lore.

Back in the 1960s while Dr. Konstantin Frank experimented with vinifera on Keuka Lake, the Gold Seal Wine Company brought two Frenchmen, Guy DeVaux and Charles Fournier, to the Finger Lakes to determine whether vinifera could thrive in its cool climate with harsh winters. Experimental stations were set up all over the region and, eventually, the site where Standing Stone is located was selected by Gold Seal as having the most ideal growing conditions in the region.

Gold Seal purchased the property in 1969 and planted riesling and chardonnay in 1972. By the mid-1980's the property had changed hands several times during long and complicated transactions that sent the Gold Seal brand into oblivion. Marti Macinski and her husband Tom bought the property in 1991.

Standing Stone has over 41 acres under vine, and is most noteworthy for having the feel of a long-standing agricultural enterprise. The farm long predates Gold Seal's purchase of the land. There are barns and buildings everywhere, including an old farmhouse where the Macinski's live, and an old smokehouse as well.

The view of the lake from the winery is also one of the nicest and most expansive I have seen.

Despite Standing Stone's natural advantage in ripening grapes, the reds at the winery are not often the most cited of the winery's offerings. Marti is particularly proud of her pinot noir and Pinnacle (a cabernet-based blend), but she acknowledges that her ice wines draws a great deal of attention.

"Our 1999 vidal ice wine received an 89 from Wine Spectator and wide critical acclaim," Marti explains, "so we asked ourselves if we should make more. Then, in 2001 we got our first 90!"

While Standing Stone keeps the price of their ice wine under $30, Marti emphasizes that it is tough going. "The yield losses are enormous as the months stretch past the regular harvest. It's also a challenge to make ice wine because it's hard to keep fermentation going with such high sugars. Only a few yeasts work well, and they have to babied along. If you don't pay enough attention, the whole wine can become a microbiological mess."

Standing Stone has made wine from grapes frozen on the vine, but since a solid freeze is hard to come by until well into January or February the yield losses can be unacceptable. For the most part, Standing Stone commercially freezes their ice wine grapes in November and then presses them in the cold during January.

Marti Macinski is excited about the 2009 harvest that, while not warm or easy to manage in terms of mildew and other rain-related problems, has still provided some good fruit. "This vintage is going to demonstrate who the good growers are, because it's the type of year that you have to work your tail off. Not two days went by this year that I wasn't in the vineyard."

But, the vineyard is where Marti feels most comfortable. "Winemaking is one thing," she says, "but growing is the really interesting part for me."  i   

What We Drank (October 12, 2009)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

What We Drank is a little bit different this week. In honor of Regional Wine Week, organized by DrinkLocalWine.com, which started yesterday, I asked our contributors to pick a New York wine. Of course, that's no problem because we're all drinking local wines anyway.

From Evan Dawson: Heart & Hands 2007 Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir

If blind tastings occasionally seem cliche, I would argue they are imperative in proving the strength of New York state wines to doubters. A brown bag can disarm biases.

This weekend, after sorting and stomping grapes at Heart & Hands Wine Company on Cayuga Lake (a post on the importance of sorting is on deck for later this week), I grabbed this bottle for a blind pour with a small group Saturday night.

I simply gave guests two glasses, one filled with this pinot, and another with the Tardieu-Laurent 2004 Saint-Joseph from the northern Rhone. I had a hunch that while these wines are wildly different, both are strong enough to escape any suspicion of local origin. I was right. Guesses flew around the room; one taster thought this bottle was a Spanish grenache, given its medium weight and spice.

Upon revelation came the now familiar -- yet always satisfying -- "Wow, is this really local?" Yes, it is. No, not everyone is making local wine like this. But when you know where to look, the results can be stunning. Especially for those who think New York state doesn't make wine with depth.

(This wine sells for $40 and is available on the winery's website and in a number of NY restaurants).

From Lenn Thompson: Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Merlot

By now you've probably heard at least something about the 2005 growing season on Long Island -- the early, frost-free spring, the hot, dry summer...and the, in some areas, 20 inches of rain in 8 days in October, right in the middle of harvest.

Some wineries stopped picking chardonnay when the rains started (virtually abandoning that fruit) to get the reds in before the deluge. Others waited. And hoped.

Not surprisingly, 2005 reds can be pretty inconsistent from winery to winery. If your vineyard practices, location and (frankly) luck allowed, the winds that followed the storm dried your vineyard out. Again, if you were lucky, the great-before-the-rain season ripeness survived.

It did with this Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Merlot (ignore the mis-labeled "Lowerre Reserve"), with ripe, bright flavors of black cherry and black raspberry, with subtle spice, light toasty vanilla and, after several hours in my glass, a little earthy edge. The tannins were soft, ripe and seamless.

It's not the most complex merlot you'll ever taste from Long Island, but it was extremely satisfying over the course of the evening, with enough fruit up front to appeal to Nena and just enough complexity to keep me coming back to it of course of several hours.

The bottle didn't last the evening. In fact we had to open a bottle of something else after this was gone.

From Julia Burke: Standing Stone 2007 Callioux

A late harvest chardonnay? Being a virgin to this style I couldn't resist when I saw it on the dessert drinks menu at Stone Cat Cafe on Seneca Lake.

In the glass, this Standing Stone offering was a lusty tiger-eye hue of amber, cloudy but not murky.

An initial whiff knocked me over with cranberry-juice cocktail and clover honey. As its fruit-gusher of a nose began to unpack itself I started to get a very distinctive and unexpected scent: fresh sushi.

I spent several minutes trying to pinpoint the smell, wading through memories of sesame oil, wasabi, seaweed, pickled ginger and raw fish, and after some consideration decided it was probably some kind of soy.

Within the somewhat expected finish of boozy citrus (if they make a bourbon orange julius this would be it) and continued honey I got a pleasant scent of almond extract.

A very interesting first experience with this incarnation of chard.  But with nothing to compare it to, I can't decide whether that central soy/sushi action was cloying or intriguing.

I'd be interested to see more wines of this style from the Finger Lakes.

From Tom Mansell: Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Sauvignon Blanc

I guess you could say this one is pretty darn local, since the tasting room manager at Damiani lives about a block from me.

Sauvignon blanc is not grown too much in the Finger Lakes, likely due to its susceptibility to rot and cold winters, and vegetative growth/vine vigor.

This offering from Damiani Wine Cellars on the east side of Seneca Lake is estate grown and isn't too bad. A few tiny bubbles of spritz in the glass. Clean on the nose, a bit of sulfur, green apple and light grapefruit.

Balanced acidity and and full mouthfeel lead to a pleasing, medium-long, if slightly hot finish. Ever-so-slight oxidation (at least in this particular bottle) is obvious only on the very end of the palate (though the apple up front may have been a clue). It doesn't really have the vegetal or tropical fruit qualities typical of other styles of sauvignon blanc, so it's pretty nondescript.

It did go well with an edamame-tarragon risotto Sarah whipped up, giving some further evidence for me of the connection of Sauvignon Blanc with herbs in the anise family.

Unfortunately, the winery's sold out of this wine, but you may be able to find it at some retailers.

From Bryan Calandrelli: Leonard Oakes 2008 Vidal Ice Wine

After visiting Leonard Oakes last week, I came away with that same feeling that ice wine will continue to steal the show up here as a common thread between wineries.

Leonard Oakes makes several types of wine and most of them are very small production, so I didn’t even realize that they made ice wine until this one was poured.

Even though I had a cold, the aromas of this ice wine were stunningly obvious. Hints of tangerine, mango and peach were all there, distinguishing it from many other simple, one-note syrupy versions.

For me ice wine should still have a backbone, and this one did with a great balance of acid and sugar.

All in all, another delicious estate grown ice wine from the Niagara region that can hang with the same quality offerings that Ontario charges three times as much for.

From Jason Feulner: Damiani Wine Cellars 2007 Meritage

This impressive Bordeaux-style blend from a warm Finger Lakes vintage says as much about Damiani as it does about the region's ability to produce good red wine.

A winery that professes a strong belief in stressed vines and extended hang time, Damiani offers with this bottling a red that exhibits deep and complex flavors marked by chocolate and tobacco and currant with just a hint of dark cherry.

The finish isn't huge but it lingers. The oak is perhaps just a smidgen too strong with this one, so let it breathe for a few minutes to let the flavors really settle out in the glass.

Overall, this wine is great example of what is possible in a warm vintage in the Finger Lakes with a low yield, hands-on emphasis found in some of the region's smaller operations.

Some Finger Lakes Food Thoughts

Photo courtesy of Dano's Heuriger

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Lenn has always intended that this blog emphasize wine and food, although there is so much wine news to talk about that sometimes we forget to mention food as often as we should. Admittedly I am not a foodie, and I know that I nearly always forget to write up my dining experiences in relating information about the Finger Lakes.

This article by Don Cazentre from the Syracuse Post-Standard does a wonderful job highlighting some new eateries as well as summarizing those culinary staples that already exist. I would recommend this article to readers who are thinking of visiting the Finger Lakes or who, like me, tend to fly a bit blind when it comes to planning meal stops between winery visits.

Last Monday evening my wife, daughter and I visited Dano's Heuriger on Seneca Lake, a five-year-old Austrian restaurant with unique architecture, an exciting menu and amazing food. Chef and owner Dano Hutnik came out to visit our table several times, greeting our 16-month-old daughter Elizabeth playfully as she worked up the courage to shake his hand and say "Hi!"

Elizabeth was especially fond of the tomato cream soup and I agreed with her wholeheartedly. I cannot even begin to describe the balance of cream and tomato, heightened with spices that begged for more spoon fulls. We could have made a meal just out of the soup.

I ordered the wiener schnitzel, which came very plain but crispy and tasty. My wife Kathleen ordered roast chicken with spatzle. The chicken was fall-of-the-bone good, perfectly roasted with what seemed like a hint of sage and thyme. The spatzle was chewy with a welcoming texture which we ate up with gusto.

I find German/Austrian food to be somewhat straightforward, and that's usually a good thing. This meal was by all measures a solid foray into simple but hearty cooking.

Unfortunately, we pulled into this restaurant a bit fatigued and tired from taking photos at wineries all day, so I have no images to provide from our dining experience (sorry Lenn!). Instead, do yourself a favor and go to Dano's to feast your own eyes. It's a must-see, a must-eat, and the people there are great.

Shaw Vineyard: Reds Against the Machine (and a Little Green Too)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspndent

(Note: this story is part two of a two-part series highlighting some unique production choices at Shaw Vineyard.)

Shaw Vineyard just released its 2005 reds this month.

In the Finger Lakes, that fact would normally be the story in and of itself, but the true story starts in 2004 when Steve Shaw called the Europress California office to order a specialty-built Rauch A-8 Crusher/De-stemmer.

"I tried a French de-stemmer that had some very limited variable options," winemaker and owner Steve Shaw remembers. “It just didn’t work well as I wanted. I called Europress to get them to custom-build a variable speed version of their common de-stemmer. It cost me 20% more to get the results I wanted."

"They really thought I was crazy when I told them I wanted no crusher at all on the de-stemmer. Between the variable speed and the complete lack of crusher, it’s a unique machine."

The device, which Steve says was the only Europress had made at the time of its creation, is a de-stemmer that has a nearly infinite number of speeds available to the winemaker. All red varieties are conveyor-fed and de-stemmed at the lowest possible impact point, the berries being released fully intact into vats for cold soaks, eventually resulting in whole berry fermentation after inoculation with sulfur. The desired yeast is added to the must, but no artificial heat is used.

"Everything is done by hand." Steve emphasizes. "There are no pump-overs with a hose pump for any grapes, clusters or must — only later with fermented juice. Punch downs are done by hand. We lift what berries are left after fermentation into the press with a conveyer, and we press at a very, very low 1 bar of pressure, Champagne style."

Steve’s philosophy on handling grapes stems from his background both observing and engaging in winemaking. A 30-year-grower, he witnessed firsthand how different Finger Lakes wineries treated his grapes and what kind of wines resulted. Steve cut his winemaking teeth at Silver Thread in the late 1990s, and then began to plan his own venture in 2000.

To further his education, he took trips to Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Napa and spoke to whomever he could about winemaking techniques.

"I noticed, especially in Bordeaux, that there was a lot of talk about handling of cooler climate grapes and how it affects the flavors. I compared that to what I had learned in the Finger Lakes in the cool climate here.”

Steve built his production facility in 2002, an energy-efficient building that he does not even have to heat most winters. He left room in anticipation of other winemakers wanting to rent space the facility and, much to Steve’s delight, Morten Hallgren soon arrived to produce wines for his new winery, Ravines Wine Cellars.

“I tell people it’s like taking batting practice with Derek Jeter,” Steve jokes. “Morten is a master winemaker with a great deal of experience, and he has been an amazing consultant as I’ve pursued my own style of winemaking. Our views on grape handling are very similar and it’s been a beneficial relationship.”

Beyond the unique machinery and delicate handling, Steve is adamant that his reds must take time to age before they are released. “It’s a luxury I give myself, but it’s important to me to give the reds time to develop. It’s a common practice in other winemaking regions.”

I found that the just-released Shaw 2005 reds, a merlot, cabernet franc, and cabernet sauvignon, are all prime examples of the vintage, with nice balance, ripe fruit, and expressive aromatics. The cabernet sauvignon will surprise many tasters who have not seen many quality bottlings of that varietal in the Finger Lakes; much like his 2003 version, Steve Shaw’s 2005 cabernet sauvignon is a tasty, enjoyable red.

Steve Shaw is proud of his wines, but he is also proud of the environmentally-friendly facility that has evolved under his watch. “The tank building rarely needs to be heated. I put the underground barrel cellar directly beneath the tasting room, and the heat it gives off keeps this place warm in the winter. Between the design of these buildings and the way I handle my grapes, I think this is a pretty distinctive operation for the Finger Lakes. The whole idea at Shaw is gentle extraction from the grapes of the desired flavor components that the particular growing season offers.”

A Surprising Second Label at Shaw Vineyard

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

(Note: this story is part one of a two-part series highlighting some unique production choices at Shaw Vineyard.)

Wineries that produce a second label do so for many reasons, although the secondary nature of the label almost assuredly implies less-expensive, less-focused wine. 

Some top-flight establishments offer a second label that is still a solid wine by almost any standard, although many wineries throw whatever they can into a bottle and call it a day, often not focusing on quality in the process.

On a recent tasting at Shaw Vineyard I encountered this pinot grigio, a part of their second-label line, Li Bella. The bright blue bottle and watercolor dragon fly were certainly attractive but I did not necessarily expect that the wine would stand up to the other wines under the main Shaw label.

I was wrong.

While the pinot grigio has just a touch of sweetness (1.4 RS), it is also a crisp, focused, aromatic white that exhibited a great deal of quality and depth. In fact, it was simply a good Finger Lakes white wine--period.

I inquired about the origin of the label from owner and winemaker Steve Shaw. The original idea, conceived by Steve's son and marketing partner, Steve Shaw Jr., was to produce a fresher, brighter style for consumption by a target market of female wine drinkers in New York City and Florida. "It's done very well downstate," Steve Shaw Jr. explains. "The wine is at a very competitive price point for the market."

The label itself was designed and painted by Steve Shaw Jr.

Although the wine's image was softened for marketing purposes, no major compromises were made in the production of the wine. "This wine was made like all Shaw Vineyard wines," emphasizes Steve Shaw Sr. "I used only whole cluster press, with no crushing and no pump-over, which is the case for all my wines. The only difference is the RS, which I would keep around .8 if this was under the Shaw label."

Currently, Shaw does not make a pinot grigio for his main line.

400 cases of Li Bella were made for the 2007 vintage, which sold out quickly. 600 cases were made for 2008. The grapes were sourced from a per acre contract and will be completely single vineyard for the 2009 vintage.

Due to the success of the Li Bella experiment, Shaw Vineyard will also produce a 2009 cabernet franc for the same line. While many entry-level reds are produced and bottled in the same year, Shaw is adamant that the difference in quality between the main label cabernent fanc and the Li Bella version will be minimal. "At this point, I'm planning on aging the Li Bella for 18-24 months instead of my typical 34 months for a red."

Perhaps my expectations are low for a second label, but in the case of Shaw and Li Bella I was pleasantly surprised by the focus on quality across the spectrum. As it stands, Li Bella is more of an alternative label than a secondary one, which at a few bucks less is a great deal for the consumer.

The Great Northern Migration (of Grapes, That Is)

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Regional Correspondent

I encourage followers of the New York winery scene to check out this article by Syracuse Post-Standard writer Don Cazentre. For some time, wineries in the frozen hinterlands north of Syracuse in the Thousand Island region, the Tug Hill Plateau, and the Adirondack foothills have been making a brazen attempt to grow a significant amount of grapes using cold-hardy hybrids developed by Cornell and the University of Minnesota.

This article focuses on the operations in the Thousand Islands region and specific varieties developed by the University of Minnesota.

Formerly, these wineries relied heavily on grapes sources from vineyards throughout the state. Now, they are attempting to cement their own regional identity.

The article contains quotes from some usual sources that exhibit the "come one, come all" mentality of winery expansion in the state. The number of wineries in New York (wow!), and the rate of growth is mentioned as well.

While I think it's great that people are following their entrepreneurial dreams, I'm also aware that the issues of saturation and identity always come into play when we are talking about expansion of the New York wine industry. Has it come to pass that we can no longer talk about the "New York" industry because it is too globular and diverse to warrant a specific description?

What are your reactions to this article and some of its implications?

Heart & Hands Wine Company: Unique Focus (Pinot!) and a Unique Tasting Experience

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Editor's Note: Jason and I both visited this wine company in recent days and we both left with the impression that, at $10, the cellar tasting at Heart & Hands is the most unique tasting experience in the Finger Lakes, just made for wine enthusiasts. Jason details it below. Higgins is the winemaker who organized last week's industry tasting of Finger Lakes Pinot, which was detailed here. -Evan

I recently paid a visit to Heart & Hands Wine Company, a new winery on the northeastern shore of Cayuga Lake, to scoop a story for Life in the Finger Lakes magazine about the choice of winemaker Tom Higgins to specialize his operation. Heart and Hands makes several different kinds of wine from only two grapes: Riesling and Pinot Noir. In fact, 90% of the operation is dedicated to Pinot, with just 10% focusing on Riesling. Higgins’s choice to specialize so intently is unique to the Finger Lakes and might be a bit of a shock to some consumers, although most wine enthusiasts will sense the Old World emulation that Higgins is attempting to display. Even many California regions like Napa have numerous wineries that specialize in only a few grapes that are fed into a limited range of products.

Higgins' educational stints in Bordeaux and California speak to his craftsmanship and expression. By far the most unique operation Higgins encountered that informed his stance on specialization is Calera, a Central Coast California winery located near Mt. Harlan that primarily makes Pinot Noir. The founder of Calera, Josh Jensen, picked his vineyard sites based on an occurrence of limestone, which is a rarity in California. Jensen views limestone as a basis for good Pinot, much like the growers in Burgundy. Higgins brought this informed perspective back to the Finger Lakes with him, searching for limestone much like Jensen did in California.

Although he is still sourcing grapes from select growing sites, Higgins just cleared his own vineyard at a site he selected primarily for the vein of limestone that juts through the property. You can learn more about the six carefully selected acres in my colleague Evan Dawson's video interview with Higgins in a separate post.

Limestone aside, I was even more impressed with the unique flair that he and his wife Susan -- who runs the business side of the operation -- have added to the tasting experience. For $10 visitors can take the cellar tour, but it's more than a tour. Guests enter the special-built cellar and taste Pinot Noir directly from the barrels. Higgins explains the site sources for each barrel and also compares difference batches that either had minimal stem contact or quite a bit. The result is bit of a blending game where tasters can mix, in their own glass, Pinot from different sites and varying tannic structure. There is no doubt that this exercise teaches the palate and informs the palate holder about the winemaking process.

The standard tasting room experience is also a highlight. On any given weekend Tom and Susan pour the wines, educating customers about the contents of their glasses, and they offer food pairings to demonstrate the flavors in the wines. I was surprised to learn that Higgins also adds a virtual library of information on the back label of each wine he produces. A bottle of Riesling, for instance, will have vintage notes, percentage composition of the wine by growing site, and all the other vital statistics include harvest and bottling dates, residual sugar—the works. I have simply never seen this level of detail on a label before, and I must say it adds a wonderful dimension of integrity that I wish that the wider industry would consider.

For an even better cool factor, Heart & Hands employs glass Vino-Seal stoppers on some of their Pinot Noir bottles. I’d heard of glass enclosures but I had never encountered one. I am almost positive no one else in the Finger Lakes is experimenting with these “cutting edge” stoppers. Likes his informative labels, Higgins is embracing a very forward-looking feel to his operation.

The Riesling, Late Harvest Riesling, two versions of Pinot Noir (normal and reserve) and the Brut Rose that Heart & Hands carry are all good wines worthy of consideration. The Brut Rose especially impressed with strong honey and strawberry notes with a bit of cherry and nice acidity. Beyond the quality of the wines, the hospitality and informative tasting environment at Heart & Hands makes this winery a must-visit for enthusiasts looking for something a little bit different.

24 Years of Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

On Sunday I had the unique privilege of tasting ten rieslings from Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars, ranging in date from 2008 all the way back to 1985.

While several other Finger Lakes wineries offered riesling library tastings as part of Riesling Month, virtually no other can reach as far back as Dr. Frank's, which has bottles dating from the 1960s. In this sense, Dr. Frank's provides an historical perspective on the region's potential.

Fred Frank, president of the winery, explained that the wines included in the tasting were not selected based on any notion of vintage quality and ageability. Instead, he related that the winery had varying numbers of bottles reserved from each vintage. With a trade tasting and a consumer tasting both scheduled on the same day, it was necessary to select those vintages that could spare a few bottles and still retain some stock down cellar.

Such practical considerations made for an interesting flight, as the vintages represented both the extremes of the Finger Lakes, hot and dry versus cool and wet, and many points in-between.

The wines tasted, in order, were: 2008 Dry Riesling, 2007 Dry Riesling, 2005 Dry Riesling, 2001 Reserve Riesling, 1991 Dry Riesling, 1988 Dry Riesling, 1987 Dry Riesling, 1985 Dry Riesling, 2007 Semi-Dry Riesling, and the 1995 Semi-Dry Riesling.

The Dry Rieslings

There are nearly an endless number of observations that can be made when one approaches a tasting that has so many variables attached to it. At the most basic level, all of the wines were interesting and enjoyable, which is a result that should never be taken for granted.

Starting with the newer vintages, I detected the flavors and descriptions that are often attached to a Finger Lakes riesling. In the 2008, 2007 and 2005 dry rieslings, the noses had hints of apple blossom, followed by tastes of melon and citrus backed with varying degrees of acidity and minerality.

As I have observed in the past with many other Finger Lakes rieslings from 2007, this wine was all about fruit but with less acidity and minerality, a combination that I do not enjoy as thoroughly. Of the more recent vintages, the 2005 was definitely the strongest, with an almost perfect balance of minerality and fruit and a full mouthfeel. The 2008 was very good but still in bottle shock, so future judgments await.

When we jumped from the 2005 to the 2001, the nose and flavors shifted considerably. The 2001 had a mellow fruit component, more akin to pear than melon or critrus. I also detected a hint of honey and toasty herbs. The wine possessed tremendous backbone and a compelling but austere finish.

 Skipping another ten years, the 1991 exploded with similar toast and honey flavors, striking the mid-palate with a viscous butterscotch that dripped into a long finish that evolved and evolved. This was an excellent and well-aged wine that exhibited complexities that one might not associate with a newer riesling.

The 1988 and the 1987 were somewhat similar and in that sense exciting. Both wines showed the butterscotch flavor, although the nose on the 1988 was a bit sharper (it reminded me of mint) and also had a lingering finish. The 1987 had just a touch of petrol (the only wine to really show this quality) and had a finish that did not linger but was narrow, well-defined, and drying.

We arrived at the 1985 with the anticipation that enthusiasts naturally lend to the oldest wine in a group. Unfortunately, the floral nose led to a wine that had passed its prime. A second bottle was opened, to a similar effect. Fred Frank expressed some measured disappointment and began to show us the corks from these bottles which were intact but obviously pushed to their limits. Some oxidation likely occurred, but the wine was still drinkable and worth considering. As I stated to one of my tasting companions, "A dying good wine is better than a new bad one."

Of course the 1984, if tasted, could have been wonderful, or maybe an even older vintage as well. Or perhaps a third bottle of 1985 might have done the trick. This isn't an exact science! All in all, I was very happy that we tasted to nearly 25 years with some amazing results.

The Semi-Dry Wines

The winery reserved the two semi-dry rieslings for the end of the tasting believing that they would have a different overall profile. For the most part, this predication held true. The 2007 semi-dry riesling was a knockout, with powerful lemon and citrus flavors backed by a touch of sweetness and hint of acidity and minerality. This wine was in tremendous balance and demonstrated to me, again, that on the whole I prefer 2007 semi-dry reislings to their dry counterparts from the same vintage. This wine is a must-have.

The 1995 semi-dry riesling was like molasses wrapped in fruit, possessing a solid structure and tremendous mouthfeel that led to a pleasing and lingering finish. This wine was an example of what a slightly sweet aged riesling can accomplish, and I wish we had not tasted this last as I think it might have held up very well in direct comparison to some of the dry riesling results in vintage order.

Conclusions and Observations

It's difficult to come to any specific conclusions about this exercise. As in all large tastings I felt humbled by the varying tastes and questioned constantly my ability to sort through all of the sensory information. Based on the conversations during the tasting, however, most of the participants reached similar conclusions about the general shift in aromas and flavors as the vintages became older. 

I am now more convinced than ever that a well-made riesling can easily age 10-20 years and that riesling can take on an entirely different characteristics between the 10 and 20 year mark. Based on this experience and others, I dare say that Finger Lakes rieslings can age and they age well, offering a new dynamic to an already complex and satisfying white.

Which of the wines was the most significant stand-out? I'd have to say that the 1991 was the most interesting in that its complex tastes and aromatic qualities formed a perfect bridge between the elements of a newer rieslings and the intense flavors of an older version. The wine was just so perfect right now.

Fred Frank graciously revealed that the 1991 riesling was made in large part by Peter Bell, currently the head winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards.

...and a little surprise...

At the very end of the tasting, the group was treated to a yet-to-be-released 2008 Late Harvest Riesling made in the traditional Trockenbeerenauslese style.

Wow.

The botrytis just plain kissed these grapes, providing a sweetness of such depth and luxury that I wanted to demand another glass. Yes, the wine is that good even in its newly-bottled youth.

The winery is unsure of the eventual release price, and while I would hope that the wine remains affordable, I imagine they will find some buyers who are willing to take the plunge.

Rumor has it that 2008 was a great year for late harvest and ice wines. If Dr. Frank's late harvest is typical of the vintage than these wines will be prized indeed.

Holding Back: the 2009 Riesling Rendezvous

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Last year, at the 2008 Riesling Rendevouz event at the beautiful New York Wine and Culinary Center, I had the distinct pleasure of tasting a great many 2007 rieslings. In fact, few of the 40 plus wineries at last year's event were not pouring their 2007 rieslings.

I was able to sample so many 2007 rieslings at this single event last year that I felt confident enough to proclaim familiarity with the vintage before summer even started.

The 2009 Riesling Rendevouz provided a slightly different story. All of the trappings were the same: the nice tasting setups, the great food, and the same fun and informative staff. As I moved from tasting booth to tasting booth, however, I soon learned that unlike its predecessor, the 2009 version of the Riesling Rendevouz would not provide me with many opportunities to try the newest vintage. In fact, all told, I had only 4 or 5 new 2008 rieslings. Almost all the wineries were pouring their 2007 rieslings, and a quite a few were still pouring some 2006 rieslings!

This result left me with mixed feelings. On one hand, I wanted to share the excitement of a new vintage and begin to taste and judge its qualities. On the other, I can't help but applaud a development that shows a bit of maturity for the region as a whole. I think.

I checked the date of last year's event, and it was held at least a week-and-a-half earlier, so there is no doubt that wineries are consciously holding on to their 2008 rieslings.

The reason for this development could fall into two main possibilities: either the region has decided not to rush its new vintages, taking the time to harvest and ferment a little later, leaving some extended time in tank, and maybe even possibly holding on to their wines once bottled to avoid tasting and selling shocked wines; or, perhaps everyone has a ton of 2006 and 2007 rieslings in stock and they need to push them out the door before they even think about selling the 2008s.

The pragmatist in me thinks it is a combination of both. Either way, I see no reason why we always want the newest Finger Lakes rieslings RIGHT NOW when so many wine regions around the world hold on to their whites just a touch longer and hold on to their reds for several years. On the whole, this might be a good development for the region which signifies increasing quality.

The few 2008s I did try were very good but hard to describe as of yet. Anthony Road Wine Company's winemaker Johannes Reinhardt calls the vintage "beautiful" and the best he's seen in his tenure at the Finger Lakes. Ravines Wine Cellars' winemaker Morten Hallgren was also adamant about the quality of the vintage, explaining to me that the structure is very intact but that the fruit was also present and in balance, a nearly-perfect vintage after the steely wines of 2006 and very ripe wines of 2007.

We shall see. I am looking forward to tasting more 2008 rieslings.

As always, I enjoyed the Riesling Rendevouz event, which I think is a marvelous opportunity for wine drinkers to be exposed to the quality of the region in a single evening. With so many wineries to visit, it sure is convenient to get a large sample all at once!

Rockin' with Reds at Damiani

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

There are a few Finger Lakes wineries that have made the production of red vinifera the cornerstone of their business plan. What makes Damiani Wine Cellars, located on the eastern shore of Seneca, unique is the winery's original emphasis on red to the exclusion of whites.

When the winery opened in 2004 after several years of experimentation, it offered a variety of reds and only a limited number of whites.

"Well, we are red wine drinkers," shrugs Phil Davis, a second-generation grower who oversees the grape growing and production. Lou Damiani serves as the winemaker of the operation.

Both Davis and Damiani own several acres of vineyards around and near the winery property. Davis explains that the site is ideal of red growing because it is part of the "banana belt" the area on Seneca Lake that receives favorable sun and air treatment to remain slightly warmer than the immediate surrounding area. "We are near the deepest part of the lake and the afternoon sun is strong here. It can sometimes mean a 5-10 degree difference on important growing days."

Davis admits that even with an extra bit of warmth that growing red grapes is not easy in the Finger Lakes. To emphasize and concentrate flavors, Davis believes in stressing his vines, keeping them small and making them work very hard to find their roots. Yields are kept as low as needed, and harvests stretch well into November as Davis tries to find the right pH levels, the indicator he finds most telling about red potential.

The results are impressive. Damiani offers several versions of merlot and pinot, as well as a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, a meritage, and even a syrah.

The 2007 Barrel Select Merlot exhibited a great deal of potential but needs some years to downplay the oak a bit to let its ripe flavors of raspberry, chocolate, and tobacco shine. The 2007 Pinot Noir was very well-balanced with an interplay of earth and cherry, and the Meritage from the same vintage kept developing in the glass and will likely offer some fun and nuanced flavors as it ages.

Despite their demonstrated enthusiasm for reds, Damiani recently began to offer a few more whites ("We are white wine drinkers too," Davis assured me). I had the opportunity to taste the batch of 2008 whites from tank and I found the upcoming Gewürtztraminer extremely compelling as it danced on the tongue with sharp acidity, spice, and an aromatic maturity consisting of moss and floral scents. The 2008 rieslings should also offer riesling lovers fine examples of this variety.

I arrived at Damiani to sample and examine their devotion to reds, but left with an appreciation for their willingness to fully explore the ability of the Finger Lakes region to produce good wine of all varieties. In addition to their expanding white portfolio, the winery is also working on a sparkling wine made in the méthode fashion. Asked what his goals are, Davis talks of his hobby of buying up Old World wines to compare and contrast methods, styles, and results. "The Finger Lakes isn't Europe, but Europe's style is a good reference point. We can make good cool climate wines and we're just figuring out what works here."

  

The Best Policies Money Can Buy

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Despite Syracuse's proximity to the Finger Lakes region, I have always found wine coverage in the local newspaper, the Syracuse Post-Standard, lacking (abysmal, actually). With this in mind, I was surprised to find an article recently in that same paper about the wine and grocery story controversy that went above and beyond in many respects. This piece, by Bob Niedt, investigates the money that went into the lobbying effort on both sides, at the same time juxtaposing the local perspective and efforts of wine shop owners in the Syracuse area.

Only a small portion of the details have come out so far, but it seems safe to say that hundreds of thousands of dollars on both sides were spent on lobbying in the last few months. Well-known grocery chains as well as independent liquor stores not only joined coalitions that paid for lobbying collectively, but also paid for lobbying directly.

What stinks about this situation, no matter which side you may happen to support, is that Albany's vote is for sale. The state is empowered by these controversies because we all feel the need to join the rat race and pump money into the corrupt system lest we miss out on a chance to peddle influence.

Albany save us! Albany please don't hurt us! Albany you are all powerful!

Is this really all about the wine industry, or consumers, or is it about which advocates will have the long-term ability to invest more and more into this lobbying effort? Independent liquor stores cannot remain so firmly united forever, and the larger grocery entities will continue to pour money into the system in order to justify their original investment.

Who do you think is going to win this one? My money is on the folks with the money.

Over time, the final answer to this question about wine and grocery stores will not be settled by what Albany feels is right, wrong, or even the will of the people. Instead, money will dictate the answer, and money will always trump all other considerations. Right now, the status quo has been maintained because Albany is still trying to figure out who has the better long-term prospects.

Red Tail Ridge Winery: A Different Kind of Investment

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

While the basic strategy for opening a functional winery differs from region to region, in the Finger Lakes the trend seems to follow a path that calls for the opening of the tasting room first with production facility and vineyard coming later.

While this might be a generalization of sorts, it makes sense in many respects. Nearly 75% of wine sales in the Finger Lakes occur on site; many larger wineries lease production space; and a vineyard takes quite a few years to produce grapes.

A winemaker or entrepreneur can purchase grapes, make wine at a different facility, and then sell it in a tasting room to raise capital for the eventual construction of the production facility and vineyard. I can think of several newer Finger Lakes wineries that have gone this route. Most importantly, the tasting rooms are placed prominently next to main roads so that wandering tourists will stop inside and spend their money.

Not so at Red Tail Ridge. When I visited this new winery last summer on the western shore of Seneca Lake, the progression of the operation struck me as unique. The well-marked entrance from Route 14 invites visitors up a long, winding dirt road, but there is no sign of a tasting room at all. In fact, all one can see up and over the rolling hill are acres and acres of vines.

These are impressive rows of young vines, well spaced and groomed with thick trellises anchored so securely that it looks like a raging tornado would leave the plants intact.

As the dirt road deposits you in the midst of this 30-plus acre vineyard, it's difficult not to be surprised by the small, temporary-looking building that serves as the tasting room. The building looks so out-of-place in the middle of the vast vineyard because it is indeed temporary. Red Tail's owner and winemaker, Nancy Irelan, has bigger and better plans for the facility. She and her co-owner and husband Michael Schnelle want to try something a little different.

A 15-year veteran of the California wine industry and a Ph.D.-holding geneticist specializing in oenology, Nancy Irelan did not invest first in her vineyard based on a whim. She believes that wines are made in the vineyard, and while this may be the ultimate winemaking cliché, Irelan is very specific about what she means. 

To find the fruit and aroma characteristics she is looking for, Irelan created the vineyard to be something akin to an experimental station, with several varieties under examination to gauge their promise in the region's cool growing climate. One such experiment is Teroldego, a rare red grape from northern Italy.

Irelan has planted many different clones of more popular varieties to see how to best find the flavor profiles she desires. The many rows of pinor noir are made up of several different clones, as Irelan feels that the right mixture of these clones might unlock the key to a wine that shows a lot of potential in the Finger Lakes at times, but in many instances falls a little flat.

The vineyard appears well-designed aesthetically, and this impression is not superficial. If prompted, Irelan can explain in detail all the decisions that were made concerning drainage (the property is extensively tiled), moisture control, erosion control, row spacing, etc. She emphasizes that the methodical nature of the design plan creates a sustainable vineyard that has a minimal environmental impact.

In this spirit, Red Tail Ridge has retained Edge Architecture PLLC to design a tasting room and production facility that carries the ultimate seal of environmental sustainability, LEED-platinum certification (Learn more about LEED certification). If built to the specification of its current conception (see the graphic at the top of this post), the Red Tail Ridge winery will be the only LEED-certified facility in the heart of the Finger Lakes and one of only a handful of environmentally advanced buildings in all of upstate New York.

Nancy Irelan and Michael Schnelle hope to break ground on the foundation of the new facility this spring.

So, does what does a unique building like this have to do with making good wine? Well, everything and nothing, as Irelan explains: "No, it will not have an effect on the wine, but that’s not why we are doing this. This may be 'just a building' to most folks, but it's probably the only winery that Michael and I will ever build, so it needs to be representative of us and our values.  Sustainability is a part of our mind set and something that we believe in."

Admittedly, Irelan came to the Finger Lakes with an extensive capital plan (she originally assumed she would be investing in California's expensive industry) but she has taken the opportunity to use the region's flexible market to enhance her business. I have yet to taste samples of Red Tail Ridge's newest vintage, but I am excited about the dedication the owners are making to the region as well as the spirit they exhibit in creating a unique sense of place.

Red Tail Ridge as a destination will be something to behold, and that's never a bad thing.

PALATE 2009: A Multi-Vintage Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc Tasting

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The eternal debate among those who follow Finger Lakes wines, and even among those who don't, is whether the red wines can hold their own. Critics point to numerous examples of flat, unripe wines and castigate the entire category, virtually ignoring any promise shown by a handful of outliers. Proponents of Finger Lakes reds cite improving quality and, in their promotion of cool-climate potential, take advantage of the growing sentiment among wine enthusiasts that many California and Australian reds are too ripe, too alcoholic, and just plain overpowering.

Whether or not Finger Lakes reds have yet to arrive as a clear alternative, cabernet franc is widely considered to be the variety that shows the best quality and consistency of the Vitis vinifera reds grown in the region. When I was asked recently to host a tasting for the PALATE 2009 event, it occurred to me that by focusing on what may be the region's best red grape, I could draw attention to the main variable -- vintage -- and perhaps draw some general conclusions.

 On Sunday, February 22, I, with a group of tasters descended, upon Glenora on Seneca Lake, guided through technical matters by Fox Run Vineyards winemaker Peter Bell and his assistant winemaker Tricia Renshaw. Our goal was to taste a flight of cabernet franc from six different wineries, tasting an '05, an '06, and an '07 from each.

The reason I selected those vintages is simple: 2005 was warm and hospitable, an ideal vintage overall; 2006 was cool and damp, good for riesling but leaving many other varieties with issues; and 2007 was hot and dry, and by hot and dry I mean darn hot and dry, a vintage made for reds in a way the Finger Lakes rarely sees.

The group tried wines from Damiani Wine Cellars, Fox Run, Glenora, Lamoreaux Landing, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Red Newt Cellars. During the three-hour event, I implored the group to share their impressions while Peter and Tricia graciously answered questions about varietals, vintages, closures, winemaking, and all kinds of general topics.

To cycle through every aspect we approached in the tasting of these 17 wines (Red Newt did not produce a 2006 cabernet franc) would require a very long post. Since the point of this exercise was to consider vintage and winemaking choices, I am not going to highlight what were, in my opinion, the best wines, although I can say with confidence that the majority of the wines were good to very good.

So, what did the group find?

Wine Grape Task Force Releases Report

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

The Wine Grape Task Force formed last year under the Department of Agriculture and Markets released its report in December (warning: the online format is bit cumbersome to read). The task force lays out an interesting set of recommendations but there remain some lingering questions about implementation.

The report is comprehensive and seems to address many of the general concerns of the wine and grape-growing industries in New York State. It is obvious that many of those in attendance were well-versed, industry experts. Unfortunately, addressing concerns and solving problems are entirely different activities.

As I inferred in a post when the task force was formed, no matter what one writes in a report with the best of intentions, government and bureaucracy stand in the way of getting things done unless the proper stars are aligned. Some of the recommendations could be implemented with minor adjustments to enforcement of existing policies. Many others will require some real changes at several intersecting agencies.

The varied collection of interests that form this task force may be a strength in terms of lobbying for these changes. Concurrently, one of the weaknesses of such a group is that each member has a different set of needs in terms of business and geography. It may be easier to satisfy one constituency which has better representation, lobbying, or even a problem that has a ready-made solution, while other more difficult problems persist in other areas.

One of the elements of the report that will have to be reconsidered is its reliance on the state's ability to push economic development through specific agencies that would likely coordinate with the New York Wine and Grape Foundation. Since the release of the report, the state has been hit with considerable fiscal problems, threatening the existence of the NYWGF as well as the multitude of state programs that provided extra cash for all kinds of unique projects.

This report resembles an interesting perspective on the nature of the New York wine industry. Part of it looks to the future, hoping for an industry less encumbered by antiquated state regulations. At the same time, part of the report wants to rely on the past cadre of state agencies and programs that have tried to promote New York's industries in a centralized manner for decades, with arguably mixed success.

Recent events seem to indicate that the state may be unable to play as big a hand in industry and economic development. As for the future of the New York wine industry, I wish the task force luck as they begin to engage the specific recommendations found within their report, although its unclear if the task force can or will advocate for specific reommendations now that the report has been released.

PALATE Promises to be a Winter Warmer

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

I grew up in Corning, NY, on the southern edge of the Finger Lakes. It has always been a great small city with a tremendous amount of beauty and culture. Every year, throngs of tourists stroll through the world-famous glass museum, visit the quaint shops on Market Street, and enjoy various outdoor music and art festivals.

Of course, that all takes place in the spring and summer. Recently, I was surprised to see an announcement that Finger Lakes Wine Country and Corning's Gaffer District were hosting a week-long wine event called PALATE from February 16 through the 22.

As far as I know, nothing ever goes in Corning in the winter! (Well, I do remember going to high school and shoveling the driveway...).

I caught up with Finger Lakes Wine Country president Morgen McLaughlin and asked her about the thinking behind a week-long winter event. "We are trying to increase off-season visitation. PALATE is in the spirit of the Mustard Festival in Napa, which is actually two-months long."

The name PALATE refers to the genres of wine, food, and art, all three of which will be incorporated into the 2009 celebration as well as the annual tradition that McLaughlin and her fellow planners hope to establish. The itinerary on the website is still under construction, but the week will include barrel tastings from several Finger Lakes wineries, food and wine tastings at Market Street restaurants, wine presentations by local experts and enthusiasts, a live music crawl, and even a screening of Merlove, an off-beat documentary for wine lovers.

McLaughlin expects at least 300-400 attendees for PALATE, although the focus this year is not on numbers and broad marketing but on creating an event that can build upon itself year after year. She has high hopes for the future of off-season wine festivals in the Finger Lakes.

I will be attending at least some portion of Palate with a great deal of enthusiasm as I will get to experience Finger Lakes wine as well as visit my mom and dad: a wonderful combination. Warm weather or cold, Corning is always a delight to visit any time of year.

Jason's Finger Lakes Wines of 2008

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Lenn asked me to write a "wines of the year" post, but as enthusiastic as I am about Finger Lakes wines, I feel ill-equipped to name a "wine of the year" since the joyous rigors of life keep me from driving around the Finger Lakes as much as I'd like. Through events and site visits, I probably tasted four dozen rieslings this year and sampled the spectrum of varietal selections at about 20 wineries.

That's a lot of tasting, but there are a lot of wineries in the Finger Lakes region (at least 115 at this point). While a few of these wineries aren't into vinifera to any great extent, there are still quite a few that I feel I have overlooked despite the fact that they are producing serious wines.

So, this post is not really about wines of the year as it is a reflection on those wines that seem to stick out the most in my mind for one reason or another. I guarantee I'm missing some great wines, but if you are looking to start with a few interesting picks I hope that these suggestions help.

If any readers want to pipe in with a suggestion or two of their own, then please feel free to comment.

I'll start with riesling. While 2007 was a good year for riesling, I've explained previously that I feel that the complexity and balance of these wines is simply not as overwhelming as the steely 2006 vintage. Overall, I preferred the semi-dry versions to the dry, the former displaying a playful offset of sweetness with the blunt ripeness of the fruit.

One exception to this observation was the very dry 2007 Argetsinger Riesling from Ravines Wine Cellars. A subtle and refined wine created from grapes selected from a single-source vineyard, this is the type of wine that does a little something different every time it's tried. It's not a showstopper in terms of a strong nose or tastes, but its smooth minerality interacts so well with the citrus notes that the resulting flavor is extremely memorable. I could not get enough of this wine.

The other riesling that really sticks out in my mind is the 2007 Semi-dry Riesling from Anthony Road Wine Company. I had an opportunity to taste this wine while it was still in tank, and even in its youth it was a tremendous achievement. The fruit flavors are fully in balance with the sweetness and acidity, creating a real zinger of pineapple and citrus backed with structure. This is a fun riesling.

Gewürtztraminer is beginning to build some much-deserved notoriety in the Finger Lakes. I had the pleasure of tasting several, but the one that demonstrated an amazing complement of flavors was the 2007 Gewürtztraminer from Sheldrake Point. This wine plays with the senses, revealing layers of floral notes, deep spice, and honeyed apples. While many Gewürztraminers in the Finger Lakes are of a fleeting quality as winemakers learn more about this grape, this wine is an example of a very solid result.

One more white that I think deserves attention that made a big impression on my 2008 wine drinking experience. Dr. Frank's 2006 Rkatsiteli. It was a constant standout in social engagements at which I shared this wine with others. No matter who I served this wine to, the reactions were filled with praise for the unique taste and extreme curiosity about the name and origin of the grape. By the end of the year I wished I'd purchased more, but I'm happy that it is still available. Rkatsiteli is a smooth, satisfying, and structured white that I think has a bright future in the Finger Lakes.

By the middle of 2008, most wineries had released nearly all of their reds from the 2006 vintage and some from the 2007. 2006 was a relative disappointment for reds after the tremendous 2005 vintage, with of course some exceptions made by winemakers who can really produce quality reds in mediocre years. I have not tasted any released 2007 reds, although the few I've had from barrel or tank are really showing potential.

So, what red in released in 2008 made the biggest impression on me? It was not a wine from 2007 or 2006, but in fact a wine from the 2003 vintage, made from a grape that is not often associated with quality in the Finger Lakes.

Shaw Vineyard's 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was released only this year, in adherence to winemaker Steve Shaw's philosophy that Finger Lakes reds should age for several years much like a Bordeaux. I tasted this wine with few expectations since a straight bottling for cabernet sauvignon is rare in the Finger Lakes.

Perhaps this wine was at its peak maturity when I tasted it. If so, its peak maturity was something to behold. Cherry and black currant dominated the palate, with hints of tobacco and wood. These flavor alone, however, did not separate this wine from the pack. What I found most compelling was the finish, which lingered and lingered and lingered, unlike nearly any Finger Lakes red I've had in the past.

Simply put, Finger Lakes reds don't often finish like that, and yet the wine had all the smooth, cool-climate characteristics of other quality Finger Lakes reds. That 2003 was not particular great year for ripening fruit says a lot about the prospect of holding red wines longer for release.

Well, there's the lot of 'em. While I can't emphasize enough my disclaimer that these wines stuck out in a sort of random fashion during my own travels, probably at the same time as I was missing or overlooking other great wines, I'll stand by these few. You may not place them at the very top of your own list, but I think they all have some great and/or interesting qualities that lead to enjoyment.

Chateau Frank and the Economics of Bubbles

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

During a recent visit to Dr. Frank's to compile a profile of its sparkling wine operation for Life in the Finger Lakes, I learned more than I expected to about the hard economic realities of creating such wines in the Finger Lakes.

As nearly all Finger Lakes winemakers will profess, the region is well suited to making sparkling wine. Because of the cool climate, and a wide open harvest window, growers can let grapes hang just a little longer to enhance ripeness and flavor without sacrificing the crisp acidity necessary for good sparklers.

Two of Dr. Frank's team winemakers who work with sparklers, Eric Bauman and Mark Veraguth (that's them at right), cannot stress enough how perfect the Finger Lakes is for such an endeavor. 

"In California we had to dump bags of acid in the tank because of of the hot climate," Eric Bauman remembers from his past sparkling wine experiences. "Here the acidity stays high as the grapes slowly ripen."

Veraguth, who is Dr. Frank's lead winemaker, continues to be excited about the winery's entire sparkling operation: "We have learned a lot over 20 years, especially with the harvest, but the consistency year after year with the (sparkling) wines is amazing."

With such growing conditions, why is Dr. Frank's one of the few wineries that produces sparklers in the Finger Lakes, not to mention one of even fewer that adheres strictly to the Méthode Champenoise? The answer is simple: it doesn't pay.

Dr. Frank's does well with its sparkling wine business, but does so with a significant head start and the backing of an established and profitable still wine operation. As time consuming and labor intensive as making sparkling wines can be, Dr. Frank's owner Fred Frank is honest about the economic hardships of making sparklers. "It's a labor of love," he smiles.

In fact, Dr. Frank's began to make sparklers under unique circumstances. Dr. Konstantin Frank's son, Willy Frank, established Chateau Frank in 1985 in an old winery cellar down the road from his father's main winery. Willy wanted to stretch his winemaking legs but did not want to compete directly with his father. The only product missing from Dr. Frank's original offerings were sparkling wines, so Chateau Frank was born.

Today, Chateau Frank is still separately bonded, although the staff and facilities at Dr. Frank's provide the winemaking expertise and marketing of its products. The sparklers are stored and riddled in the original Chateau Frank cellar under the daily supervision of Eric Bauman. "I spend a lot of time down here," he admits.

To understand the costs involved, consider the sparkling wine process. Most of the time, grapes intended for sparklers must be harvested early. Then, the grapes are pressed and the various lots are blended to make the cuvée of the vintage. If making a Champagne-style brut, this blending requires at minimum the dedication of several tanks to properly balance the three main components individually -- pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier -- and also additional tanks for cuvée blending.

Once this initial drain on resources is complete, the in-bottle fermentation takes place, followed by a long aging process. Labor-intensive riddling and disgorgement is in constant demand as the queue of vintages advances toward corking. Dosaged and corked bottles require more aging. Riddling machines (like the one at right) and disgorgement machines, if employed, are expensive.

If done properly, at least five years can pass between the harvest and the release of the wine. Needless to say, this extended process is not friendly to cash flow considerations. For wineries that want to begin the process, a great deal of free capital is needed for what can only be considered a long term investment.

Benefiting from a nearly 30-year sparkling wine tradition, the team at Dr. Frank's excels at making sparkling wines that are crisp, lively and complex. The current releases of Brut, Blanc de Blancs, and Blanc de Noirs are excellent sparklers, and the Crémant and Rosé sparklers are very enjoyable with the riesling-based Crémant an especially satisfying wine. Compared to their California and French counterparts, these Finger Lakes sparklers are a tremendous value and are also, I would argue, superior in style to many West Coast sparklers that are at least double the price.

If a cadre of patient investors with cash suddenly descended on the Finger Lakes, there is little doubt in my mind that the region would become known for its sparkling wine to an equal or greater extent than its rieslings. The current business conditions of the region, however, do not allow for such freedom for most operations. Perhaps as the larger and successful wineries become more financially stable, they will begin to consider investing in sparkling wine.

In the meantime, Dr. Frank's sparkling wines are an excellent introduction to what the future may hold for the Finger Lakes. 

Pompous Ass Winery Revisited

By Jason Feulner, Finger Lakes Correspondent

At a recent wine event in the Finger Lakes, a few individuals approached me to express disapproval over my previous post about the upcoming opening of Pompous Ass Winery on Seneca Lake.

Their chief complaint? Some felt that I came down too hard on Pompouss Ass before it had a chance to prove itself. I was told that the owners seemed like nice people.

I'm sure they are nice people, but that's not really the point.

Now that the winery has a liquor license and is open for business, I re-visited the website to see some new content. I found this bit of text: "And for those of you who enjoy fruit-forward sweeter wines, our Red, White, and Blush will be coming soon. R.S. 7%"

Yes, 7%! At 2%, the winery's more "serious" wines are certainly not bone dry either.

I won't rehash my entire critical argument about why I think the Pompous Ass concept misses the mark as a truly funny or appropriate Finger Lakes name, but this follow-up simply stresses the obvious now that the winery is finally showing what it will produce.

A good joke thrives on contrast. A cartoon donkey with a naughty name might work if the wines themselves were quite serious, or were surrounded by other serious wineries (like in Napa, for instance). Instead, what we have here is a cartoon promoting sweet wines, which actually makes sense. That's certainly nothing new.

But, unlike other wineries that have specific sweet wines with fun names, here we have a winery that is only the fun name. It's like if the famous Red Cat became a winery instead of just a label from Hazlitt, a winery that also makes some delicious, more serious wines.

Pompous Ass will probably make a boat load of money on the wine trail and will reward the owners handsomely. I wish them well, but in light of this news I still stand by my original opinion about the name.