New York Cork Report

A Visit to C'est Cheese (Port Jefferson, NY)

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Artisanal cheese has made its way to the forefront of the local food movement. Farmstead cheesemakers elevate the milk from their farms, and the rock star cheesemonger expounds upon the history, the background, and unique qualities of that particular cheese. So what is the best way to accomplish this? 

Specialty cheese shops are all over New York City and surrounding areas to bring a piece of the farm to your table, but is that enough to distinguish one shop from another? If the quality of the product is essentially the same across the board, and the level of care is (in a good shop) similar as well, then what sets one shop apart from another?

C’est Cheese in Port Jefferson, NY taking a unique approach that may prove to establish itself as a destination point for cheese lovers out on Long Island. 

Walking in, the cheese counter is at the front of the store off to the right. The cheese looks well cared for, offering a variety of milks and styles from across the globe. On my recent visit, the American section was pretty limited in comparison to the rest of the case. I hope that they expand their selection to incorporate some of the great American-made cheeses that are made not only in the Northeast, but the rest of the country.

In looking at the rest of the place in comparison to the cheese case, I can see that the focus goes well beyond a simple retail cut-and-wrap shop.

Want to come in to taste and buy some cheese to take home? Perfect. They have cheesemongers there ready to serve, offer suggestions, and answer your cheese-related questions. 

Curious about cheese and beverage pairings? C’est Cheese has several taps with local beer, as well as wine available. Have them pull a pint for you, or pour a glass, and enjoy it with your custom created cheese plate.

The best way to describe this place is to classify it as a “Cheese Tavern.”

I really like the focus of C’est Cheese. There are a variety of ways to highlight the diverse qualities of cheese, and lovers of cheese have a chance to explore this from a variety of angles. Whether through beverage pairings, incorporated into a dish, or straight from the case, this shop in Port Jefferson is on the right track. I look forward to visiting again in a few months to see how this shop is fully realized.

 

Your Ultimate Guide to Pairing Beer and Cheese

By Julia Burke, Beer Editor and Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Some say the best match for cheese is wine. We say those people are probably the ones who thought Buttercup should’ve stuck with Prince Humperdinck in The Princess Bride.

Beer and cheese is where it’s at, folks and with the holidays approaching, you may want to treat your guests and family to this killer combination. But pairing is always a challenge, and you may be asking yourselves, “But doesn’t all beer go with all cheese? Aren’t they both delicious and snackable? Why should I care about specific pairings?”

As your friendly Cork Report beer and cheese editors, we are here to demonstrate the awesome power of a fantastic beer and cheese match with a list of must-try ideas. Julia’s well versed in the classic beer and cheese matchups, but with Aaron’s off-the-hook cheese expertise are are also able to suggest more adventurous matches too. Of course, we list New York examples of all beers and mostly New York cheeses, though we did include a few out-of-state cheeses for educational purposes and diversity’s sake.

For starters, a little pairing 101. Much like with any craft beverage and food pairing, there are a few guidelines to learn and then break as you see fit. The key principle, balance, is a cinch here: beer has plenty of acidity thanks to those glorious hops and that refreshing carbonation; in addition it may have a little sweetness, a lot, or almost none depending on the malt bill, alcohol content, and additives if any (such as fruit or chocolate). These qualities balance it beautifully with the rich and creamy taste of cheese; fine-tuning the pairing just means considering the next two factors -- texture and flavor profile.

Texture and mouthfeel are all about the feel and body of your beer and cheese. The sharp bitter roast of a stout or the fierce pucker of many Belgian-style sours and Bretted beers will cut right through an incredibly buttery, creamy cheese, while a diacetyl-heavy or oaked beer might be too much.

Finally, specific flavors can be the difference between a good and a great pairing. While hops impart citrusy, piney, or even resiny notes, malt produces flavors like chocolate, peanut butter, and licorice. Extras like roast, oak aging, fruit, and additives like juniper and spices are often some of the most potent characteristics of a beer.

Yeast imparts a flavor that can range from bubblegum-fruity to musky, funky, and sour, and it makes for some of the most amazing beer and cheese combos. If you’re stuck in a rut with beer or cheese it’s time to experiment with some of the crazier flavors out there. Check out our ideas, then try some of your own!

Beer Style: India Pale Ale (IPA)

This beloved style combines hop bitterness and citrusy fruit with moderate to substantial alcohol and subtle malt. We love Ithaca Beer Company's Flower Power, Sixpoint Bengali, and Captain Lawrence IPA. IPAs are known to love an aged cheddar cheese like Montgomery Cheddar to coat the palate and cut that bitterness. Aaron, a hop hound, recently had Bengali Tiger with a funky English cheddar (Keen’s Cheddar to be exact) and declares it a brilliant pairing.

Beer Style: Chocolate Stout

Rich and roasty and no slouch in the alcohol department, chocolate stouts and cheese make a great dessert. We like Brooklyn Brewery's Chocolate Stout and Southern Tier Choklat. Julia loves a smoky chocolate stout with an equally smoked gouda or a light manchego, a nutty Spanish cheese. Aaron occasionally likes a triple cream with a chocolaty stout. “Doesn't always work, but very nice indeed” when it does, he says.

During the Holidays last year, Aaron paired Mt. Tam (A triple cream from Cowgirl Creamery in California) with an Imperial Stout from Kansas City’s Boulevard Brewery. The pairing was just fantastic. Chocolate and cream all rolled into one.

Beer Style: Winter Seasonal

Try Saranac Big Moose Ale, Flying Bison Blizzard Bock, or Captain Lawrence Nor'Easter. As Aaron points out, this style depends heavily on the spice level: anything heavy on orange peel or coriander, and he would say a blue cheese works best. You definitely need a cheese that has some bite to it. Anything mild or delicate will fade into the background. For maltier and less spicy styles, Julia likes a bacon smoked gouda or other heartier smoked cheese to go with meats.

Beer Style: Saison or Belgian Pale

This style has exploded in New York recently; we love Ommegang BPA, Three Heads Ontario Coast, Southampton Saison, and Ommegang Hennepin. Aaron loves Hennepin with most cheeses, as it’s versatile enough to stand up to just about anything. Julia's favorites are funky French styles like Port Salut or Chaume (Warning: open this cheese and you will not be socially acceptable for the rest of the evening. Open it alone or with a long-term partner only.)

Beer Style: Sour Beers

Pucker up: sours are absolutely amazing with a wide variety of cheeses. Ithaca Beer Company is the New York sour master, with classics Brute and Le Bleu; we also love Southampton Cuvee des Fleurs. Both Aaron and Julia love goat cheese with this style: they tried a fresh Catapano goat with Cuvee des Fleurs at last year's Wines/Beers of the Year and were in love.

Beer Style: Hefeweizen

Try Brooklyner Weisse, Butternuts Heinnieweisse, or Southern Tier Heavy Weizen for a New York take on this classic Old World style. A sexy beer in and of itself, this is a dream pairing for many cheeses. Julia loves Hefe with just about any cheese but especially loves it with goat cheese on toast points to accompany a light salad; a camembert or other delicate creamy cheese is also excellent.

Aaron likes a young cheddar; a mellow example is Mecox Bay Cheddar from Long Island. The cheddar from Mecox has a nice and easy finish that really highlights the yeasty qualities of this style. He also recommends Three Corner Field Farm sheep’s milk cheese.  A fresh button of “Brebis Blanche” and a cool wheat beer go hand-in-hand any day of the week.

Sprout Creek Farm: Redux

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

I recently had the opportunity to attend the annual Taste of the Hudson Valley. Each year, local restaurants and artisans are given the opportunity to shine as they pair a couple of dishes with wine, beer, or other beverages of their choosing. The event is always well-attended as ticket holders move from table to table, chat with local chefs, sip wine, and comment on the successfulness of a particular pairing. 

It’s a great time, but the purpose of this post is not to talk about the use of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, butternut squash soup, or local wine and beer. This cheese geek found the Sprout Creek Farm table, and I was anxious to chat with the cheesemaker to delve a bit deeper behind the scenes.

If you recall, I have reviewed a couple of Sprout Creek cheeses in the past. You can read that post here. Although the cheeses were well-made, it seemed that something was missing. I attributed it to improper storage at the cheese shop, and looked forward to another opportunity to taste these cheeses under more optimal circumstances. The time was now…

I was approached by Colin the cheesemaker as soon as I came up to the table. I am guessing that the lone person taking pictures of cheese gave away the fact that I was, shall we say, different than the standard attendee… We immediately hit it off as we began to discuss cheesemaking, Holstein vs. Brown Swiss, whey brining techniques, and the evolution of the Sprout Creek portfolio.

Colin has been with Sprout Creek for about six years. The enthusiasm and passion for his craft is immediately apparent upon meeting him. It’s perfectly clear that he loves what he does. 

When he first arrived at Sprout Creek, he inherited what I would call “legacy cheeses” including the Toussaint and Barat. These are probably the two standouts as far as what they offer. During his time there, he has expanded their offerings to 25 different cheeses. That’s a quite a variety. Some are probably more successful than others and I think he would agree with that.

It is difficult to diversify with cheese to the point where everything that comes out of the hoop is special. Most cheesemakers will focus on one or two different styles and perfect them to the best of their ability before expanding. A perfect example of this is Uplands Cheese Co. in Wisconsin. Pleasant Ridge Reserve has been one of America’s best cheeses for quite a while. It has won Best in Show at the ACS competition three times in the past 10 years. That is the only cheese that the cheesemaker has focused on for several years until just recently. Rush Creek Reserve, a fantastic cheese akin to Vacherin Mont D’Or, just hit the shops this past year and has been received with great acclaim. That’s it. Two cheeses.

Sprout Creek offers 25. 

Some cheesemakers fall into the trap of trying to do too much in an effort to appease everyone. They make a bloomy rind, a hard cheese, fresh chèvre, a blue, washed-rind, etc… so that there is something for everyone. I don’t fault them for that. I think it is difficult sometimes for craftsman to find their voice so-to-speak. Even with all of the offerings that Sprout Creek has, I think that Colin is finding his voice, specifically through a fantastic goat’s milk cheese that he had on display called Madeline.

He had a gorgeous full wheel on display cut in half.  This cheese is made seasonally with 100% Nubian goat’s milk. The interior porcelain paste sparked a nice contrast with the light gray rind that looked a bit dusty. It gave a rustic appearance, soliciting a sort of farm-to-table feel given the atmosphere. There was a slight must on the nose, with a touch of sweet grass in the background. The firm texture dissolves easily on the tongue, with a taste of roasted almonds, herbs, butter, and…earth. That descriptor is definitely over-used when describing cheese, but it is completely appropriate in describing this delicate cheese. 

I have to admit that I was really surprised by this cheese. Incredibly unique and distinctive in comparison to the other cheeses that Sprout Creek has to offer. It’s rather exciting, to be honest. Based on the other times I have tried Sprout Creek cheeses, I thought I knew what to expect. This is different. 

When we parted ways, I talked with Colin about paying a visit and helping out in the make room. Colin is not resting on the laurels that have made Sprout Creek the success that it is in the Hudson Valley. The Madeline confirms that for me. Murray’s in NYC just picked it up. As other distributors and mongers are given an opportunity to taste, I have a feeling that you will soon see it in a shop near you. Be on the lookout.

 

The State of New York Cheese

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor
Photo courtesy of newyorkcheese.org

“Change is difficult. If it were easy, then everyone and everything would be perfect…” 

I have heard these words (or some variation) many times throughout my life as I am sure that many of you have as well. Making changes is a way of life for us as we strive to learn, grow, and succeed. Now, you are probably asking yourself why the Cheese Editor is waxing philosophical at the top of a post but I assure you; this speaks directly to the state of New York cheese.

For many years, New York has been one of the top five producers of milk in this country. Beautiful grass makes for happy cows and plenty of good milk. Historically, dairy farming and industrial cheese has been a major factor in the New York dairy-farming industry. Years ago, this was the way of life upstate. Dairy farms produced milk and sold it to large-milk buying cities such as Manhattan. Farming was a way of life by which the men and women could provide for their families and live out a hard-working, yet comfortable life.

A shift began sometime in the 1980s and 1990s. The commodity milk market consolidated. Farmers no longer had a say in what they were paid for their milk. They either stepped in line with the predatory practices of big business (such as Dean Foods who accounts for about 85% of the market) and sold their milk for far less, or they didn’t sell it to anyone. Period. No one else was buying. Big Business convinced the dairy farmers that commodity milk would work if they made a few changes. “Double your herd and you will be fine.” Who wouldn’t want to believe that? Farmers invested more capital and expanded their herd in an effort to keep up.

At the same time, state government began to shift focus on the philosophy of rural development. Having a huge urban center like New York City is an advantage and a disadvantage for the surrounding areas. With such a confluence of people, there are bound to be issues regarding housing and infrastructure. Unfortunately, rather than invest funding into the upstate farming culture, prisons became more and more a necessity to accommodate the population. 

Dairy farms were shoved to the wayside as prisons and prison jobs pushed to the forefront. Farming jobs did not have the draw next to the prisons in the same area paying $30 per hour. Upstate workers and kids from farming families began to escape to the prisons, out to the cities and elsewhere in order to make a living. 

Farming was no longer the viable option that it once was when their grandparents worked the land. As a result, the farms began to close.

Commodity milk and its effect on the farming culture had a similar effect in Vermont, but with a different path. Be it the “back to the land” movement from what can be considered a liberal government, or the comfort lobbying from suburbanites leaving the city to get back in touch with nature, Vermont saw the downfall of commodity milk pricing and began a transition towards other lucrative means such as cheesemaking. Dairy farmers may not have control over milk market pricing, but they could control and regulate milk price per pound in the form of cheese.  

Vermont is clearly smaller and less diverse than New York State, so it only stands to reason that they would feel the aftereffects of these predatory practices before a large state like New York. With the large supply and demand variable of New York City, coupled with the “double your herd” message coming from Big Business, New Yorkdairy farmers held on through the collapse in order to take advantage of the revenue stream opportunity that the city presented. But they held on to no avail. 

Commodity milk paid less and less for milk. Farming culture moved west to the large expanses of cheap land that the Midwest offers, and the culture collapsed. New York didn’t have the same transition period and the foresight to change as their neighbors. They were either stuck in a cycle of depleting return, or they closed.

So this brings us back to the question, “What is the state of New York cheese?”  The answer, according to experts such as Tia Keenan (chef fromager and well-respected authority on all things milk and cheese), is that New York is in a bit of a transition period. Dairy farmers are exploring options, learning about cheesemaking, and finding ways to take advantage of the quality of their grass and milk. We have some really great cheesemakers here in New York State -- Old Chatham, 3-Corners Field Farm, Mecox, Nettle Meadow and Rainbeau Ridge to name but a few. 

New York is still evolving and creating an identity when it comes to artisan cheese. The New York Artisan Farmstead & Artisan Cheese Makers Guild lists 36 members, and that number is growing. More and more classes are available for dairy farmers that want to learn. Portable cheesemaking facilities like the CheeseMobile in Sullivan County -- a state approved trailer with a certified “make-room” in the back -- come directly to the farmer, as opposed to the farmer renting a commercial kitchen and finding a way to transport their milk in a safe manner. 

The resources are becoming more readily available. The financial upswing is evident. More educational venues, along with governmental subsidy, could help the number of cheesemakers in this state grow exponentially.

With the recent devastation from hurricane Irene it is apparent that farming in this state has some difficult times ahead. Farms are underwater, cows have been lost, and lack of winter hay due to flooding only compounds the issue further. 

It is going to be months before some of these farms recover (if at all in some cases). The current state of New York cheese is definitely weathering through some growing pains, but the future remains bright.

Cheese Review: Mecox Bay Dairy Sigit

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

I have a problem with Alpine-style cheeses. And when I say “problem,” I should probably say “obsession.” 

I still remember the first time that I ever had a Rolf Beeler (incredibly important Swiss affineur) 18 month aged Gruyère and it changed my outlook on everything regarding cheese. 

I was sitting at my kitchen table in Queens when I had my first taste. It immediately took me back to my time spent in Switzerland while studying and singing in Europe. The crisp, mountain air, the white snow interspersed with patches of green grass, the picture-perfect chalets… That first bite hit me with the realization that good cheese shows us a “sense of place.”  

Traditionally these cheeses were made with summer milk from collective herds that graze high in the Alps.  The herds and the people tending them would travel short distances from the valleys into the mountains to graze on the new and fresh flowers and grasses throughout the area. This seasonal tradition of Transhumance had a direct effect on the quality, taste and unique character of the milk that the cheesemakers had to work with. 

Sigit is Mecox Bay Dairy’s foray into this particular style. Situated in Bridgehampton, NY, the Ludlow family (originally potato farmers) set their sights on making small batch, artisanal cheese in 2003. Their small herd of Jersey cows and location near Mecox bay and Swan Creek provides that perfect “sense of place” for the Eastern Long Island community.

The golden color of the paste indicates to me that this cheese is made from summer milk. The high levels of beta carotene in spring and summer grasses give the milk a golden-yellow color. Although the paste is drier than I would have thought (even for a cheese aged approximately 18 months), the amino acid crystallization (the crunchy bits that we all know and love) spreads throughout. 

I don’t get much on the nose…maybe a hint of grass, but nothing very pronounced or overwhelming for me with this wedge.

The taste is exactly what I expect: roasted almonds, rich cream and even a touch of buttered toast.  The only thing lacking for me is that I would like more salt.  An extra touch of salt for me would allow the complexity to develop on the tongue, and provide an even longer finish.

Chances are that most people who are well-versed in the Long Island food and wine scene have had some exposure to the cheeses from Mecox. I have to say that up until I moved to Queens and began my frequent trips out to the East End, I had not heard of the Ludlow family, Mecox Dairy, or the quality cheeses that they make. A travesty really… 

I don’t know if it was a question of distribution, supply, or even both, but the cheeses from Mecox (Sigit included) deserve the opportunity to give everyone a chance to taste a little piece of Mecox Bay in Eastern Long Island.

New York Cheese: Kunik from Nettle Meadow Farm

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

One of the things I love most about the cheese made in New York state is the diversity. We have cheesemakers all over this great state, from Long Island to the shores of the Finger Lakes,  to the Hudson Valley that strive to bring unique and high-quality products to your cheese board and table.  

Even though we have historically been a large producer of industrial cheese (think Polly-O), it is the smaller and artisanal production that is slowly but surely finding its way to the forefront. 

Whenever I talk or write about New York cheeses, I am invariably asked who I think makes the best cheese. Even though I have mentioned this cheese many times in previous posts, and almost always recommend it when offering suggestions, I took a look and was surprised that I have never devoted a post to what I consider to be one of the best (if not the best) cheese made in New York. 

Kunik from Nettle Meadow Farm is a gorgeous expression that encapsulates a sense of place into a cheese meant to be shared and experienced with family and friends.

Nettle Meadow is a 50-acre farm in upstate New York just south of the Adirondack Mountains that is committed to happy and healthy animals, natural ingredients and hand-crafted, artisan cheese.

An environment with happy and healthy animals is a primary tenet that most cheesemakers embrace and uphold in order to create the best cheese possible. Lorraine Lambiase and Sheila Flanagan, the owners and operators of the farm, even house an animal sanctuary where retired and geriatric animals can live out their years in relative comfort, health and happiness. Animal welfare at Nettle Meadow is not taken lightly…

Kunik is a triple cream that is made from 75% goat’s milk and 25% Jersey cow cream. The difference between a Triple Cream and your standard Double Cream or Brie lies primarily in the percentage of butterfat.  A Triple Cream must have at least 75% butterfat in order to be classified as such. High-moisture cheeses like this have a great deal of water weight so even though 75% sounds high, this is relatively small if you compare similar portions of this to a hard cheese like cheddar or Gruyere.

The combination of goat’s milk with Jersey cow cream, in my mind, is what sets this cheese apart from others made in a similar style. The two components married together provide such a wonderful depth of flavor, that you would swear that you are eating something akin to freshly churned butter blended with cream cheese and a hint of crème fraiche. 

The bloomy white rind is surprisingly delicate considering the density of the cheese contained within. The unctuous texture coats your tongue with a clean and bright flavor that continues to build with each bite. The finish is long, as is typical of this style, but the slight tang from the goat’s milk makes this all the more interesting.

Kunik is completely unique and unlike any other made in a similar style either here or abroad; and it is hand-made on a small farm in Warrensburg, New York. I would put it up against any other Triple that is made today. It is that good. 

You can pair this with a crisp sparkling wine, an herbaceous sauvignon blanc, or even a rich and chocolaty stout or porter (think dessert). 

If your local cheese shop does not carry this cheese for you to try, report them to the authorities.  

 

Berle Farms "Berleburg"

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Berle Farm in Hoosick, NY is a certified organic farm that produces seasonal and sustainable goods such as hand-stirred cheeses and yogurt as well as pastured beef.

When Lucy’s Whey, the cheese shop where I work part time, first started carrying this cheese at the Chelsea Market shop, it was made and shipped under a different name -- Bovinaburg.

After some consideration and discussion, “Bovinaburg” became “Berleburg” and it has been a staple ever since.

I have not had a chance to meet the cheesemaker Beatrice Berle yet, but I look forward to hopefully visiting her farm one day and witnessing her operation first hand.

She is dedicated to the environment and healthy farm practices. I am interested to see if this has an impact on her milking and cheesemaking process in comparison to some of the other farms and creameries that I have worked with and visited.

Berleburg has a straw-colored, semi-firm paste that is fairly smooth with a couple of mechanical openings here and there. 

This is a very mild, snacking cheese, suitable for melting, a cheese plate or even a sandwich. Although not very complex, the finish is, interestingly enough, like buttered popcorn.

For me, Berleburg is “comforting,”  in that it reminds me of the cheese that I ate growing up, but with a little something extra.  Definitely worth a try if you happen to come across it.

Keeley's Cheese Co: A New Voice For New York Cheese

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Outside of the state, New York is known for your basic white cheddar. Nothing complex, nothing earth shattering…just a good solid cheese. 

Lucky for us, there are several cheesemakers out there who are on a path to change that... and I get excited about the progress within the cheese world when I see young and exciting cheesemakers enter the scene.

Keeley McGarr of Keeley’s Cheese Co. in King Ferry on Cayuga Lake is one of those individuals making a difference.

When Keely first studied Animal Science at the University of Vermont, she didn’t necessarily plan to become cheesemaker.  The idea was to study at the University to help out more at home on the family farm. After all, milking approximately 185 Holsteins and Jerseys on a daily basis takes quite a bit of knowledge and experience in supply management. 

But, the dairy industry as a whole is in a bit of a crisis right now.

As I have mentioned in other posts, dairy farmers have no say at all in their milk pricing. The co-op has a set price, and the farmer either sells it at that price, or doesn’t. This is a pressing concern as individual farms continue to try and develop price strategies and business models. 

After a work-study program at Shelburne Farms in Vermont, and taking a couple of classes at the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese (VIAC), it soon became apparent to Keeley that the idea of becoming a cheesemaker was worth exploring.

Knowing that New York does not have many washed-rind cheeses, and being a fan of softer cheeses in general, Keely decided to intern at the famed Gubbeen’s in Ireland.

Gubbeen’s award-winning cheese is a surface-ripened cheese that has been produced since 1979. While there, Keely learned their processes and returned to New York to apply what she learned. After some experimentation, Keeley’s Cheese Co. started producing cheese in March of 2010.

“Across the Pond” is an interesting washed-rind cheese that has a mature complexity, despite the short time it has been on the market.

Aged for 2-3 months in their natural cellar, the sticky orange rind is wonderfully pungent, but not to a point that would turn the beginning cheese lover away from the board. At room temperature, the semi-soft paste becomes unctuous and coats the tongue with a buttery flavor with a hint of yeast on the finish. There is an earthiness that I really like about this cheese. It doesn’t hit you over the head right from the start. It develops slowly, and culminates with a finish that keeps you reaching for more. 

This cheese is a perfect pair to the wonderful rieslings of the region. The wine's fresh acidity will provide a bright counter to the rich and creamy paste, and will continually refresh the palate for another bite.

“It all starts with the milk,” said Keeley, as she explained her process to me over the phone. The McGarr Farm has a rotational grazing program in place that has a tremendous affect on the overall quality of their milk. 

This is a true Farmstead product in that all of the milk used for cheesemaking comes from their family herd.  The herd is on grass from April to October with some corn, grain and hay rationed in as well. Today, only 3% of the milk is used for cheesemaking purposes. 

Keely plans to make cheese year round, with adjustments made throughout the year, as the fat content and character of the milk changes with the seasons.

When I asked her about the Finger Lakes Cheese Trail, Keeley was excited about the prospects and future events in the works. Their farm is just down the road from King Ferry Winery and Keely is already experimenting with wine washes from their winery. The relationship between wine and cheese will continue to be explored in the months to come.  With the number of events that have been planned in conjunction with the various wine trails, and the open house events that will begin this coming May, Finger Lakes Turophiles have a lot to be excited about. 

Keeley’s cheeses can be found in Farmer’s Markets and select shops throughout the state.

 

 

A Trio of New York Cheeses Impress at NYCR Wines of the Year Tasting

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor
Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography

As you know by now, the NYCR team gathered  a couple weeks ago for the 2010 Wines of the Year tasting. As a member of the editorial team, I was fortunate enough to be a part of the group this year.

In addition to the wine, several beers were put forth for a Beer of the Year tasting. It was a great assortment of flavors and styles which provided a perfect vehicle for some cheese pairings.

That's where I come in.

As I've mentioned before, I think that beer and cheese is a superior match to wine and cheese. Not that cheese and wine do not work well together, but I think that it's more challenging because the tannins, fruit and level of acidity provide more opportunity for profile clashes. 

When the pairing is right, it absolutely sings. When it’s not, it can be pretty bad to say the least.

Beer is a great pairing for pretty much every style of cheese that is made.The effervescence generally cuts through the coating of fat left on your tongue allowing the flavors of the cheese and beer to mingle and balance. It was with that in mind that I decided to pick a few cheeses made in NY to see how they fared.

For the first cheese, I wanted something fresh and mild, but with more character than a simple chevre. 

“Brebis Blanche” from 3-Corner Field Farm (pictured center) was an absolute treat and the star of the board for the evening.  This fresh sheep’s milk cheese is a lactic cheese made very similar to a chevre, but much more dense and flavorful. Karen the cheesemaker has explained to me that you don’t get as much yield from sheep’s milk as you do from a goat or cow, but the density of the milk solids provide complexity in texture and richer flavor. 

I loved this cheese with the Belgian-style sour my colleague, beer editor Julia Burke, chose as a finalist. The lemony tartness from the ale mixed with the soft and smooth paste from the cheese was a real hit for everyone.

“Hudson Red” from Twin Maple Farm in Ghent, NY (pictured right) is one of my favorite washed-rind cheeses.  The pungent and sticky exterior is wonderfully balanced by a thick, creamy and surprisingly sweet paste. The  mouth feel from this cheese is so unctuous at room temp that it was easily able to stand up to this year’s NYCR Beer of the Year -- The House Abbott 12 from Southampton Publick House.

“Kunik” from Nettle Meadow Goat Farm in Thurman, NY (pictured left) is considered by most (myself included) as one of the best cheeses that New York State has to offer. This triple cream with a soft and bloomy rind is made with a mixture of cow’s milk cream and goat’s milk, a mixture that takes the complexity and tanginess of goat’s milk and rounds it out with the rich and buttery taste from the cream. It paired well with most of the beers, particularly with a Saison-Brett that I happened to bring from Kansas City’ Boulevard Brewery.

Overall, I think everyone was surprised by the level of quality cheeses coming out of New York. There are many fine cheesemakers who make top-tier cheeses here, but they may not receive as much recognition as some of the other cheese making states in the country such as Vermont, California and Wisconsin.

As cheese making here in the states continues to grow and evolve, I look forward to seeing how this affects on us a local level here in New York state.

 

 

Will a New Interpretation of an Old Regulation Hurt Small Cheesemakers?

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

One of my favorite things to do on a Saturday morning here in New York City is to head to Union Square to explore the Greenmarket where farmers and vendors from across the state converge on this square year-round every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

Farmers, craftsman and cheesemakers depend on farmer’s markets as one of their main sources of income -- these markets are particularly essential for small-scale cheesemakers to turn a profit.

A perfect example is a cheesemaker that I have worked with on several occasions up in Vermont. He is able to sell his cheese to a distributor for anywhere from $10 - $12 per pound wholesale. That distributor then sells it to restaurants, cheese shops and other specialty grocers at a mark up and keeps the profit.

This same cheesemaker can sell his own cheese at a farmer’s market for close to $20 per pound -- and he keeps that profit all for himself. He's also able to connect directly with his customers, relationships are established and those customers return the following week. Farmer's market presence can be essential.

As I made my rounds to the various vendors and cheesemakers this past Saturday, all of the talk concerned a new interpretation of an existing regulation that could seriously jeopardize cheesemakers and their place in the Greenmarket.

One of the cheesemakers at the market received a phone call from Ag & Market, stating that cheesemakers would no longer be able to hand cut cheese or cut samples for customers onsite unless they had an Article 20c license.

An Article 20c license -- at a high level -- is granted to businesses to ensure that foods purchased for consumption in New York State are manufactured and processed under proper sanitary conditions.

No problem, right? Any cheesemaker who would like to bring his or her cheese to market and cut to order need only apply for license. The problem is that, according to the vendors I spoke with, a 20c license won’t be granted unless the business owner has certain measures in place to ensure compliance.

One of these stipulations is having a permanent structure with hot and cold running water, presumably to create a sanitary environment suitable for distributing food for human consumption. This means at the farmer's market, at the point of sale and customer contact in the market, not back on the farm.

Not so simple now is it?

Without permanent structures with running water at the markets, cheesemakers will have to pre-cut and wrap all of their cheese prior to arriving at the market. So, this is the scenario that could unfold:

“Would you like to try a sample of my cheese? Great! Let me take out this small and dried out piece that I have in Tupperware that I cut several hours ago before I made the trip.I can’t cut you a piece from this wheel here, because it might be unsanitary, but you can have this crusty piece that I am sure you will love… Would you like a smaller wedge than this size here? A larger one? Sorry…”

Can the Cheesemaker use an entire wheel as visual aide and talking point in bringing people in? Yes. Can they cut from it? No.

Now some people might argue that the hot and cold running water would allow the vendor to clean the knife after cutting cheese. Unless the knives are used to cut things other than cheeses, and the vendors don’t use sanitary wipes and paper towels (every cheesemaker that I have met does this), I think you would be hard pressed in finding a risk of contamination.

Due to the pathogens and bacteria that are known to propagate in raw milk products (think listeria and E.coli), creameries are inspected multiple times a month. Dairy inspectors come and examine everything from floor drains and foot baths, to milk containers and whey disposal. Sanitation is everything to making cheese, so what is the benefit of this regulation? Having a permanent structure with hot and cold running water in Union Square is completely untenable for the small producers that rotate at the market on a weekly basis.

What would this accomplish? Creameries are inspected more often and more thoroughly than any restaurant or café. Is there that much risk for contamination from a dairy farm that has passed multiple dairy inspections?

There has been a lot of talk about the FDA and regulations for cheese making and dairy farms. If you aren’t familiar with Sally Jackson and her creamery closing just this past December due to a large cheese recall, I encourage you to read a few articles online as it has a major impact on small-scale producers, raw-milk cheeses, and the artisanal community here in the United States. You can read about the recall from the FDA’s perspective here. As counterpoint, here is a copy of Sally Jackson’s letter in response. Polarizing to say the least.

Max McCalman in his book “Mastering Cheese” discusses the whole idea of raw milk cheeses and contamination. The FDA regulates that all raw milk cheeses must be aged a minimum of 60 days before they are allowed for human consumption. The idea is that after 60 days, listeria and other pathogens are eradicated. Max argues that if the milk is contaminated, and the listeria is already present in the milk, wouldn’t the bacteria actually have more opportunity to propagate after 60 days? It all starts with the milk. Bad milk is bad milk.

If a creamery has passed multiple inspections, and the cheesemaker brings a wheel of his or her cheese to a farmer’s market for me to try (direct from the farm that has passed multiple inspections), is that not enough to assuage our fears of contamination?

This process seems to be a new enforcement of a standing regulation. The cheesemaker I spoke to received a phone call the night before going to Union Square, so the long-term effects are yet to be seen. But people are already incredibly frustrated. This could potentially have a major impact on their ability to establish themselves in the market and sell their cheeses.

This new interpretation clearly favors the larger producers who do not rely upon a farmer’s market presence, but mass produce their products in large industrial plants. Regulations such as this make it more difficult for the small artisanal producer to gain a foothold in the market, bring their unique products to the consumer, and contribute to the thriving artisanal cheese community that is struggling to grow and thrive in New York State.

The Fabulous Beekman Boys: Beekman 1802 Blaak

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

At this point I think everyone has heard about the hit reality show “The Fabulous Beekman Boys” that airs on the Planet Green network. But, for those of you who are not familiar, it follows the lives of two men -- Josh and his partner Brent -- who decide to lead the lives of farmers, explore the merits of sustainability, and develop their various products and lifestyle brand of Beekman 1802. 

On a working farm in Sharon Springs, NY, Josh and Brent are raising a dozen chickens, a couple of pigs and approximately 80 goats. One of the byproducts of raising goats is an ample supply of goat’s milk which in turn, lends itself to making cheese.

After doing a bit of research and with some assistance from the local creamery at Cooperstown Cheese Company, the Boys started producing cheese from their goat’s milk. Not happy with the acidity and sharpness of an aged cheese made purely from goat’s milk, they decided to mix in some cow’s milk (60% goat/40% cow) to add a layer of complexity and round out the flavor profile.

The cheeses are aged for approximately four months and then “blackened” on the exterior with a hardwood ash. Although some traditional chevre and soft goat’s cheeses do incorporate vegetable ash (think Capriole’s “Sofia”), the rinds on aged varieties are usually left to their own devices, with perhaps some washed encouragement from the affineur. The result here Beekman "Blaak," a dark and textured 2 lb-wheel, with a hint of smoke on the nose from the exterior ash.

With all of the hype surrounding the show and the Beekman brand, this cheese was popular right from the outset. Even before people had a chance to try this cheese, they wanted it.

I have now had an opportunity to try this cheese on two separate occasions from two separate wheels with two different groups of people, and the cheese has left me, for lack of a better word, wanting.

Visually, this is a gorgeous wheel. The blackened ash completely coats the rind and enhances the textures that are present from the basket molds used in making this cheese. It is definitely a conversation piece to have this cheese on your board as the contrast between the pale paste and the dark rind is quite stunning.

But, after letting the cheese come to room temp, I didn’t get anything on the nose beyond the smoky hints from the wood ash that coats the outside. I actually thought it was a bit overpowering.

What disappointed me -- on both occasions I might add -- was the lack of flavor or complexity. When combining cow and goat's milk, I expect a cheese that marries the tangy bite from the goat’s milk with a mellow and rounded creaminess from the cow’s milk. Blaak didn’t provide that for me or for the others that were tasting this with me.

This cheese is incredibly mild which isn’t necessarily a bad thing if that is what you are looking for. Personally, I look for pronounced and unique flavors, a nice balance of salt, and overall complexity. This cheese may contain some of those elements, but they are muted to the point of being nearly absent.

In looking at my fellow tasters (two cheese shop owners for one tasting, and a certain founder of a respected New York wine site for the other), we had that same look of recognition on our faces after trying a couple of pieces. This cheese is made by people who are on TV! Every major shop in the Northeast wants this cheese! So…why don’t we like it?

I can’t really answer that question. Sometimes hype, fame or reputation may cloud objectivity in trying something for the first time. That is the main reason why I wanted to try this cheese again from a different wheel, in a different location, with a different group. Was it just me? No.

Now it sounds like I didn’t like this cheese on any level. I am not saying that at all. I just think there is vast room for improvement. I look forward to seeing how the Beekman brand and “Blaak” evolve over time.

Byebrook Farm's Raw Milk Gouda

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

I was not familiar with Byebrook Farms or its location, Bloomville, NY (in Delaware County) prior to this past weekend. However, after tasting one of their cheeses, I would like to learn more about it.

After doing a quick Google map search, I saw that it is to the southeast of Oneonta, right in the middle of the Catskills. There are quite a few farms up that way, and several of these dairy farms are figuring out ways earn more money for their milk. 

The price that dairy farmers are paid for a gallon of milk, as opposed to the cost it takes to produce a gallon, does not weigh out in the farmer's favor. So, more and more farms are turning to cheese making, as the milk is much more valuable if made into cheese as opposed to selling it to a cooperative.  

I bring this up because in theory, this is of benefit to the farmer. Farmers can better capitalize on the hard work that they put into the care of their farms and animals. It is also of benefit to cheese lovers as new cheeses are being made available in stores, shops and farmer's markets on a regular basis.

Byebrook Farms is a perfect example of this in that they have only recently started making cheese with the raw milk from their herd of Holsteins. I came across this cheese while upstate in Poughkeepsie for a wedding.

I hadn't heard of this cheese before so I picked it up and figured I would ask questions later.

After a bit of research, I learned that the owners, Paul and Gwen Deysenroth, began making cheese in May 2008. After meeting with various cheese producers and a cheesemaker in Vermont with a farm similar to theirs, they decided to try making a Gouda.

As you can see in the picture, this cheese has a very pale paste. It is a light yellow with a bit of a waxy sheen that caused a reflection from our kitchen window. It had a rubbery feel in my hand, but it was still soft and flexible. The nose was very mild giving hints of fresh milk, which is why the taste was rather surprising. 

Typically, Goudas are relatively mild with just a hint of sweetness due to the lower levels of acidity generated in the cheese making process. During cooking, some of the whey is removed from the pot and replaced with hot water.  This washing of the curd removes some of the milk sugar or lactose and lowers the level of acidity, thereby creating a mild character and flavor. Hence the term "washed-curd cheese".

This cheese was not what I expected from a young Gouda at all. The only words I can think of to describe it are bright and tangy. Although there was a mild undertone of milk and butter, there was a really interesting citrus overtone just behind the acidity, somewhat reminiscent of orange pith.  

The paste completely coated my tongue creating a long and intense finish. What a surprise! Definitely not what I would expect by the name, but really good all the same. My wife and I broke out a jar of fig preserves which balanced the acidity perfectly without hiding the character of the cheese.

This cheese was an unexpected surprise to say the least. I look forward to more such as this as I continue to search out farmer's markets and new cheese makers. Melted in a grilled cheese sandwich (with some of the fig preserves), paired with fruit and almonds on a cheese board, this cheese will definitely make an impression.

Catapano Dairy Farm Fresh Chevre

One of the things I look forward to the most during the in spring and summer months is the abundance of fresh chevre that is available. The bright and creamy texture coupled with basil, heirloom tomatoes, and a grind of fresh black pepper… it doesn’t get much better than that in my book.

Conversely, there is a part of me that is always a little sad as we move into late fall and winter, the goats move into the barn, and that fantastic cheese is taken away for another year. 

Goats generally mate during the September and October months, and give birth to kids through April. Although the first few months of milk go to the kids, mothers can usually continue producing milk for the next six months, resulting in a somewhat finite period of time during which chevre and other goat’s milk cheese to be made. 

Fresh chevre is essentially the ultimate expression for seasonality in the cheese world. One of the finest examples of this is right on Long Island at Catapano Dairy Farm.

Located on the North Fork of Long Island, Catapano Dairy Farm has been making headlines since 2005 ever since their cheese won 1st place for chevre from the American Cheese Society, considered the most prestigious cheese competition in the country.

I was first introduced to the cheese a few years ago when my wife and I first started coming down to visit Lenn and Nena on Long Island. It was a revelation then, and continues to be the benchmark that I strive for every time I make fresh chevre at home.  T

he cheese has an incredibly moist and creamy texture with a slight scent of grass and flowers that you immediately associate with freshness and quality. What I like about this chevre is that it isn’t overwhelmingly "goaty."  What I mean by that is some goat’s milk cheeses can be so acidic and tangy on the backend that it can overwhelm some people to where they will swear off any cheese made with goat’s milk. The Catapano is incredibly mild and smooth with just a hint of the brightness on the end, and has converted several goat cheese haters into Catapano lovers. 

Put it on a cracker, put it in a salad, put it on a spoon…it’s that good…

As I sit and write this on a cool day near the end of summer, I am reminded once again that the spring and summer months are fleeting. Fresh chevre is only going to be made available for a little longer. Take advantage of it while you can. Catapano is a good place to start.

Two Cheeses From Sprout Creek Farms

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

As I mentioned in my last post about a positive addition to the Rhinebeck beer and cheese scene, I used the opportunity to try a couple of New York cheeses that I was unfamiliar with.

Having lived in the Hudson Valley for quite a while, I can attest that most people are familiar with Sprout Creek Farms. Located right within the heart of Poughkeepsie, this working farm provides education for children and adults with a specific focus on connecting the people with the land, animals and seasonality. 

One of the primary methods by which this message is conveyed is through making cheese. I have had a couple of Sprout Creek cheeses in the past, but the selection in the case at Grand Cru had a wedge of both Batch 35 and Toussaint. I had heard of these cheeses, but I had never taken an opportunity to taste them for myself.

Batch 35 is a washed-rind cheese made with raw cow's milk. The label on the wrapper (direct from the farm) indicated that this cheese is both pungent and meaty. After unwrapping and letting it come up to room temp (about an hour), the rind was bright orange and quite sticky. The nose on the cheese was...well…almost non-existent. There was a little bit of butter with a hint of sourness on the end, but not the meaty pungency that I expected given the the description. The texture was very flexible -- almost to the point of being rubbery. The taste was very mild with the same hint of butter from the nose and mild creaminess that I could almost associate with a Fontina.

Because of the stark differences between the descriptors used by the cheese makers and the way it was tasting for me on this day, I have a feeling that this was a wedge cut from an older batch. I would really like to taste this again as I suspect that either age or poor storage had an adverse effect.

The Toussaint by way of contrast was a welcome change. This Alpine-style cheese has a dry and dusty rind that gave the cheese a very rustic, handmade look and feel. The familiar Alpine aroma of sweet nuttiness was mixed with the mustiness of dried hay that drew me right in.

The texture was very flaky and dry, which enabled me to shave off a thin piece and let it melt in my mouth. The nice amount of salt in the paste melded well with the subtle flavors of butter and caramel, providing a well-rounded flavor. The dry texture really begs for it to be paired with some sort of beverage. I have to admit that I have never had an Alpine cheese that was quite this dry before. This isn't a negative by any means, but simply unique.

I like a nice saison and saison-style ales with Alpine style cheeses as I like the slight barnyard funk of the beer paired with the sweet notes from the cheese. This cheese would provide no exception.

The next time I visit the Hudson Valley, I would like to visit Sprout Creek Farms, meet the cheese makers, and get more of a sense of their cheese making philosophy. After tasting these two cheeses, I am anxious to revisit their portfolio and explore the rest of their line.

Grand Cru Beer & Cheese Market: Great Beers. Good Start for Cheese.

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

Having lived in the Hudson Valley, I can attest that it is somewhat difficult to find shops that offer a quality cheese selection. The places that do have carry cheese beyond your normal supermarket variety do not necessarily specialize in promoting local, artisanal cheese. But, a friend sent me an email that mentioned about a New York-focused beer and cheese shop that had just opened up in Rhinebeck, NY.

Rhinebeck, for those of you not familiar, is a beautiful historic area on the banks of the Hudson River in Northern Dutchess County that serves as home to several historic landmarks, restaurants and B&Bs.

With all of this to offer, there was one thing definitely lacking… a place to buy New York-sourced cheese and beer. I've spent a lot time in Rhinebeck, and understand the local feel to the area. So, I was excited to head to the Grand Cru Beer & Cheese Market and check out the offerings.

Upon entering, I could see that this place takes great pride in their beer selection. There were many great and hard-to-find breweries offered that are sometimes difficult to find even in New York City. In addition to the shelves of beer in which to “build your own six-pack,” and refrigerated cases to take and drink right away, they offer growlers and three daily selections from which to choose.  It was pretty impressive to walk into this new shop and decide on having a pint from Victory Prima Pils from PA, Ommegang Zuur from NY, and Avery Maharaja IPA from CO. All in all, this is quite a nice beer selection in an area that desperately needed a specialty shop.

That being said, I wish that their cheese selection was as extensive and varied as their beer selection.

In looking at the cheese selection, I saw a variety of cheeses that were pre-wrapped in a cold case next to the register in the back.  The cheese selection is New York-centric (which is great) with a few European favorites thrown in, but it seemed to favor one particular New York cheese farm above the others. 

Of the 10 local cheeses that were in the case (by my count at the time) 8 of them were from Sprout Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie, NY. 

There is nothing necessarily wrong with that, but I would think that a shop with a New York focus would extend beyond the immediate area. 

There were some other cheeses in the case as well -- Coach Farm Chevre and Old Chatham Ewe’s Blue -- but the case looked pretty empty with some pieces wrapped haphazardly in plastic wrap. When I asked about a couple of the Sprout Creek cheeses with which I was not familiar, they didn’t have anything open for me to sample, as everything is pre-weighed, priced and wrapped. 

After buying a couple of pieces (more on the cheeses themselves in an upcoming post), I took a seat in the front of the shop where they have a few tables and chairs. My cheeses were brought to me on a board with a few crackers and shot glass of delicious local honey for me to pair with and enjoy. But like I said, more on that in a future post.

I think it is important for any cheese shop to excite their customers about the cheeses they carry. Bring them into the stories behind the cheese, where it was produced and what the cheese maker is striving for. A great way to do that is by talking over a taste, and talking about it together.

Getting a feel for your inventory can be a difficult thing to do, especially in a brand new shop for a new area. 

Making sure that there is enough cheese to sample as well as sell is a fine line, especially without any prior knowledge or benchmark data. Having been open for only about a month as of July 12, I think the owners have made a great start in bringing artisanal cheese (and beer) to this community.  I am hopeful that as the shop owners get more of a feel for their customer base, and familiarity with the great cheeses that are being produced in New York, they will take the next step in branching out to other regions, offering tastes of what they have selected, cutting to order, and bringing their cheese counter up to the level that their beer selection has already achieved. I think this shop has a lot of potential. 

Give it some time and refinement, and this shop could become a destination spot for cheese and beer lovers making a trip through the Hudson Valley.

New York Cheese: Ewe's Blue

By Aaron Estes, Cheese Editor

As a part-time cheesemonger, I am routinely asked for my recommendations for cheeses. Composing a cheese plate for a party, pairing with a specific wine and making an addition or substitution for a recipe are all issues that I handle in a typical day when standing behind the counter. 

And, as we move into the summer months, more and more people are grilling outside and looking for that perfect blue cheese to top their steak, melt over their burger or even toss with a salad of field greens. 

Invariably, my first suggestion is “Ewe’s Blue” from Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in upstate New York. 

  Tom and Nancy Clark own the largest flock of dairy sheep in the country on their farm in Old Chatham, located in the heart of the Hudson Valley.

Using the pasteurized sheep’s milk from approximately 1,200 East Friesian crossbreeds, “Ewe’s Blue” is a soft and moist blue cheese made in the Roquefort style -- a style typified by a sharp flavor with a hint of acidity and salt on the front end, and a rich and creamy paste on the interior, with a long and lingering finish that can sometimes bring about a hint of smoke.

The veining is blue with pockets of green that give this cheese such a sharp tang and what is generally associated with a “blue” flavor. 

What I find most remarkable about this cheese is the unctuous texture. Of the three milk types generally used in cheesemaking, sheep’s milk is the most distinctive in that it has higher milk fat content than either cow and goat milk. The result is a higher concentration of fat within the curd that gives these cheeses a rich mouthfeel and complexity. 

With the high fat content and salty bite on the front end of this cheese, an assertive wine or beer is needed in order to complement. Classic blue cheese pairings include beverages with a sweet component to balance the saltiness, such as a barley wine, port or even a late harvest riesling.

Although this cheese is based on the Roquefort style, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company has created a truly American artisanal cheese that propels us forward in establishing our cheese cultural identity.