New York Cork Report

Empire State Cellars, a New York Wine Superstore, to Open in Riverhead

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

The Long Island Wine Council estimates that 1.2 million people visited Long Island wine country last year. The Finger Lakes Wine Country promotion group estimates that 750,000 visited wineries in that region. And according to the New York Wine and Grape Foundation website, there were nearly 5 million total visitors to New York wine country in 2008.

That's a lot of people tasting -- and hopefully buying -- a lot of New York wine.

Empire State Cellars has the potential to dwarf that exposure when it opens later this summer at the Tanger Outlet Center in Riverhead.

"Incredibly, the Tanger Riverhead Outlet mall sees five million cars (per year). That’s about fourteen million shoppers a year -- from Long Island, Manhattan and beyond -- with a startlingly high demographic and propensity to make purchases," said Jim Silver, general manager of Peconic Bay Winery, which will open the store as the second of it s five permissible tasting rooms under its Farm Winery license.

Satellite tasting rooms are nothing new, of course. They are increasingly common in the Finger Lakes and Pindar Vineyards on the North Fork has a second tasting room in the village of Port Jefferson to take advantage of the tourist traffic there.

This is much more than just a satellite tasting room, however.

New York Wine, Cider and Spirits Superstore

Under New York SLA rules, Peconic Bay Winery can sell not only its own wines at Empire State Cellars, but cider, spirits and other wines from any winery as well -- as long as it is New York AVA products produced in New York State. Empire State Wines will sell all of the above. "We would also like to include New York cheeses and food crafts as well, but we might not have that at first," Silver added.

"We intend to represent the very best the state has to offer, as well as great values -- since this is an outlet store -- at competitive prices," he said. The store will stock wines from every corner of New York wine country -- Lake Erie, Thousand Islands, Adirondacks, Hudson Valley, Niagara, Finger Lakes and Long Island.

"We will try to represent any New York producer that wants to be in the store," Silver said of the planned selection. The store will also stock multi-vintage verticals of select wines as well as older wines, when available.

Any winery represented in the shop will also have the opportunity to pour at scheduled daily in-store tastings. "If a Finger Lakes winemaker is visiting the area, we may schedule them for the day, and maybe the next day have someone from the Hudson Valley pouring his baco noirs and the next day maybe a Long Island winery will pour new releases," Silver said.  

It's About Timing

The concept for Empire State Cellars isn't a new one, of course. There are and have been wine shops that focus on New York wines or feature large New York selections -- most famously the now-closed Vintage NY stores in Manhattan and New Paltz.

When I asked Silver where he thinks his concept will succeed where others haven't he said it's largely about timing. "There’s a growing interest in New York wines that is unprecedented so I think the time is right for this type of store. There’s no Jack Daniels, no Smirnoff, and no Cavit Pinot Grigio in this store. We have to exist on people’s growing interest in the local wine and the local economy too. It’s not going to be easy I’m sure, but with the support of the industry behind us we should all do well."

The new shop will be run and managed independently of the winery by Polly Brown (picture right with Silver and assistant manager Evan Ducz), the shops operations director. "She has a great depth and diversity of experience in the wine, spirits and food industries -- most of it in Napa. Polly is charged with handling the selection and the marketing of all of the wines, and is strictly independent," Silver said.

Local Reviews Too

The "local" angle of the shop isn't just about the products it will sell -- it extends to how they sell them as well. According to Silver, Empire State Cellars will feature “home-grown” shelf-talking reviews and descriptions of wines and spirits as well. "The reviews and write ups from the New York Cork Report, the New York Times and Wine Spectator magazine -- which is a New York company -- will be the predominant reviews on the shelf."

What This Could Mean for New York Wine and its Fans

It's only one shop, however, but I think the impact could be large. Empire State Cellars has the opportunity to do something that I don't think has been done before -- bring the quality message, the quantity message, the value message and the diversity message all together in one well-curated store -- and present it to millions of people. 

That New York produces wine, cider and spirits isn't news these days. But when people have the opportunity to experience all the best, all in one room -- and that is the goal here it seems -- it can completely change the way the state's artisan beverages are perceived. Plus, this isn't just a marketing vehicle or a one-time even or yearly festival. It’s like a farmer’s market devoted just to wine -- that is open every day. I think it can, and will, sell a lot of wine.

And if you are on Long Island and interested in local wines -- there may be no better place to explore and learn. Brown hopes to work with all of the state's top producers -- even those without distributors. That means that Empire State will likely be the only place on Long Island to get many of these products. As a "local" geek, I'm really looking forward to that.

Silver and Brown hope to open the shop on August 1 (but with all the licensing involved, there isn't a firm date yet). For those familiar with the Riverhead Tanger Outlets, the store will be located next to the food court and will essentially share a parking lot with the Ralph Lauren outlet store.

Calling all New York Wineries

Silver wants to hear from any and all wineries, cider makers and distillers interested in selling their products in the store:

"We’re interested in knowing what the wineries would like us to carry – to get the conversation started. Once we’ve heard from you we’ll get back to you with our thoughts, terms and policies and let you know when we will start taking samples. We also need to figure out a mechanism to consolidate product in the various regions so we can pick up wine and bring it down here. Of course the Long Island wineries will be able to bring us their stuff regularly, but we’d like to have pick up points in the Finger Lakes and other regions so our truck can bring them down to the store. Since these sales will be bond-to-bond we cannot take deliveries from distributors. All sales will be direct. I can tell you I’m personally looking forward to getting my hands on some Roanoke, Anthony Road, Weimer, Paumanok, Shinn, Lucas, Channing, Ravines, Sheldrake, Hearts and Hands, McKenzie Rye, wow, the list really goes on and on!"

Contact Jim at: jim@peconicbaywinery.com

What Wines Would YOU Recommend

We know that our NYCR readership is extremely passionate and knowledgeable about New York wines, so let's let Silver, Brown and the Empire State Wines team know the producers that we'd recommend. I'm already planning a long email of my own recommendations.

Breuckelen Gin: The Soul is in the Grain

By David Flaherty, New York City Correspondent

In the heart of Brooklyn, Brad Estabrooke is making gin that channels the spirit and soul of New York.

When I approached the storefront in Brooklyn, well after dark, I began to wonder if I should pull out my walkie-talkie and call for backup — oh wait, I haven't owned a walkie-talkie since I was 10…shit.

As I was contemplating the childhood devices that could provide comfort on this barren journey, I noticed light spilling out on to the sidewalk ahead. As I neared the wall of windows, I glanced inside and that's, that's when I saw the still. My eyes met her gleaming copper sides, her long tower, and her shiny knobs. I was breathless. In a state of awe, I wondered if this was some strange spaceship that could fly into deep space, or perhaps a vessel to burrow into the floor and take one to the center of the Earth. I had arrived.

To say Breuckelen Distilling Company's name properly, you need to lower your voice a bit, add a syllable between the "Brook" and the "lyn" and affect a slight Dutch twang…at least that's what I learned in the first moments upon entering. A few hours later, I left stunned at the level of commitment that this small team is bringing to craft distilling.

First and foremost, they are focused on their ingredients and their ability to capture them in their purest form.

Estabrooke, owner of Breuckelen Distilling, is an interesting cat. At the shockingly young age of 32, he stands on the brink of an industry run by (mostly) men twice his age, many of whom come from families with long histories of distilling. Brad, however — a former financial trader on Wall Street — is entirely self-taught. After eight years of selling bonds, Brad (though successful in his own small division) was laid-off along with his entire department. He found himself at a crossroads. Return to Wall Street or turn a new life chapter? He did what any of us would do, really. He went ice-climbing, of course. And after a month hiatus, returned to New York with a desire to work for himself. He decided to open a small-production, craft distillery.

With no previous experience making spirits, Brad set off to learn everything he could from books, tastings and consultations with other distillers. Though very soft-spoken and one who calmly moved about his high-ceilinged storefront, it was clear that Brad doesn't approach things lightly or half-heartedly. He dives in headfirst with nary a glance for a life preserver. He thrives in the deep end.

The distillery is larger than I expected. At the center of the room, like a Queen looking over her subjects, stands the still. Off to one side, a collection of shiny metal jugs fills the floor near a chemist's table cluttered with beakers and gadgets. Across the way on the far wall, pallets of grain are stacked in piles awaiting their conversion to mash. Large, blue drums stand at the ready, many with bubbling mashes in various stages of fermentation.

Everything, and I mean everything, is covered in a fine powder. "It's from the grain," Brad says, "which we mill ourselves at the start of the process. The flour gets all over the place."

His office (merely a wooden table, computer and chair) was cloaked in a white sheet reminiscent of a Civil War General's tent on the battlefield.

One of his first realizations upon getting started was that many spirits-makers begin their gin by purchasing bulk amounts of neutral grain spirit. They use this as the base for which their botanical blends — many will use between 5-30 different botanicals, with juniper being the predominant one — are built upon. This can be bought from mega-distilleries creating thousands of gallons of the stuff.

This fact didn't sit well with Brad. Why would one not make their entire product from scratch, using grain they'd hand-selected and techniques that were their own? The base spirit is more than just a base; it is the heart and soul of the gin. He quickly steered right while others went left, and soon found himself visiting farmers in upstate New York and bringing bags of wheat back to Brooklyn where the experimenting began.

Using a massive pot that was once used to make batches of tomato sauce large enough to feed an Italian brigade, Brad began methodically teaching himself how to mash, ferment and eventually distill his own grain spirit. In doing so, he is capturing the unique terroir of New York's grain. He estimates that this painstaking process consumes four-fifths of his team's time and energy. But it's worth it, as the flavor, the mouthfeel and the aromas are wholly unique. This is liquid New York, with a richness and viscosity unlike any gin I've tasted.

He's fueled by the city, too. “Working in Brooklyn is inspiring. There’s energy here from the community that’s centered on craft production, be it small restaurants and chefs, or shops focusing on artisan products. You feel it all around you," he said.

Using five different botanicals (juniper, lemon peel, rosemary, grapefruit and ginger), Brad stumbled upon another technique that is unusual in the field of gin making. While most distillers add their botanicals to the neutral grain spirit in the base of the still where they are steeped and distilled together — or another technique known as the Carter-Head where the botanicals are held in a basket at the top of the still where the alcoholic vapors pass through the blend — Brad does something entirely different. He distills each botanical separately. That’s right: separately. I was shocked too. He has perfected the distillation of lemon peel, of grapefruit, of juniper berries, ginger and rosemary.

Once all five botanicals are distilled, he blends them together to make his final product. It's a strange way to do things. Almost more like a mad chemist or a crazed mixologist would approach it. But the proof is in the pudding. It is like no other gin I've tried. Full flavored with a wonderful complexity where each botanical shines through. But the real focus of the gin? The New York grain. The mouthfeel of the gin is what makes you take notice. A rich viscosity holds the flavors together and confirms all this extra attention to detail is worth it.

I asked Brad how he came up with the blend of botanicals he now uses. “My girlfriend and I were at a restaurant a few years ago and we had this incredible risotto. It was simply flavored with lemon and rosemary. And I thought, this is it, this is the flavor I want at the heart of my gin”.

Hundreds of distillations later, he has done just that. The rosemary note gives the gin a savory quality; with the lemon and grapefruit rounding out the fruit characteristics; and the ginger giving a a spicy dismount on the finish.

Inspiration can come in strange places. But for Brad Estabrooke, it is the state of New York and the city of Brooklyn that he honors above all else.

(The first two photos in this story are courtesy of Breuckelen Distilling Company)

The Coot Mathews: A Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey Cocktail

By David Flaherty, New York City Correspondent

I'm a big fan of Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey, made by Finger Lakes Distilling. It's a pure, corn-filled ticket to the rolling hills of the Finger Lakes.  

The nose, the palate, the finish — it's a corn-lover's dream. I purchased it for the restaurant a few months back. Surely, I wasn't expecting a rush on the bar, a throng of kernel-lovers beating down our door to get at it, but I was disappointed to see the demand (and the awareness) as small as it's been.

So, as with any relatively-unknown, beautifully-produced — but sadly neglected — artisan spirit, the surest way to the top is on the coveted cocktail page.

Any salesman or saleswoman in the spirits business knows this, and will claw their way over the bar, agree to wash dishes in the back, offer to walk your dog so you can enjoy a seven-day cruise in the Caribbean, anything to get their product in a cocktail. It's the gateway for any spirit to hit the tipping point of public brand awareness.

I've known this, and my crew of crack mixologists and I have benn hammering away at how to incorporate the Glen Thunder into a drink that will sing and be welcomed back at the table for seconds.

Last night, I think I cracked the code.

A cocktail's creation can stem from a million inspirations: the classics, well-known flavor combinations or even a remembrance of what Aunt Mable used to pour in a thimble for you when you were five years old and stuck home with the flu.

For this latest attempt, I was inspired by the idea of jalapeno cornbread. Could I capture that in a drink?

With any good attempt at mixology, you want the featured spirit to shine. All other components are there to prop it up, selflessly step back while it takes the curtain call.

So, first off, what are the flavors in jalapeno cornbread? Well, corn, of course, and heat. Hmm.... what's behind the bar? Ah, Tabasco, perfect.

What citrus goes well with spicy food? Well, I ain't gonna be squeezing grapefruit on my Chile Rellenos, so lime juice it is. Butter is taken care of with the rich, oily mouthfeel of the Glen Thunder.

And what do you put on cornbread besides butter? Jam. Hmm...ah, apricot brandy? It just might work.

After a couple of attempts, this turned out to be a solid start. We're gonna keep blowing out the possibilities (jalapeno-infused simple syrup, perhaps), but the following recipe turned out pretty tasty

And the name — I mean, come on, every cocktail needs a good name — Coot Mathews. An old friend of John Wayne's, he was an oil well firefighter in Texas. Putting out fires with grit, grace and boldness. An awesome combination and a fitting name.

The Coot Matthews

2 oz Glen Thunder

1 oz Apricot Brandy

1 oz Lime Juice

2 drops Tabasco

Dash of Peach Bitters

 

What We Drank (November 9, 2010)

Here's what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Evan Dawson: Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Meritage

I have now opened this wine on three separate occasions, and it has been three distinctly different wines. What a beguiling lesson for those of us who seek to power taste and ascribe a permanent score or note.

In March 2009, shortly after bottling, this wine was precocious and juicy, dark and rich. Coming from the fabulous-for-reds 2007 Finger Lakes vintage, and in the hands of perhaps the most skilled red wine maker in the region, hopes were high. I found it explosive, if slightly shrouded by oak tones.

Last week it opened up entirely differently. Almost harsh in acidity, the oak coating had been replaced by a frame of grilled and fresh herbs. It was thinner, having dropped some baby fat, but not thin.

That same bottle, one night later, had become something much more complex. It retained those herbal elements while reuniting with the juicier black fruits. There was also something hard to pin down, an interplay between ripe fruit and acidity that defied my description.

I enjoy writing tasting notes, and I think they can be tremendously valuable. But they are also malleable, given wine's ever-evolving state. This bottle reminds us.

 

Lenn Thompson: Great South Bay Brewery Massive India Pale Ale

There is more than a bit of a beer revolution underway on this narrow sand bar jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. New micro- and nano-breweries (a fairly new term for me) have popped up all over the Island. Few of them bottle their beers, instead relying on beer shop growler stations and bars to get the word -- and their products -- out into the marketplace.

That's how a growler of this IPA founds its way into my possession -- and my pint glass -- over the weekend. Until then, I'd only heard about Great South Bay Brewery via the local beer geek channels.

Even at 6.8% abv, I'd term this a session IPA because, while showing stylistic hop character and bitterness, it's not over the top bitter or piney (only 50 IBUs). It's well balanced and didn't bludgeon my palate into submission after a couple pints.

I enjoy having my palate ravaged by hops as much as the next hop addict, but not at the beginning of a long day of sipping.

On Saturday, it paired beautifully with lots of college football, but I'd imagine it'd work really well with sharp-but-not-too-crumbly cheddar cheese.

 

Tom Mansell: Finger Lakes Distilling Glen Thunder

As the weather gets colder, whiskey is making more regular appearances in my glass. This time, I chose a local offering with some real personality.

Finger Lakes Distilling's Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey is not messing around.

Neat, it's like a corn muffin with a burning 90-proof edge that warms from the inside out. On the rocks, it's clean and smooth but maintains an almost smoky, crusty cornbread finish.

In both cases, it's got a substantial buttery mid-palate that makes it worth sipping and savoring.

But hey, let's be honest. It's also perfectly okay to hit this from a hip flask while you're raking those last leaves. 

Bryan Calandrelli: Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso Toscana 2002

Earning the title of "Cab Franc Guy" in the greater western New York area hasn't come without seemingly hundreds of conversations about my favorite grape. In these friendly discussions there's usually someone who mentions that they don't generally like cab franc yet there's been one that has made them reconsider once or twice.

The cab franc mentioned by people who don't like cab franc is usually this bottle of Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso Toscana. This Super Tuscan cab franc shows the grape in a ripe and rustic, undeniably Italian manor.

Aromas of black fruit, dark chocolate, leather and tar compliment its nearly opaque red hue. There's nothing thin, vegetal or acidic in this wine and its weight, tannins and alcohol are well incorporated. In a blind setting I definitely wouldn't pick it as being cab franc.

That being said it was still delicious.

I dug this wine immensely but for the usually asking price of $80 or more, it's not going to reach my table again anytime soon.

 

Julia Burke: Mastroberardino 2003 Aglianico Irpinia

Most wine lovers would enter a wine bar with 80 wines by the glass and be in heaven.

When my fellow wine geeks and I visit our favorite wine bar, however, our first question to the garrulous owner is invariably, "Hey Jeff, got anything open that's not on the list?"

That's how I ended up with a glass of this 2003 Aglianico, not on the menu but right up my alley for a post-concert drink with new friends.

The maturity only gave it grace; rustic notes of dried herbs, dusty florals, and black truffle softened a still-fierce grace note of sour cherry, begging for a wood-fire soppressata pizza.

I like my Italians a little more mature (what can I say) and this one hit the spot.

 

David Flaherty: Boulder, Sweaty Betty Blonde, Colorado

It was time to clean out the beer fridge here at work. The Autumn season is upon us and I was itching to make room for the brown ales, the porters and the rich Belgian beers I'd ordered for November. It was time to say goodbye to the beers of summer, so I did some clearing and purchased the scraps for my home fridge (a nice little perk of restaurant life).

Boulder Beer Company was the first microbrewery in Colorado. As the movement began in earnest in California at Anchor Steam and Sierra Nevada, Boulder Beer soon followed. In what is now a saturated, beautiful bastion of breweries like New Belgium and Odells, they are the grandfather of the Colorado scene. And grandfather needs his respect.

The Sweaty Betty Blonde is the perfect summer beer (not to mention the perfect beer for the near blistering conditions of my Queens apartment; damn those pre-war radiators can do some heating). So, in the near Havana-like conditions, I sat on my couch last night and cracked one open. A Pale Wheat Ale in style, it had a hint of orange peel and lemon on the nose, with a beautiful crisp body. It took me back to July and for a moment, I could feel the summer sun on my face. Then I opened my eyes and I was in Cuba again.

I love watching the seasons change through the beers in my glass. It's about time for a big, hearty Belgian Tripel, people. I hope you're ready.

New York Well-Represented at NYC Debut of the Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival

By Andy Freedman, New York City Correspondent

Some of my favorite things in life begin with the letter 'B': there's basketball, and brunch, and, of course, bars. 

Last weekend my wife and I encountered 3 other Bs close to my heart when we attended the "Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival" at LA.VENUE in Manhattan with some 5,000 other beer and bourbon-drinking, bacon-crazed porkophiles. Having successfully traveled up and down the East Coast the past three years, BB&B finally made its Manhattan debut. What's there not to love about a walk-around event that features unlimited tastes of 60+ beers, 40+ bourbons and all the southern 'cue you can handle, not to mention tastings of 10-plus artisanal bacons? 

Local breweries, and even a local whiskey distillery, more than held their own amidst all the Southern flair at the festival, which included a mechanical bull, sweet tea vodka, collard greens and baked beans. And, as you can see from the pictures, there was quite a bit of local pride on display. 

Sixpoint Craft Ales was pouring its Sweet Action and Righteous Rye. Kelso of Brooklyn poured its immensely popular pilsner. Saranac had its Pale Ale and Imperial IPA and Southampton Brewing was serving its IPA and Imperial Porter. Also on-hand representing New York were Brewery Ommegang with its Witte and Abbey ales, Long Island's own Blue Point Brewing Co., NYC's Heartland Brewing, Lake Placid Pub & Brewery, Brooklyn Brewery and Tuthilltown Spirits.

Perhaps the most interesting of the local beers was the Heartland Brewing Sumatra Porter with Chicory, a collaboration between Heartland founder Jon Bloostein and his brother, Oren, of Oren's Daily Roast Coffee in Manhattan. It had a light, mocha aroma and tasted of very strong, very good coffee. 

 

Of the out-of-state breweries, our favorite beers were Heavy Seas Loose Cannon IPA from Maryland's Clipper City Brewing Co., Bear Republic's Hop Rod Rye and Lagunitas IPA. I would say the surprise standout beer for me though was Goose Island's Bourbon County Stout, a potent 13% ABV bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout.  If you can get your hands on this, I strongly recommend giving it a try. It sported huge aromas of bourbon and vanilla and tasted of chocolate, vanilla and sweet malts.

Let's not forget about the 'cue. Luckily, we arrived at the event as the doors opened at noon. The first session ended at 4 p.m. and by 1:15 p.m. the lines for local favorites like Hill Country, Dinosaur BBQ and Southern Hospitality were close to 20 minutes long. By 1:45 p.m., many of the BBQ vendors were already out of food. 

Hats off to Dinosaur BBQ, the only vendor who had enough supply to meet the massive demand. They even sent a truck to pick up more 'cue from their Manhattan location. My favorites were the bbq pork sliders from a lesser known purveyor who was tucked away towards the back of the event space and bacon sausages from Brooklyn's The Meat Hook. 

Thankfully, there was also plenty of tasty collard greens, baked beans and cornbread. 

Given that it was BB&B's first go-around in Manhattan, the festival was not without its glitches. It appears they oversold tickets to the 12-4 p.m. session. The lines for the big-name BBQ purveyors were too long and they ran out of food too quickly. We heard some grunts from people who arrived closer to 1 and didn't get to try some of the food. 

My advice to those attending future BB&B festivals would be to arrive early and skip the huge lines for the big-name vendors in favor of the lesser known purveyors with shorter lines, and in many instances, better 'cue. 

It was great that so many representatives from the breweries came out for the event. I use these festivals as an opportunity to learn more about the breweries and the people behind them, and there's nothing worse than someone pouring tastes that has no clue what they're even pouring. Many of the out-of-state breweries were manned by either volunteers or distribution reps. 

 

We caught up with Jeff Gorlechen of Sixpoint Craft Ales, who's celebrating their fifth anniversary this month.  They've been busy brewing Double Sweet Action, their special Fifth Anniversary Ale. Sixpoint has also recently released its Redd, an American amber ale. When asked what else Sixpoint has in the works, Jeff said they're making their first foray into bottling. So, the day when you can bring home a six-pack of Sixpoint from the store may not be too far off. For now, you'll have to continue to fill a growler or head to a bar to get your Sixpoint fix. 

 

While he was busy pouring away his Hudson bourbon whiskeys for the masses, we were able to sneak in a few words with Gable Erenzo, the Distiller and Brand Ambassador for Tuthilltown Spirits.  New York may be well known for its wineries and breweries, but Gable tells us that it's also becoming a hotbed for the emerging craft distilling industry.  In speaking with him, we learned that Tuthilltown use only organic product and locally-produced ingredients, such as New York grown corn and apples, in their eco-friendly distillation process. 

 

Some other highlights from the festival included:

 

• Maker's Mark had a table where guests could dip their tasting glass into the signature Maker's Mark wax for a one of a kind souvenir. As a bonus, shots of Maker's Mark were being poured as guests waited in line. We got to meet and chat with Master Distiller Kevin Smith, who told us about a new Maker's Mark bourbon that's in development and should be released soon. He said it's basically going to be similar to the Maker's Mark we've grown to love, but enhanced with toasted oak staves to give it more intense flavors.
• Loveless Café’s Famous Piggy Popcorn.  This caramel-candied bacon popcorn goodness is popped in pure bacon grease, coated with a secret, homemade caramel sauce and studded with lean bits of Loveless' own hickory-smoked country cured bacon. 

Long Island's First Brandy: Peconic Bay Spirits Sono Rinata

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

I haven't tasted it yet -- no one not involved in the production has yet -- but Long Island's first brandy is here: Peconic Bay Spirits' Sono Rinata.

Technically, it's called "Immature Grape Brandy" because it was made with 100% finished merlot wine from Peconic Bay Winery, and wasn't aged for at least two years. That means they can't call it grappa.

Produced by Richard Stabile at Long Island Spirits from Peconic Bay Winery 2003 Merlot with Bernard Cannac (now winemaker at Heron Hill Winery) consulting, it should be available in the Peconic Bay Winery tasting room and at sometime within the next week. It will retail for $29 per 375ml bottle.

According to Peconic Bay's general manager Jim Silver, they decided to leave the brandy in a clear state like an eau-de-vie so that "the delicate fruit character was preserved, and not covered with oak character, or sweet, brown caramel coloring."

Silver says that the brandy "smells like cherry pie, with distinct red fruit in the nose and a gentle stinging alcohol bite.

"It is of course bone dry, and 42.5% alcohol. "At 40% it seemed weak, and at 45% a little too harsh.  Right in the middle was perfect," Silver told me in an email.

They named the brandy Sono Rinata, which means “we are reborn,” because the finished product really is that 2003 merlot reborn as something new entirely. 

"We plan on producing a full line of spirits products from various grape varieties in the future, including fruit brandies, under our Peconic Bay label," said Silver.

When I asked Silver about the regulatory issues surrounding Sono Rinata's production, he explained it pretty simply "We sold the wine to (Long Island Spirits), and they sold us the brandy back, a legal transaction. NYS ABC regulations article 6, subchapter 76-a, subsection 4(b)(6) passed in March of this year gave farm wineries the license to sell distilled products, so long as they are New York produced of New York ingredients. We can even taste the product in the Tasting Room, .25 oz maximum."

Without generalizing too much, there were an awful lot of 2003 reds that would have been better of being made into brandy.

I know of at least one other winery considering getting into the distilling and spirits game. It's an exciting trend that is worth paying very close attention to. It's also great to see Long Island wineries working together with Long Island Spirits to create more local products.

I should be able to taste this by next week, so look for a review sometime soon.