New York Cork Report

The Fifth Season Has Moved to Port Jefferson

Because we don't have any family nearby for babysitting, Nena and I have gotten a bit out of the North Fork dining scene. We did make it to Jedediah's and North Fork Table last year, but there was one more North Fork restaurant we wanted to try -- The Fifth Season in Greenport.

So, I was really disappointed over the winter when I heard that it has closed. Co-owner and chef Eric Orlowski is stringently dedicated to local ingredients (and wines) and his ever-changing menu has gotten rave reviews from critics and LENNDEVOURS readers. It seemed, however, that we'd not get to taste Orlowski's food.

This afternoon, that changed as Nena, Jackson and I walked around Port Jefferson village. There, across the street from the marina was a restaurant called The Fifth Season in a space that has played host to several restaurants in recent years. Could it be the same restaurant and owners? A quick Internet search revealed that yes, it is.

Turns out that Chef Orlowski and his wife have reopened The Fifth Season -- and a whole lot closer to our house. They are at 34 East Broadway, and are open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday, http://www.thefifth-season.com

And, now that Jackson is old enough for non-family babysitters, it's going to be great to have them so close. Port Jefferson is a beautiful little Long Island Sound-side village, but the restaurants tend to be more underwhelming. Now, we might have one of Long Island's best restaurants 10 minutes away. That's definitely a good thing.

Can't Wait for our Garden of Eve Organic Farm CSA to Start

I don't think I've mentioned it here (not lately anyway) but our local grocery stores are awful. Pitiful really. They are particularly pathetic when it comes to the produce departments. The produce rarely looks fresh and it tastes great even less often.

That's just one of the reason we can't wait for our summer vegetable, fruit and egg shares to start at Garden of Eve Organic Organic Farm. It starts in a couple weeks, and our goal is to avoid the chain stores as much as possible for the 22 weeks of the program.

And, because I can't help but get involved in things I'm into, I've signed up to be a 'core member' and we had our first meeting with Eve last night to discuss event planning, member communication and volunteer programs at the farm. Our very own Donavan Hall, and his wife Denise, are core members as well. In fact, during the meeting, I got to taste some of his home brew (delicious) and even sampled some of their homemade mead, which was also good.

We talked about a lot of cool ideas last night -- chefs doing demonstrations with lesser-known produce, themed potlucks for members, a new blog and email newsletter program. It's going to be a lot of fun, but for me the real draw is the terrific produce we're going to get every week. AND, it will be good to have an excuse to drive out to wine country every weekend. I have to get our share, don't I?

Hamptons Restaurant Week 2008 Starts Sunday, March 30

You may have noticed the banner on the left-hand side of this site, but Hamptons Restaurant Week 2008 starts this coming Sunday and runs through April 6th. It's the sixth annual edition of HRW and it looks like they have more restaurants (and other vendors) lined up than ever.

LENNDEVOURS is proud to be a media sponsor this year and I'll be visiting at least a couple restaurants next week. One will be Southampton Publick House, which serves its own great beers. Not sure where else we'll go, but I'll definitely write about it.

There are some of the North Fork's top restaurants involved too, so don't let the "Hamptons" name scare you off if you live on the North Shore and hate the idea of driving to the Hamptons, even in the off season.

Check out the restaurant list for Hamptons Restaurant Week 2008 and make your plans early.

Wine Country Lunch: Love Lane Kitchen

By Lenn Thompson, Founder and Publisher

The North Fork restaurant scene has improved greatly over the last several years. Restaurants like North Fork Table, Jedediah's and Jamesport Manor have really upped the proverbial ante...but mainly for dinner.

There is still a dire lack of quality, affordable lunch options for people visiting wine country.

Even before Jadckson came along, Nena and I usually ended up at the Village Cheese Shop, located on Love Lane in the cute little village of Mattituck. We'd pick out a few cheeses, get a baguette and maybe some cured meat and olives, and take it to a winery to nibble on. But, just up the street is a relatively new lunch destination that gives us another good option: Love Lane Kitchen.

When making those cheese-focused trips to Love Lane, we'd seen Love Lane Kitchen several times, but hadn't stopped in. How was the food? Would it be family friendly? Well, LENNDEVOURS reader and fellow father of a 1-year old Dan, clued me in that it's extremely family friendly and tasty, so we stopped in last weekend to check it out.

Local With Local: Seared Peconic Bay Scallops with Wolffer Estate 2003 Estate Selection Chardonnay

Our little Local With Local project kicks off 2008 with another recipe from chef Doug Gulija from The Plaza Cafe in Southampton. This time around, we've paired a popular East End delicacy, Peconic Bay scallops, with a deliciously balanced barrel fermented 2003 Estate Selection Chardonnay from Wolffer Estate. As always, a big thanks goes out to by chef Doug and Ellen Watson, the photographic talent behind the above picture.

This is a terrific combo and I'm proud to say that this menu item is currently on the menu at the restaurant. Recipe behind the jump.

Dinner at Thai Gourmet. Drinks at Ruvo.

My mother in-law was here over the weekend to "get some Christmas shopping done." I put that in quotes mainly because we all know that the primary objective of the visit was to get her hands on her grandson. But I digress.

With a babysitter available, Nena and I decided to take full advantage Saturday night and go out to dinner...without Jackson. It's only happened a handful of times since he's joined us here at LENNDEVOURS headquarters. After knocking around a few ideas for venue, we decided upon one of our favorite take out joints, that happens to also be a BYBO restaurant, Thai Gourmet in Port Jefferson Station. It's the kind of small, no-frills place that offers affordable, delicious food...thus it's a favorite.

So, I snagged a bottle of Selbach-Oster 2005 Riesling Kabinett from the cellar and we were off. We had an expectedly delicious meal of curry noodles -- Nena's with seafood and mine with chicken, extra extra extra spicy. The sweetness of the riesling really did well with the extra spice I asked for, and got.

As any of you parents out there know, when your kid(s) are young, you develop a less-than-pleasant habit of speed eating. I know that no matter how well behaved Jax is at restaurants (he's absolutely perfect, not one issue) I still feel the need to eat quickly so we can get out of there and not tempt fate. Stupid? Yes, but I doubt uncommon.

So between our food coming out quickly and our speed eating, we found yourself done with dinner quite early and wanting to at least go somewhere for a drink before heading home. More specifically, Nena wanted a good glass of wine somewhere.

Now, anyone who lives in our area of Long Island knows that if you want beer or crap wine, there are plenty of places to go. But, there certainly aren't any wine bars around, and 99.9% of the restaurant bars only offer plonk by the glass. As we were pondering our next stop (as well as just going home and opening something good) Nena suggested Ruvo down in Port Jefferson village.

You might remember Ruvo from our last meal out without Jackson. What you probably don't know is that the owner-chef and I had a bit of an email "discussion" about that post -- one that started out one way, but ended on a somewhat friendly note.  That said, we decided to go to the bar there because we know they have a lot of Long Island wines on their list, including Nena's favorite rose this year, Corey Creek Vineyards' 2006.

The bar at Ruvo, even back when it was Printer's Devil years ago, was always a favorite of ours when forced to wait for a table. It's a big, copper, wrap-around number that it's always busy but not packed. After perusing the wine list, we decided to order a bottle, figuring we'd just take the leftovers home with us.

We picked out a bottle of Bedell Cellars' 2005 Taste Red and ended up talking to the bartender, Ricky, about Long Island wines. We were just getting ready to leave, when Chef DeNicola appeared with two glasses and a bottle of Lenz Winery 2001 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon. Turns out that after we introduced ourselves to Ricky, he was talking with chef a bit later an mentioned that there was a couple that seemed to know a lot about Long Island wines at the bar. So, he came right over with a smile. I think he was glad to see us back at his restaurant.

As we sipped what is probably a top two or three local cab, we chatted a bit about Ruvo, about some of the other things he's been doing like cooking at James Beard House and possibly opening a new seafood restaurant on the south shore. It was  great to meet him in person and he seems like a great guy who is dedicated to local wines and foods. You know that impresses me.

And meeting him, along with a great-looking fall menu, has convinced us to go back for dinner again.

Long Island Restaurant Week: Share Your Stories

Long Island Restaurant Week is going on right now and continues through Sunday night. Participating restaurants across the Island are offering special 3-course dinners for the terrific price of $21.95.

I know what you might be thinking, because I think the same way. Yes, some of the menus are pretty boring and lame. You know, house salad for an appetizer, roast half chicken for the entree and chocolate lava cake for dessert, but there are also some really interesting and unique items being offered as well.

Not every restaurant has their menu posted on their websites, but some of the stuff that I'd love to try includes:

• Bison Tostada with Blue Corn Chips, Spicy Avocado Mousse, & Melted Gruyere at Oscar's of St. James
• Spiced Pumpkin Ravioli with Roasted Pecans, Frangelico Cream Sauce, Topped with Sweet Potato Hay at Bella Vita City Grill
• Pumpkin Bread Pudding with Pumpkin Ice Cream and Creme Anglaise at Chachama Grill

One problem that I see with the menus that are posted is that many of the restaurants have supplements for more than half of the choices. That's a bit of a bait-and-switch if you ask me. If people are coming in for the $21.95 prix fixe, don't make most of the menu items cost them more.

It's dishonest in my opinion.

Have you taken part in restaurant week this year? If so, share your experiences in the comments.

Nena and I won't be enjoying any of the fine dining restaurants (because we'll have Jackson) but we are hoping to check out one of the more family friendly places this weekend.

Some Comments on Ruvo Restaurant (Port Jefferson, NY)

Because my parents were in town last weekend, Nena and I were able to sneak out of the house, sans Jackson, and have dinner together for the first time in a while. It doesn't happen much these days, so we try to take full advantage when it can happen.

After calling one of our favorite places, The Kitchen - A Bistro in St. James, only to find out that they aren't open on Sunday evenings, we settled on a new-to-us place in Port Jefferson, Ruvo. We've had friends tell us good things, so we figured we'd give it a shot.

I won't go so far as to say that I'm sorry we tried it, but I'm in no hurry to go back.

We've only been there once, obviously, so doing a full review isn't fair, but I do have a few tips that I'd offer Ruvo:

• Learn how to cook Veal scalloppine. It is pounded thin and cooked quickly for a reason. It's supposed to be tender. Not chewy and leathery.
• If you're an Italian restaurant, you should serve pasta al dente and well-seasoned. Not mushy, without salt.
• While you're at it, it'd be nice if you served that pasta in a bowl that looks nicer than the Correlle Ware cereal bowl I had in my dorm room freshman year.
• Give your hostess a raise. We saw her more than we did our server. I have a feeling that we'd still be waiting for our check if not for the hostess.

On the positive side of things:

• Nena loved her rigatoni with seared scallops and mushrooms
• Ruvo probably has the best Long Island wine list this side of the North Fork
• The bar is a great spot to have a drink before or after dinner.
• Seasonally focused menu items are inventive and bring more local flavor to the menu

Before I conclude this post, I have a question for all of my blogging and/or technology addicted friends out there:

Is it ever appropriate to have your laptop out on the dinner table, open and on, during dinner at a nice restaurant? There was a woman across the dining room from us who had hers out on the table and was actively working on it throughout our dinner. Her dining companion (who we assumed to be her mother) didn't seem bothered by it, but the glow of the screen didn't really work well with the dark ambiance of the dining room.

As an admitted laptop addict, I can't imagine any situation where I'd do anything of the sort. Not even at a diner or chain restaurant. Ruvo is a nice, though not fine, restaurant. It just struck me as completely inappropriate.

Then again, maybe it bothered me so much exactly because I am an addict, and I thought it gave all of us a bad name.

Nice Stories on CSA and Greenwashing

I miss my CSA this year. I really do. With all of the crazy goings on this spring, what with an infant and all, we forgot to sign up either with Golden Earthworm or Garden of Eve. And I miss it. I miss getting that box filled with locally grown, organic produce.

I miss pulling odd or different looking vegetables out of there and thinking to myself "What is this and what can I do with it?"

Next year we'll be back in one. Especially with Jackson eating more and more things every day. We'll want him to have the best organic produce possible.

Why am I thinking about this today? I read a good story on CSA this morning over at canvas Magazine. That's why.

There is an even better article on greenwashing as well. Check it out.

Restaurant Review: Cittanuova (East Hampton)

I've never been to Milan (or anywhere in Italy for that matter) but sitting at a small table in Cittanuova in East Hampton, Nena and I got a small taste of one of Italy's most chic and modern cities — along with some terrific, affordable fare.

First, let me just mention that Cittanuova is an extremely versatile restaurant. Versatility isn't a trait that many restaurateurs shoot for, but it's on full display here. Looking for a bar with energy? Cittanuova has that. Want to eat outside? Cittanuova has two outdoor dining areas. Want to stop somewhere for coffee? Cittanuova is the perfect spot. Need an affordable spot for a date? Cittanuova offers great bang for the buck. Want to take your kids for gelato on a summer afternoon? You guessed it, they have a gelateria as well.

With this versatility comes a variety — and a lot of people — and while it's not a great spot for a quiet romantic dinner, it's bustling, lively crowd and sleek, modern interior offer a great dining experience if you're okay with a little noise. And on this night, we were.

Local With Local: Grilled Strawberry-Duck-Goat Cheese Pizza with Corey Creek Vineyards 2006 Rose

This edition of the "Local With Local" project I've started has me working again with chef Doug Gulija from The Plaza Cafe in Southampton. This time, I'm even more excited because the dish truly was a collaborative effort.

I wanted to highlight Corey Creek Vineyards's 2006 Rose, which has been Nena's favorite rose this summer. I was served a strawberry goat cheese mousse at a rose launch party earlier in the summer, so I suggested that to chef as a starting point. He wanted to do something grilled, because he likes rose with grilled fare and the next thing you know, we had come up with this pizza.

Recipe after the jump...

Restaurant Review: 1770 House (East Hampton, NY)

As someone who lives just west of the North Fork, I've explored the North Fork dining scene much more than I have the Hampton's scene. I'm also much more interested in the food, wine and service than I am any sort of Hamptons people-watching or soulless scenes.

On a recent visit to 1770 House in East Hampton, however I was given everything that I wanted and nothing I didn't.

Joined by my good friend M, we arrived a few moments ahead of schedule and were greeted by a friendly, but not fawning, host and escorted through a warmly decorated lounge and to our table. The décor in the dining room balances upscale sophistication with casual elegance. This sort of balance actually became a theme of sorts for the entire evening.

Seated in surprisingly comfortable wicker chairs, we were promptly presented with menus and the wine list. After some perusal, M and I thought we knew what we wanted until our server, who was attentive and engaging without being in our faces, mentioned a tasting menu with paired wines. Any time that a chef wants to walk you through his menu—displaying more of his talents than a few dishes could convey—I recommend doing it. You won't be disappointed. At least not if you do it at 1770 House under the watchful eye of chef Kevin Penner, formerly of Della Femina, and Matt Birnstill.

July 30: Winemaker Dinner With John Levenberg, Bedell Cellars/Corey Creek Vineyards

On July 30th at 6 p.m., Mora's Fine Wine and Spirts will host a winemaker's dinner with John Levenberg, winemaker at Bedell Cellars and Corey Creek Vineyards at Bliss restaurant in East Setauket.

I've met John on a few occasions and he is a young, energetic winemaker with great, diverse experience. He's also a lot of fun and I'm sure this dinner will be as well. The menu is:

Bay Scallop Risotto
Bedell Cellars “Main Road White” NV

Watermelon and Feta Salad
Corey Creek Vineyards 2006 "Domaine CC" Rose

Roasted Breast of Long Island Duck with White Bean Ragout and Cabernet Franc Reduction
Corey Creek Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc

Pot Roast and Pasta Sheet Millefeuille
Bedell Cellars 2005 Merlot and Bedell Cellars 2005 "Taste Red" Meritage

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Raspberry Glaze
Bedell Cellars Raspberry Dessert Wine

Seating is limited to 50. Price per person is $79.99 + tax which covers everything. Reservations must be prepaid. Sign up at www.moraswine.com.

June 30: Tour Peconic Bay

On June 30, join Long Island Traditions for our 3rd annual “Boating with the Baymen” tour, this year exploring the Peconics, where fishermen and baymen whose family histories date to the 1600s continue to work on the water, despite increasing obstacles. Space is limited and reservations are required!

The cost is $40/person, $20 for children under 16. The tour will take place from 4 to 7 pm. To reserve your spot call Long Island Traditions at (516) 767-8803 or visit www.longislandtraditions.org.

Deadline for registration is June 29. This program is sponsored in part by the New York State Council on the Arts and Suffolk County Office of Cultural Affairs.

(Photo courtesy of Edible East End)

Three Shinn Sips for Summer...and Breakfast to Boot

"There is no reason to produce wimpy little pink wines with no varietal character."

That's what David Page, co-owner of Shinn Estate Vineyards said when I asked him about his 2006 Rose ($16)--a much richer, bolder wine than many local bottlings. He's right, the strawberry- and watermelon-scented wine with a faint buttery note is far from wimpy. It's medium bodied and much rounder and fuller on the palate--but still balanced with gentle acidity and even a little tannic structure. While not the style I prefer, it's hard to argue with this wine's versatility. Page recommends it with "everything from lobster rolls on the beach to charred steaks in the backyard."

Two white wines--both summery and fresh--are also extremely food friendly--at tip of the cork to Page's pedigree as a chef.

On the nose, Shinn Estate Vineyards' 2006 Chardonnay ($18) is vaguely reminiscent of sauvignon blanc with grapefruit, lemon and hints of grassiness and minerals. Fresh-picked green apples and citrus dominate a simple but mouth-watering plate that is framed by briney minerality and plenty of acidity. A salad made with the season's best local produce, maybe some grilled shellfish and a bottle of this wine would make a nice summer lunch.

My favorite--by a substantial margin--is Shinn Estate Vineyards' 2006 First Fruit ($23) which is primarily sauvignon blanc, with just a squirt (4%) Semillon. Right out of the bottle, the nose is a little taut and doesn't offer much, but with a little coaxing, bright, fresh aromas of juicy pear citrus and sweet basil emerge. Medium bodied and flavorful the pear flavors are lip-smackingly delicious, with subtle ruby red grapefruit and terrific acidity. The herbal character of the grape is here, particularly on a surprisingly long minty-lime finish, but it's not aggressive or overbearing. Impeccable balance is on display here. Local seafood prays for this wine when it goes to sleep at night.

As good as these wines are, the first made by Shinn's new winemaker Juan Eduardo Micieli-Martinez--there is something even more exciting happening Shinn Estate.

Earlier this month, Page and his wife Barbara Shinn opened the Shinn Estate Farmhouse--a bed and breakfast right next to their vineyard, tasting room and winery.

Of the bed and breakfast, which is sure to become the premier one-stop Long Island wine destination, Page told me that "Integrating wine, food and lodging under the same roof allows wine lovers to actually 'be somewhere' when they visit us. Dodging in and out of one winery after another does not always create the sense of belonging that a small vineyard inn does. I expect that more wineries will be developing lodging and dining opportunities for their guests. The region needs to see more of this type of eco-friendly development in order to keep farming viable. Our local communities need to make every effort to give wineries the tools they need to accomplish this kind of preservation.

Of course, the chef in Page is excited about the new venture for other reasons as well. "I just got out of the kitchen after serving Crescent Farms smoked duck hash alongside Catapano goat cheese omelets to ravenous guests. How tough could life get? Having the opportunity to be a chef, farmer and winemaker on the same day, every day. That is a dream come true!"

Beer Podcast: Legends in New Suffolk

On today's show I tell you about my trip to Mr Beery's in Bethpage to try Moo Thunder!  I hopped on a train and made it to Mr Beery's just in time.  The beer club at Mr Beery's had almost drained the keg before I got there.

  Next on the show, I take the whole family on a trip out to Legends in New Suffolk.  Legens is a sports bar was some really excellent food.  They have about 30 or so taps and an extensive beer list that advertises more beers than they actually keep in their cellars.

  I tell you about the drinking space and the beers, and Denise will give you a description of the food.  The food was the real surprise.  I wasn't expecting such good grub at a sports bar.  If you haven't been out to New Suffolk.  This is a great day trip for anyone trolling the East End.

We'll wrap up the show with a Mixing It Up segment.  May was the month of Mexican Beer Cocktails.  Over the next few shows I'll be treating you to some commentary about beer concoctions with ingredients such as tomato juice, shrimp, and salsa.

When you finish listening, think about giving the show a helping hand.  Have you just visited one of Long Island's pubs or brewpubs?  Then send an email (donavanhall at gmail dot com) or an mp3 and tell me what's on tap, what's new, and what you liked and what you didn't.  Been to a good beer bar or beer store and spotted something that your fellow Long Island Beer Enthusiasts should know about?  Speak up!

Also check the Long Island Beer Calendar often.  If you have an event to put on the calendar, send me an email.

Next week... Beer Tasting Philosophy and a trip to the Flying Saucer in Houston

Listen: download the mp3 (10.5 MB, 12:24 mins) [other info]
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May's Local with Local Pairing

The goal of my new "Local with Local" series is to not only show how well Long Island food goes with Long Island wine, but also to make it easier for people to try putting the two together at home.

For our inaugural pairing, I've worked with Doug Gulija of Plaza Cafe to put together a delectable spring offering. I told him that I wanted to focus on sauvignon blanc--specifically the latest vintage from Channing Daughters Winery and this is what he came up with. He's known for his masterful work with seafood, and this looks delicious (even to someone who doesn't eat much seafood).

The dish is  Sauteed Local Monkfish Medallions with Baby Grilled Asparagus and Sorrel Hollandaise and it was inspired by the local sorrel Doug found at a local farm stand. And, Doug tells me that he's planning to put this on the menu, and while he doesn't have the 2006 CDW Sauvignon Blanc on his list, he does have the 2005 right now.

The recipe is available by clicking on the "Continue reading..." link below. The picture of this month's dish was taken by Ellen Watson.

Thinking About Local Wines in Local Restaurants

Visit most any winemaking region the world over and you'll find that restaurant wine lists are chock full of locally made wines. Go to a restaurant in Napa and you'll find wine lists dominated by Napa wines rather than Spanish ones. In Tuscany, you'll find Chianti and Super Tuscans, not Australian Shiraz. You get the idea.

But sit down at most East End restaurants and Long Island wines are far from the focus—if there are any on the list at all. I know that it makes me crazy when I'm out there and I want to drink a wine from a winery I'm not visiting that day and all I see on the list are names like Yellow Tail, Beringer, Mondavi and Cavit.

There are exceptions of course. Places like Fifth Season (Greenport) and North Fork Table (Southold) have lists with plenty of local options. Unfortunately, Fifth Season ignores many top bottles, but hey, at least they focus on local, right?

Sadly these types of forward-thinking restaurants are the exception rather than the rule however. Then again, is it really forward thinking if much of the world is already acting this way?

Many local winemakers and winery owners aren't happy about this situation, saying that local restaurants should support the wine industry better. Many restaurants respond by pointing to high prices and low demand as two major reasons they don’t.

Both sides of the argument are right—to a point. What is really needed is an partnership between the two groups. One founded in a common goal—financial success.

So how do we get there? Here’s my take.

Long Island Dines: Southampton Publick House

I turned 32 last Thursday, so I took the day off to spend it with Nena and Jackson. We rarely make it out to the Hamptons, particularly once the 'on season' starts, so I thought it would be fun to head out to the Hamptons, enjoy the beautiful day and maybe have a tasty lunch somewhere.

As we drove out, I didn't have any particular restaurant in mind, but then we drove by Southampton Publick House, a place that I've wanted to try for a long time now. I've been a fan of their beer for quite a while and I'd heard some good things about the restaurant too. And, because it was my birthday, my loving wife (who avoids beer almost at all costs) suggested we go.

We were there for lunch, and it was only our first time there, but at this point I'd still suggest that you go there for the beer, not the food.

The experience doesn't warrant a full review, but here are some quick-hit positives and negatives:

• Positive: I really love the beers. I had a Secret Ale (their flagship beer) and a Golden Lager. I also sampled their Double White after Nena tried it. If you haven't tried the beers, track them down and try them.
• Negative: I ordered a blackened duck salad, because it sounded good and was one of the few non-standard pub fare items on the menu. The duck came out cooked very (very) well done, rendering it tough and barely recognizable as duck. It was a simple salad of lettuce, duck, tomatoes, green apple and goat cheese. With the duck overcooked, and the tomatoes flavorless, there wasn't much saving this salad. They should have at least tossed all of the ingredients together so the dressing covered the apple slices, which were slightly browned.
• Positive: The place is very baby friendly. The restaurant was pretty empty because it was a Thursday and it's not Hamptons season yet, so we had a back dining area pretty much to ourselves. Then again, Jackson didn't wake up until we were leaving.
• Negative: Nena ordered mussels steamed in beer with andouille sausage. She thought there was too much sausage and that it completely overpowered the mussels.
• Positive: Did I mention the beer? Seriously though, our server was great and so was the hostess. Good service can make a meal like this one bearable. Of course, so can good beer.

We'll go back some time. Hopefully the kitchen's "A team" is cooking next time...I can only assume they weren't on this visit.

 

Can't Wait for My Birthday

Normally, I try to downplay my birthday. I really don't like the attention of big parties and the like. I've never been someone that enjoys the lime light.

But this year, I'm very excited about my birthday.

Why?

Nena told me recently that she's taking me to North Fork Table & Inn on the 28th for dinner to celebrate. That's why.

Every since it opened, I've been hearing from local winemakers and wine types that this is the best restaurant on the North Fork and very well may be the best restaurant on Long Island already.

But, between Nena being pregnant and now our little guy, we just haven't made it there. But, my loving wife has lined up a trio of babysitters (three good friends).

The focus at NFT is set squarely on local bounty...seafood, produce and wines. And the chefs at the help are celebrated and extremely talented as well. Before coming to Long Island, executive chef, Gerry Hayden ran Aureole and Amuse in Manhattan. And pastry chef Claudia Fleming was the pastry chef at Gramercy Tavern and won the James Beard Award as Pastry Chef of the Year in 2000.

You can expect a full report later this month. I can't wait.

Long Island Dines: Andrew's by the Pond

Sunday night, Nena and I had our first baby sitter (thanks MIL) and were finally able to enjoy our first meal out--just the two of us--in several months.

After Nena called our favorite local restaurant, La Plage, several times at several different times of day (both before and during dinner service) and nobody picked up, including a machine, we settled on another local restaurant that we've enjoyed in the past--Andrew's by the Pond in Wading River.

We looked forward to the 6:00 p.m. reservation for well over a week, which is a sign of how our lives have changed. A 6 p.m. reservation?!?!

Anyway, it really didn't matter where we went or when, it was good just to get out and get some time with just the two of us.

When we arrived, we definitely did not need that reservation. There were plenty of tables and we were seated immediately. I didn't take any notes or pictures on this dining excursion, sorry guys, but here are some thoughts on our trip to Andrew's.

Long Island Wine Appreciation Month at Asta Wine Cafe (Huntington, NY)

Asta Wine Cafe and Art Gallery is a cafe in Huntington Village, with a wine list that is almost exclusively Long Island Wines -- which is cool in my book.

Unfortunately, their customers in their silly snobbishness, aren't buying into the concept. I can only call it snobbishness, because there are plenty of delicious wines made on Long Island (but I'm preaching to the choir here, right?) Would their customers rather have Beringer White Zin and Yellowtail Shiraz?

Apparently that is the case because Asta is considering scrapping their LI-only concept and moving to an international list. But it's not a done deal yet.

On January 17 from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. all of the local wineries that are on the list will be featured at their  monthly artist reception.  It will also serve as the the kickoff party for the Long Island Wine Appreciation Month at Asta from January 17 through February 14. 

Asta is the only restaurant, outside the East End, that supports LI wines. We need to have more local eateries support the local wine industry.

I haven't eaten there yet, but (baby willing) I hope to check it out during this promotion. You should to.

Looking at their wine list online, I'd recommend trying:

• Paumanok Vineyards 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
• Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Riesling
• Schneider Vineyards 2004 Cab Franc
• Comtesse Therese 2003 Hungarian Oak Merlot

There are some sweetish and lesser wines on the list too, but there are plenty of good wines here.

A Long Island Holiday Brew Round-Up

By Contributing Columnist Donavan Hall

In the last couple of days I've made partial rounds of our Island's brewpubs to see what the brewers have on tap for us this holiday season.  John Harvard's in Lake Grove has my favorite locally brewed holiday ale, the Holiday Red.  The best thing about this ale is that it's fully bodied, malty, and isn't a spice tea.  You might recall how much I like pumpkin spice ales from my last contribution.  I would probably like spiced beers more if the spices were used more subtly to finesse the beer's natural flavor rather than as decongestant.

Over at the Brickhouse in Patchogue you'll find the Blitzen on tap.  This is a spiced up version of their red ale with the malt bill ratcheted up to give this Winter warmer a decent kick at 7.3 percent alcohol by volume.  If you are having two of these make sure you call a cab.

The Blitzen is fresh right now and probably at its peak so get over to the Brickhouse before "the day" if you want to try this beer at its best.  What you'll taste is a scoop of malt and a dash of holiday spice.  While I understand the reason for the prominence of the spice character (namely, so that the novelty seekers can get a smack in the tongue even if their palates are fatigued) I find the spice in the Blitzen a little over the top for my taste.  The spices end up being a little harsh in the back of the throat after you've made it halfway through the pint.

If you can't make it to your local brewpub in the next few days, keep an eye out for the Blue Point Winter Ale.  It's available in fine bars, pubs, and restaurants (and at grocery stores and beer stores in the bottle) all across the Island.  This beer is dark and malty and had no spices in it.  (If you are interested, check out the review of this beer that I wrote last year.)  In fact, the Blue Point Winter Ale is a good seasonal drinking beer.  I usually keep several bottles in the beer cellar to enjoy with a home cooked meal or to relax with in front of the fire.

Before signing off, I'll give you a bonus.  I went into New York City last weekend and passed some time while waiting for a train at The Ginger Man (on 36th Street just east of 5th Avenue on the north side of the street).  I had a pint of Sly Fox's Christmas Ale.  (Sly Fox is over in Pennsylvania, but there's a local connection.  Southampton Publik House is using Sly Fox's brewery to produce their 750 ml corked and caged series of beers.)  Sly Fox's Christmas Ale is another variation of the Pale Ale with spices holiday brew.  It alone isn't worth a trip into the City, but if you find yourself wandering around Manhattan you'll be able to find a few holiday beers that haven't made their way out on to the Island yet, like Very Bad Elf or Mad Elf from Tröeg's Brewery in Pennsylvania.  And keep you eyes pealed for Santa's Butt.

Chef Phillipe Corbet Leaves Bouley for Oscar's on Long Island

I just got an email from the owner of Oscar's Restaurant & Bar in St. James, NY.

The news he shared is pretty exciting. Chef Phillipe Corbet has left his position as Executive Chef at Bouley in Manhattan to become a Principal & Chef at Oscar's. Chef Corbet, a native of France & veteran of several Michelin rated restaurants in France, began his American restaurant career as Executive Sous Chef at Stone Creek Inn in East Quogue, NY. He left Stone Creek as Chef de Cuisine to accept the Executive Chef position at Bouley where he oversaw and directed the kitchen & menu at one of Manhattan's top five rated restaurants.

He looks forward to marrying his classic French training, the contemporary global style required for a high-profile Manhattan restaurant, and local and regional influences to provide a distinct cuisine which is uncomplicated at first glance but is layered with subtleties and complexity and can be appreciated by the “Foodie” and casual diner alike.

I've only eaten at Oscar's once, but this sure seems like a reason to go back.

Read Local: New Long Island Magazine -- canvas

Long Island has more than its share of publications -- too many in fact (and this coming from a guy who writes or has written for several of them). So many of them are the same -- too many advertisements and too few interesting stories.

Long Island's newest magazine, canvas, is a little different. For one, the production value is through the roof compared to so many of the ad-supported papers in these parts.

Two, the editor isn't some just-out-of-college rookie or crazy person without any real talent. canvas' editor, Ramin Ganeshram is an experienced journalist, editor and cookbook author with strong ideals and integrity.

Of course, I may be a little biased. A good friend of mine is the associate publisher and I'm working on the project as well. But, bias or no, I'd never laud -- or participate -- in a project I didn't believe in.

Check out their preview issue. And keep an eye out for their official launch in December.