The Best Long Island Wines of 2006
As 2006 comes to an unseasonably warm close here on Long Island, I thought it a good time to list and highlight some of my favorite Long Island wines of 2006.
I’m a lucky guy. I’m tasting and writing about Long Island wines as much as — and probably more than — anyone else. I consider myself even luckier because I’m doing so as the region really starts to reach maturity. Remember, this industry only started in 1973. Its still a baby by wine region standards
Over the past few years, local winemakers have really started hitting their stride, crafting some of the best wines ever made on the East Coast. The best wines are still ahead, but these are the best ones I tasted in 2006.
Best Merlot: Grapes of Roth 2001 Merlot ($50)
Winemaker Roman Roth (of Wolffer Estate and Roanoke Vineyards) plays negociant with his own Grapes of Roth label. He made only 200 cases of this rich, aromatic wine of uncommon elegance using fruit from Martha Clara Vineyards. Fruit-forward but impeccably balanced, it offers cherries, spearmint, sweet basil smoked meat and tar flavors in a full-bodied frame.
Runners Up: Lenz Winery 2001 "Old Vines" Merlot ($55), Raphael 2001 First Label Merlot ($30)
Best Cabernet Sauvignon: Roanoke Vineyards 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40)
Cabernet Sauvignon rules California, with big, tannic wines of gargantuan proportions the norm. Here on Long Island, cabernet only ripens fully in the best years and in the best spots. Roanoke Vineyards, one of the western-most vineyards on the North Fork is one of those special locations. This wine shows just how good East Coast cab can be.
Runners Up: Paumanok Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vintage ($39), Martha Clara Vineyards 2001 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)
Best Cabernet Franc: Jamesport Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc ($40)
Merlot gets most of the headlines, but when it’s done well, local cabernet franc can be just as spectacular. Jamesport Vineyards has a great reputation for this under-appreciated grape and the 2004 builds on that tradition of quality with generous, but not jammy fruit character accented by smoky and earthy notes.
Runners Up: Pellegrini Vineyards 2001 Cabernet Franc ($20), Waters Crest Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc ($25)
Best Pinot Noir: Wolffer Estate 2004 Pinot Noir ($45)
Pinot Noir is well known as a grape that can be difficult to grow. That’s why it’s called the heartbreak grape afterall. But, there are a few local producers can be counted on for good, delicate pinot with lots of flavor. Wolffer Estate doesn’t make a lot of it, but what it does make is almost always good.
Runners Up: Jamesport Vineyards 2004 Pinot Noir ($35), Castello di Borghese 2002 Pinot Noir ($25)
Best Red Blend: Roanoke Vineyards 2003 Blend 2 ($36)
There seems to be a growing sentiment that blending red varietals is the best way to show off Long Island’s unique terroir. That is debatable, but the deliciousness of many local blends — with this one my favorite — cannot be contested.
Runners Up: Paumanok Vineyards 2004 Assemblage ($36), Ternhaven Vineyards 2001 Claret D’Alvah ($20)
Best Other Red: Raphael 2004 Malbec ($25)
Available only to their wineclub, Raphael�s malbec is proof positive that the grape most associated with Argentina can shine here on Long Island. Intense black currant, black tea and cedar aromas and flavor make this wine as delicious as it is unique. Runner Up: Channing Daughters Winery 2004 Blaufrankish ($24)
est Chardonnay: Paumanok Vineyards 2004 Chardonnay Grand Vintage ($30)
There is a ton (actually a lot more than that) of chardonnay grown and made on Long Island, in an endless array of styles — all oak, some oak, no oak, partial malolactic fermenation (ML), complete ML, no ML — but this chardonnay from Paumanok blew me away from the very first sip. The nose is rich and ripe with pineapple and mandarin orange aromas accented by toasted coconut. Expertly balanced with medium body and a creamy-yet-fresh mouthfeel, the intense flavors closely match the nose with a elongated, elegant finish. And this is still a young wine that should develop over time.
Runners Up: Channing Daughters Winery 2004 L’enfant Sauvage Chardonnay ($35), Lenz Winery 2004 Old Vines Chardonnay ($25), Corey Creek 2005 Chardonnay Reserve ($30)
Best Riesling: Peconic Bay Winery 2005 Riesling ($15)
Long Island doesn’t make the best Riesling in New York State — that title is held by the Finger Lakes region. But, that doesn’t mean there aren’t any Rieslings of note here. Peconic Bay winemaker Greg Gove made this taut and somewhat restrained wine that displays nice lemon-lime aromas accented by desirable hints of minerals and petrol. Light residual sugar is barely noticeable because of vibrant acidity that brings structure and focus to lime-dominated flavors.
Runners Up: Paumanok 2005 Dry Riesling ($20), Waters Crest Winery 2005 Riesling ($18)
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Channing Daughters Winery 2005 Mudd Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($18)
Made with fruit from 25-year old vines, winemaker Chris Tracy added 17% Chardonnay (Musque clone) into his sauvignon blanc, which brings appealing nuance and texture. Clean, citrusy and fresh, this wine is lightly floral on the nose, with fresh spring herbs in the mix as well.
Runners Up: Jamesport Vineyards 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($15), Raphael 2005 Sauvignon Blanc ($22)
Best White Blend: Bedell Cellars 2005 Gallery ($45)
Some of the most nuanced, interesting white wines made locally are blends. I’ve said it before but it bears repeating — Bedell Cellars’ 2005 Gallery, a unique blend of chardonnay, viognier and gewurztraminer captures the taste of Long Island like few other whites. If you can get your hands on some, you’ll taste what I mean.
Runners Up: Bedell Cellars 2005 TASTE White ($25), any white blend from Channing Daughters Winery
Best Other White: Corey Creek 2005 Gewurztraminer ($25)
Again, while merlot garners praise from critics, some think that Long Island is really best suited as a white wine region. I don’t necessarily agree, but there are some terrific whites beyond the big three (chardonnay, Riesling and sauvignon blanc), including this one — the best dry gewurztraminer on the East Coast and possible the continent.
Runners Up: Lieb Family Cellars 2005 Pinot Blanc ($19), Channing Daughters Winery 2005 Pinot Grigio ($18)
Best Sparkling Wine: Lenz Winery 1994 Cuvee RD ($50)
This a wine to share with your snobby friends who love and only drink true Champagne. Made with chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, it is dry, yeasty, nutty and super flavorful without being fruity.
Runners Up: Lieb Family Cellars 2003 Blanc de Blancs ($36), Martha Clara Vineyards 2001 Blanc de Blanc ($35)
Best Dessert Wine: Waters Crest Winery 2004 Night Watch ($45)
A small-production dessert wine made with frozen gewurztraminer, riesling and chardonnay grapes, it is named "Night Watch" because winemaker Jim Waters did just that — watch it all day and night for four full days without a minute of sleep. The result is a rich, intricate dessert wine that is sweet, but balanced. It’s filled with apricot and tropical fruit aromas and flavors with just a hint of vanilla.
Runners Up: Wolffer Estate 2005 Late Harvest Chardonnay ($37), Macari Vineyards 2003 Block E ($36)
You’ll notice that I didn’t highlight any rose in this column. That’s just because I like rose super-fresh and just-released and because many of the best have sold out already. But fear not, the 2006 roses will be released in only a few months. Look for those from Channing Daughters Winery, Wolffer Estate, Roanoke Vineyards and Lieb Family Cellars.
I’m still introducing myself to LI wines. Taking a look at this list, I must say that I’m a bit shocked by the prices I see. Most Finger Lakes wines manage to stay under $20. Those that are of a limited production or special reserve usually range up to $29, with the exception being sparkling wines or ice wines which sometimes creep just above $30. These price guidelines hold for the wines of even the “top” wineries such as Dr. Frank’s or Wiemer.
So, why are so many LI wines priced so much above their New York counterparts?
Jason,
When I was in California this summer, prices were generally higher there than they are here on Long Island…
You probably know the Finger Lakes wines better than I do, so I can’t speak to their prices, but I can certainly make a couple comments here.
First, is overhead/cost of operations. My guess is that land and labor costs in Central New York are a whole lot cheaper than they are on Long Island. That bumps up the cost of wines a bit.
Second is hand harvesting. Again, I’m not sure what percentage of Finger Lakes wines are made with hand-harvested fruit, but I’m willing to bet that almost all of the fruit that went into the wines I’ve listed here was picked by hand — obviously a lot more expensive than using mechanical pickers.
Third is oak barrels. The Finger Lakes excel with bright, aromatic whites and the best wines don’t see a second in oak, which probably keeps the costs down some.
Forth…the market here will bear higher prices. I think, because of LI’s proximity to Manhattan, people are used to paying a bit more for things than they probably are in central NY.
There are obviously other things at play here. I also think that you are a bit spoiled
I’m sure some of my wine industry readers will chime in here…
Quality might be an issue as well. Beyond riesling and gewurzt (sometimse), I think LI wines are better overall.
There’s hardly a doubt that many, if not most, Californian wines are extremely overpriced. Don’t get me started on France. Overall, in the greater wine world, the price of LI wines is hardly outrageous.
In the Finger Lakes there are an insane amount of variations of wine production methods, but I think it could be generalized that the costs of labor and production, whether hand-picking is used or not, are lower. While some FL wines are not oaked, many of them are. Generally, I’d assume most oak costs to be similar.
However, I think that some of the more heralded wineries would charge a heck of a lot more if they could. Dr. Frank’s dry riesling could probably be priced at $40 a bottle. Why isn’t it? First, like you said, we do not share a proximity to a Manhattan or a Boston or any source of wealth like that. Secondly, the variation of grape varieties, aka the sweet stuff, competes heavily with the vinifera. Even the best wineries realize that the consumer might purchase bottles at a neighboring winery for $10 a pop and then scoff at paying three or four times that at the next stop. No, this doesn’t address what’s actually in the bottle, but it does reflect human nature. As more and more FL wineries embrace vinifera, perhaps the costs will go up due to more uniformal offerings.
And, yes, I do think the general weakness of FL reds helps keep costs down. While Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc find success during most vintages, there are a couple of spoilers thrown in. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are only worth the effort in a few select years.
The one advantage to lower prices, however, is that it makes the wine more accesible to a wider swath of curious consumers. I imagine that some people might skip over a LI red because, for the same price, they know for sure that a California red is probably going to be at least okay. I truly believe one of the reasons FL rieslings have gained such traction is because they are priced lower than a lot of German and French counterparts.
Jason, you have hit the nail on the head regarding one of my biggest issues with LI wines. I love them and visit the wineries at least twice a year for extended visits. And I often try to bring other wine lovers with me to open up their experience to LI. Most usually come away impressed with the visit, but they don’t come away with many purchases. The feedback I always get is that for the price of good LI wine ($25 - $40) they can easily find GREAT wine from other places.
I like the wines from LI because I do get a sense of “place” when tasting them, and for this I’m willing to pay a premium. But for many people in search of good wine in the $12 - $18 range, LI isn’t going to make their shopping list.
Yeah, I’ve heard similar thoughts from others as well. Most people I know who are casual wine drinkers rarely spend above $20 if they can help it, and will only do so if there is a “guarantee” (aka California) that it will be worth the effort. I have no way of knowing for sure, but I can’t imagine that the relative price of LI wines is helpful to their cause.
In the Finger Lakes, the various circumstances that keep prices down have probably helped introduce the wines to a broader audience. Recently, one of my relatives saw the Wine Spectator that featured New York, and she bought some FL rieslings from some of the best producers simply because they were all around $15-17 in price. If she had to spend $30-50 based solely on critical praise, she most definitely would have opted out.
In my own case, I’ve been hesitant to buy the more expensive LI reds because of their price. I’m glad Lenn has continued to make suggestions that will help me zero in on what’s worth it! Another problem altogether is that, so far, LI wines are hard to find upstate…
Hi, I think one of the key issues here is the ‘perception’ many have on LI wines. Now this summer, we toured the area and found many spectacular and award winning wines.
However, here in Manhattan at least, many … er, ‘lesser’ winneries donate wine to events in exchange for publicity. Invariably, people speak of the LI wine in disparaging terms and it gets a bad rep.
Not sure how the situation can be remedied and of course, the wineries are generous to donate, but this is the state of the issue.
Marisa D’Vari, wine storyteller, http://AWineStory.com
I’m planning a trip to the North Fork wineries in May. I’m looking to buy a case of red and a case of white for easy summer drinking, mostly with food. I’m looking to spend around $15.00 a bottle. Any suggestions for lower cost, easy drinking summer wines?