New York Cork Report

Who is Brian Sedgwick and How Well Do New York Wineries Respond to Email Inquiries?

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

For a significant portion of their potential customer base, a winery's website is the first point of contact and communication. It's the front lines in the battle for mind share and dollars.

Most New York wineries have websites nowadays -- even if many are painfully out of date -- but how well do wineries monitor leads and inquiries that come in via their website or email?

We wanted to find out.

So, over the last six to eight weeks, more than 170 New York wineries -- across the Erie, Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley, Long Island and Niagara regions -- received an email from Brian Sedgwick. The emails were always sent on a Tuesday and in them, Brian let the wineries know that he'd be touring their region the upcoming Saturday and Sunday. He also asked four basic questions:

• What time do you open and close on weekends?
• How much is your tasting fee and how many wines do we get to taste?
• What other wineries around yours would you recommend?
• Do you have recommended restaurants nearby?

Who is Brian Sedgwick and why was he visiting so many New York wine regions during such a short period of time?

Brian Sedgwick isn't real. I made him up and created an email address from which these emails went out... and the results have been nothing short of fascinating -- and in many cases disheartening.

We're still crunching the numbers, but before we start publishing the results, I wanted to outline our process.

First, we used the winery lists on the New York Wine & Grape Foundation website as our starting point. We focused on wineries -- removing mead and cider producers. We also used the email addresses listed on the NYWGF website unless a different email address was listed on the winery's individual website. In cases where more than one email address was listed on a winery website, we used the most "generic" one.

As I said, all emails were sent out on Tuesdays and -- with some help from our technical director, Brian Yanosik -- every winery in a particular region received the email at the same time. We then tracked whether or not we got a response, when we got it and how many of the four questions posed were answered (this proved tricky for seasonal regions where a significant number of wineries close for the winter).

One other item of note -- if a winery's website didn't list an email address, but instead had a contact form, we used the email address posted on the NYWGF site. We thought it important that every winery (in a region) get the same message the same way at the same time. And, if I really were visiting a wine region for the first time, I'm much more likely to send out a mass email than I am to fill out a dozen or more online forms.

We'll start publishing region-by-region results next week, focusing on some high-level response rates and highlighting some of the best responses.

If you're a winery owner/manager/winemaker and you're curious how your winery handled the inquiry (or not), just let us know and we'll share the full details privately.

What We Drank (March 29, 2010)

This is what our editors and contributors are drinking..

Evan Dawson: Johnson Estate 2006 Chancellor (Chautauqua - Lake Erie)

Every wine region needs to identify what it does best. It's a process that can take many years.

I wonder if the Erie-Chautauqua region has found their most reliable red in Chancellor. This hybrid makes wine with an opaque color that either evokes Leon Millet or Mega Purple -- either way, it's dark.

But it's soft and approachable on the palate. An oaked Chancellor can wear the wood on its sleeve; I'm told this version was aged in stainless steel, but perhaps the folks at Johnson can clarify.

It's a touch foxy, but smooth and nicely done.

Lenn Thompson: Red Hook Winery 2008 Jamesport Vineyard/Abe Schoener Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island)

It wasn't easy choosing my WWD this week because I was lucky enough to taste several fun and interesting wines (blind) last week at a dinner with some local winemakers, winery owners and wine geeks. There were some impressive upcoming local releases, some older Alsatian wines from the 1980s and this recent release from Red Hook Winery.

There has been a lot said/printed about this project (see our post/comments), but I was glad someone brought this wine to dinner. I've been trying to get my hands on some for weeks.

Blind, I thought it was local cab franc (one of the few I got right that night, by the way) from a cooler year. There was some nice blackberry fruit, but also spice and quite a bit of roasted jalapeno pepper. There is a bit more structure here than I'm used to with local franc (especially in 2008) and someone at the table wondered if there is some merlot blended in to flesh it out a bit.

I'm not sure why, but I expected these Red Hook wines to be less regionally and varietally typical than this. I look forward to tasting more of them and exploring them more.

Bryan Calandrelli: Boroli 2004 Barolo

Once again thanks to higher education I get to try wines meant for a wine evaluation college course. This past week the theme was Italian wine. If there were a region that I’m most comfortable tasting blind this would be it.

That being said, in a line up of six wines, it was all too easy to pick out this Boroli Barolo 2004. With aromas of dark cherries, licorice and tar this wine was clearly in the Italian mold. The mouthfeel was rough and rustic with enormous grip for a six year old wine.

If I would have forked over the $60 for this bottle, I would’ve ultimately been disappointed that I drank it too soon. While I could have left my nose in the glass for days, the palate was just too edgy.

It just needs time or a perfect food pairing at this stage.

Tom Mansell: Sour Ales at Russian River Brewing Company

I spent last week at a conference in San Francisco, so of course I wanted to visit California wine country. I rented a car and drove up the 101 to Sonoma County, where I visited two wineries. 

Both Michel Schlumberger and C. Donatiello poured excellent wines. I was particularly taken with the Donatiello Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, which finished exactly as if I had just eaten a Bartlett pear.

However, the highlight of the trip was stopping at Russian River Brewing Company in Santa Rosa, where for $15 we got a flight featuring every beer they were pouring. If you have ever heard of Russian River, then you know this was an opportunity I couldn't pass up.

The IPAs are very good,  including the exceptionally balanced Pliny the Elder, their flagship brew. However, the real stars were the sour ales: Supplication, Temptation and Consecration.

Sour ales brewed with Brettanomyces and other wild yeasts are a hot item among craft breweries lately. These were aged in oak and had a tart,  complex, vinous quality that was really outstanding.

Russian River has very limited availability on the East Coast (I think there is a distributor somewhere near Philadelphia), so if you know someone going to California, make sure they bring you back some Russian River!

Julia Burke: Kleinood Tamboerskloof 2006 Shiraz 

I bought this wine solely because of the label - something I wouldn't normally do in the States, but here I can afford to experiment a little. 

South Africa's WINE magazine has a column that discusses wine packaging, and this shiraz was this month's feature; the label stuck with me and when I saw it in the shop I couldn't resist picking it up.

Sure, the producer is just around the corner from Blaauwklippen and I'm always interested in comparing wines that share our terroir -- but even if that hadn't been the case the simple, refreshingly understated label sold me.

Fortunately, the wine didn't disappoint. The nose is quite subtle at first showing just a little meaty brett action (I'm realizing I'm going to have to review a brett-free wine next time to avoid perpetuating a stereotype!), cherry and baked plum, and some nice floral hibiscus despite an earthy kalamata olive thing happening. Bright cherry/raspberry flavors on the midpalate gave it a down-to-earth, controlled finish.

At US$6 I'd say this was a label-based purchase to which I don't mind admitting guilt.

Finding the Chautauqua-Lake Erie Wines of the Year -- and Finding a Region's Emerging Personality

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor

Photos by Morgan Dawson Photography

In a chic western New York wine bar called Sapore, on a quiet Sunday afternoon, a group of colleagues and competitors did something they had never done before. They poured one another's wines in an introduction to the New York Cork Report and an effort to promote the Chautauqua-Lake Erie wine trail.

 

Producers chose to feature only white and dessert wines for this tasting, and while these wines represented the best of this wine region, they're not showing the same quality that consumers can find in the Finger Lakes and Long Island. But for now, they don't have to. More than anything, this region needs to demonstrate consistency and a baseline of quality to tourists, local wine enthusiasts, and curious writers.

 

The tasting showed that the early drumbeat of quality is getting louder, though it's not without a few off notes.

 

"We have our eyes wide open when it comes to what we should be growing and what grapes will produce the best quality," said Jennifer Johnson of Johnson Estate, the oldest regional commercial winery and the clear leader in quality.

 

That search for the best regional viticultural fit should be the top priority for any emerging wine region. Growers can waste immeasurable resources on attempting to ripen cabernet sauvignon, but they're dreaming a nearly impossible dream. A wine region's awakening coincides with the discovery of its most suitable grape varieties. Here in the rolling land that lies not far from Lake Erie, some growers still struggle with warm-climate grapes - but more are ripping out those vines in favor of a range of more suitable options.

 

And yet of the 30,000 acres under vine in this region, roughly 28,000 are planted to Concord and Niagara. The locals jokingly wonder aloud what old Mr. Welch would think about the rising tide of vinifera and hybrids. Winery owners say that vinifera and hybrids can thrive here - but they must be cool-climate grapes, like pinot grigio and traminette, Chancellor and Vidal Blanc. But they also stand by the wide appeal of Concord grapes and Concord wines. It's a thriving variety, and seeking to eliminate it would be a serious mistake.

"Look outside," said Fred Johnson of Johnson Estate, pointing to the snowbanks lining the Westfield street. "This is Germany, not France."

The white wine tasting revealed some surprising potential - as well as some puzzling decisions. To wit: Why did one winery submit a chardonnay that wasn't simply oaky; it was like an abusive relationship where the chardonnay refuses to leave the oak that's causing the problem?

And why submit a riesling that is either heavily reductive or clearly cut with some portion of native grapes? (Both, perhaps).

But there were some pleasant wines and some wines that show an opportunity for the region. We selected three white wines to take with us to our January 23 New York Cork Report Wines of 2009 tasting.

We also selected the 2009 Chautauqua-Lake Erie dessert wine of the year. (That's because, of four dessert wines submitted, one was a clear standout with no reasonable competition).

Here are the finalists for wine of the year from this region. Thanks to Sapore in Westfield, a classy wine bar that hosted the tasting. It's spots like Sapore that fit perfectly into the fabric of an emerging wine region and help elevate its status.

Johnson Estate Winery 2008 Vidal Blanc

This was the revelation of the tasting, a white wine that threatens to become cloyingly sweet before a current of acidity emerges in the finish and amps up the flavors. All of this in a Vidal Blanc, most commonly used for dessert wine. "We think it's versatile," winemaker Jeff Murphy told me. "We're not afraid to see what it can do beyond an ice wine, and we're happy with what it's shown."

Liberty Vineyards 2008 Pinot Grigio

Evokes the straightforward northern Italian pinot grigios. Crisp, showing a nice aromatic profile that carries through to the palate. Went nicely with lunch. I asked Liberty Vineyards owner Gary Burmaster about the potential of this grape in the region. "We think it has a place," he replied. "We think dry whites like pinot grigio are doing very well." He didn't go into depth about the specifics of this grape and why it might stand out, but this wasn't the only pinot grigio in the tasting, and clearly other growers are excited about it.

Vetter Vineyards NV Dry Riesling

The other Rieslings in this tasting showed a processed corn character, evoking a range of candy flavors from Lik-m-Aid to Now And Later to Bazooka Joe gum. This Riesling brought a nice varietal character, led by waves of grapefruit. The strong aromatics made it even more appealing. Taken down a notch because not all of the fruit is from Chautauqua-Erie.  

Winemakers in this region also speak optimistically of Traminette, and Johnson Estate produces a seriously aromatic version that indicates their optimism is warranted.

Now, the dessert wine of the year from this region:

Johnson Estate Winery 2006 Ice Vidal

Slightly hot, this wine brings a complex melange that includes apricot, honey, and maple candy. It's more lithe in the mouth than I expected, with a kiss of butterscotch to round it off. Well done.

Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail: Not What You Think. Not Too Sweet.

By Julia Burke, Niagara Escarpment Correspondent

Though I had to get the Schloss Doepken experience off my chest, it’s only fair that I take some time to report on the other wineries I visited during my trip to the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail last week.

Following the recommendations of winery employees, I visited Sparkling Ponds Winery, Mazza Vineyards, Noble Winery and Johnson Estate Winery.

I was pleasantly surprised with several of the wines I tried. It seems many Lake Erie wineries are making drier, more crisp and composed versions of what are traditionally mass-appeal sweet wines such as Catawba and Niagara. When I asked whether there is more of a demand for these relatively dry native grapes the general response from winery staff was that this is what they want to make, and local folks seem to like it.

Sparkling Ponds surprised me with relatively dry, well-made natives and hybrids. Their Cayuga with 1.5% RS showed a nice balance of acidity and tropical fruit, and the Catawba (white, not pink!) had a pleasant nose of peach, lemon and lime zest. Their Noiret showed a gorgeous deep blackberry color with an earthy nose, clove, allspice and a flash of black currant, and a smoky finish with impressive length. The Marechal Foch was gamey and almost bloody – a great match for seared venison. Labrusca and hybrid grapes are grown on the estate; the winemaker, Burt, who looks no older than a college freshman, expressed a hope to experiment with more dry reds as the estate vineyards expand.

Mazza has the curious position of having two locations in two different states (North East, Pennsylvania and Mayville, New York). The tasting room server explained that Mazza cannot legally sell New York wine in Pennsylvania or vice versa, so having two locations essentially allows them to maximize their selling potential with two vineyards and two tasting rooms.

Mazza’s 2008 Riesling offered a nice coconut/apple nose with bright acidity, not particularly complex but fun and fruity. They make several dry reds with grapes from the Finger Lakes and Ontario including cabernet franc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, all of which showed nice fruit and light tannins despite a rather pedestrian finish. With its size, unique position in the region, and the passion and expertise of winemaker Mario Mazza, who shows a particular interest in furthering the region’s reputation for ice wine (Mazza was the first winery in Pennsylvania to produce ice wine), this winery is certainly a top candidate to produce excellent dry, sweet and specialty wines in the future.

The best red of the day, with a not-too-oaky vanilla nose, luscious black cherry, and a firm tannic grip, was the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon at Noble Winery – when I asked where the grapes were grown, I expected to hear North Fork, but it turned out they come from the Jordan family’s vineyard right in Chautauqua. Tasting this cab made me wonder why some of the other wineries couldn’t produce the same quality in reds.

Like the other wineries I visited, Noble keeps the residual sugar on its Labrusca fairly low for a more polished balance. Their “Old Italian Red”, an interesting packaging of Concord, was an impressive incarnation of the grape with hints of hazelnut and vanilla.

The Noiret smelled to me like a Christmas gift shop – honey-baked ham and orange-and-clove potpourri. Having little experience with Noiret, I asked our very helpful server for some background, and he whipped out a laminated family tree diagramming the heritage of the Noiret grape. I was impressed.

Finally, Noble’s Concord Port tasted exactly like how it sounds. With nice spices and a small whiff of licorice, it was quite pleasant – seems as though Noble has hit on two great ways to put a twist on the Concord grape.

Johnson Estate, clearly one of the most well-known wineries on Lake Erie, did not disappoint with several tasty wines. Their Traminette showed lychee, nutmeg, whole clove, rose petal, and pumpkin, and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon showed young tannins and fruit but nice length. Finally, their Ice Wine of Vidal had a lovely crushed hazelnut flavor on the nose as well as pretty fruits and honey – a great buy at $34.99.

It seems the Chautauqua/Lake Erie wine region is worth multiple trips – I’d like to come back and explore more of this region that seems to have definite potential for ice wine, hybrids and even dry red wines. Because the region is relatively under-the-radar on the national wine scene, it’s relatively informal – many wines don’t list vintages, tasting room service varies widely, and many wineries are buying most or all of their grapes from other regions. On the other hand, I’ve visited many world-class wineries and have never been shown the entire ancestry of a grape.

Q&A;: Wendy Dunst, Grape Grower, Piranha Vineyards

By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

This week's Q&A is our first from someone in the western New York wine region. Today, we chat with grape grower Wendy Dunst.

From 1999 to 2001, she and her husband Rick converted a Concord vineyard to a three acre wine grape vineyard in the heart of the Lake Erie region in Sheridan, NY. 

Operating under the name Piranha Vineyards, Wendy and Rick grow pinot gris,  shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and carménère. They are also  accidental growers of pinot noir due to a mix-up in the nursery, growing just enough to fill a single barrel.

Wendy has been known to “work for wine” in the tasting room at the winery located conveniently across the street from her house, Liberty Vineyards & Winery, which also buys much of the Piranha fruit.

When she's not pursuing all things wine related, Wendy works as an admissions officer and recruiter for SUNY Fredonia Graduate Studies. 

And now, our standard set of questions:

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?

My folks were wine drinkers, so there was always something interesting to try around the house. Even as a teenager, I loved dry red wines. I couldn’t tell you exactly which wine I drank first, but I know it was a Sangiovese. There was also plenty of Blue Nun around, but I didn’t touch THAT stuff!

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?

Fox Run Vineyards 2000 Pinot Noir. I was just learning about the New York wine industry and thought that, if pinot noir THAT good could be made in New York state, I wanted to be part of it. Sadly, I haven’t yet had another Finger Lakes pinot noir that has entranced me as much as that 2000 vintage.

Which of the current wines made from your fruit is your favorite and why? 

Hard to pick a favorite as I change my mind from time to time. It’s a toss-up between the Liberty Vineyards 2008 Syrah and their 2008 Pinot Noir.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the western NY wine community? 

The amount of knowledge one must have to simply grow the grapes, much less the skill involved in making them into wonderful wines. I’m constantly learning new things -- and that makes me happy. I truly cherish the connections with like-minded people, and especially traveling with people more knowledgeable than I.

Other than wines made from your fruit, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass? 

I love Finger Lakes wines, and have been enjoying Wiemer’s and Red Newt's rosé and Ventosa's Tocai Friulini when I can get them. I’m a big fan of wines that accurately represent the grape in the glass. Channing Daughters wines always seem to fit this requirement and I especially enjoy their pinot grigio and Mosaico wines. I’ve enjoyed Conundrum in the past, but recent vintages have been less tasty than earlier vintages.  Vineland (in Ontario) is another favorite. Their whites are very clean and well made. I love red wine, too, but drink mostly stuff made from our grapes. Oh, and I adore great zinfandel but can barely ever find one to get passionate about.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?  

I rarely drink Chardonnay with seafood, simply because I’m not a fan of most Chardonnay.  Other than that, I find most traditional pairings to work well.  I mostly love discovering new pairings, especially combinations you don’t think will play nicely together.  It’s always a treat to discover something new.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.

The ultimate wine-drinking experience is very laid back for me. It involves adventurous friends, a variety of wine and food, eating outside -- preferably near water -- and plenty of time to taste and share. I love harvest dinners or other parties where all the participants are interested in sharing their wine experiences and I love blind tastings. I love traveling to other regions and tasting with local experts.

The Unique Tasting Room Experience That is Schloss Doepken

By Julia Burke, Niagara Correspondent

This week I decided to take a break from my usual Niagara Escarpment stomping grounds and take a trip down to the Chautauqua-Lake Erie Wine Trail. Following the lake forty miles from southern New York into northwestern Pennsylvania, the Chautauqua-Lake Erie Wine Trail includes twenty-one wineries and nearly 30,000 acres of vineyards. A visit seemed long overdue.

During my visit I tasted at Quincy Cellars, Sparkling Ponds, Mazza, Schloess Doepken, Johnson Estates and Noble Winery. All were interesting, and I hope to devote a future post to a discussion of their individual merits. However, my experience at Schloss Doepken truly deserves its own post.

Disclaimer: Schloss Doepken is by no means representative of the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail as a whole.

We followed the signs to Schloss Doepken, winding away from the main drag up a desolate hill, and pulled up to what looked like a private residence. The tasting room is a blue farmhouse with a hand-painted sign.

Inside, an older gentleman who I assumed to be the owner greeted us. So far, so good, but things started to get odd when he asked me to read the back label of his wine out loud, “to get some background.”

He introduced each wine with a conspiratorial whisper, which at first seemed charmingly eccentric as he promised me his riesling would “turn your Colonel Sanders into a chicken banquet” and that his red blend would “turn your McDonalds burger into prime rib.”

But when he advised that a cabernet before its time was like an eight-year-old girl who had not yet matured sexually, the whispering became a little creepy. I began to wonder if this gentleman was planning on turning us into prime rib. I scanned the floor for trap doors.

Things got weirder.

When I remarked that the unoaked chardonnay had nice layers, he snapped, “You’re being too analytical.” Seeing my tasting buddy slurping his wine, he snarled, “What are you doing?” with as much alarm as if he had been trying to eat the label. At my friend’s attempt to take a photo of him, he demanded that I pose with him. At the words “She’ll get behind the bar with me,” I realized it was time to leave.

My tasting fee at Schloss Doepken was $58. This is because the owner is intensely fixated on guilt-tripping his guests into purchasing wine. In order to taste his 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, by far the most interesting-looking item on the tasting menu, we had to purchase two glasses and were asked to buy a bottle at $27.95.

I was told by an employee at another winery that this guy is known for blocking the door with his cane and even smacking guests with it when they attempt to leave without making a purchase. We bought wine as quickly as possible and high-tailed it out of the house as the old man threatened to pour us more tepid apple crisp-flavored wine.

An employee at a neighboring winery cracked up when we related our twilight-zone experience. “You should see the other guy that works there – one of his eyes is glass, and the other has no eyelid,” he said.

Such was my maiden voyage into the Chautauqua wine scene. No matter what else I may encounter in this region, I will never forget the day I decided to start bringing pepper spray to wine tastings.

The New York Cork Club

It's been some time since I've written anything about the New York Cork Club here on LENNDEVOURS. I used to mention it once a month as we were sending out the wines, but I stopped because I wasn't sure if non-members cared. Actually, I doubt they did.

But you know what? I love this club and it's something I'm really enjoying working on. And, it's something that I'd like to see succeed, because there really isn't another club like it.

There are some other lesser New York wine clubs out there, but they seem to sell their members end-of-vintage wines and wines that are available at least somewhat widely. The NYCC is different. I'm scouring the state for the best, most interesting and most unique wines available. Many of these wines aren't available anywhere but at the wineries themselves...or through the New York Cork Club.

I know that several of you have thought about joining but weren't sure about it. If you're not sure, give it a shot for a month or two and see what you think. If you don't like it, you can cancel at any time. If you do like it, I hope you stick around for a long while. And, we're offering these wines at lower prices than buying them direct from the winery now, so that's a bonus.

I can't tell you what wines we're sending in April yet (though I can tell you that one is from a new Finger Lakes winery and one is from a tiny little Long Island producer), but I highlight some of the most interesting ones from recent shipments:

• Osprey's Dominion 2005 Pinot Noir: Quite Possibly the best NY pinot I've ever tasted...and only available in the tasting room until now.
• Raphael 2002 First Label Merlot: I don't think I've tasted a better Long Island merlot at the price.
• Paumanok 2004 Grand Vintage Assemblage: Though still young, a great blend that will age well
• Medolla 2002 Merlot: They only make 500 cases of this (their only wine) and it's a steal. Classic Long Island merlot.
• Rooster Hill 2006 Semi-Dry Riesling: This was a new winery for me and even though I usually prefer dry rieslings from the Finger Lakes, this one was awesome with Thai.

Now, I'm working with some of New York's best known producers to dig deep into their libraries and pull out some older vintage wines that aren't even available at the wineries anymore. Stay tuned for those.

Sign up today. I think you'll dig it.

We have a Wine Chick now...one of the originals

If you've been dipping your toe in the wine blogging pool for very long knows "The Wine Chicks,"one of the most irreverent wine blogs around. You may have also noticed that The Wine Chicks seem to have flown the coop -- the blog has been on hiatus for a while now.

Jay, one of the founding chicks, has let me know that it will be revived in the future, but in the meantime, I'm happy to report that she will be joining the LENNDEVOURS team as a special contributor. I know that Jay has a lot of fans out there, so this is a bit of a coup for this lil wine blog.

What will she be covering? I don't know yet! She's a woman of many interests and skill sets, but you can bet it will focus on the food and wine scene in her new home of Buffalo, NY. And something tells me that organic and sustainable will be themes as well.

Duncan Ross Interview at AppellationAmerica.com

So what have you heard about the wines coming out of the Niagara Escarpment? Isn't it way too cold up there to grow grapes?

Actually no and I didn't know much about the region either until I really started to research the region as I prepared for my interview with Duncan Ross, founder of and winemaker for Arrowhead Spring Vineyard.

It turns out that the Escarpment itself--the geological feature, not the region--is the very reason why they can ripen grapes fully so close to the Canadian border. In fact, it's the second warmest region in New York state. Long Island is the warmest.

Arrowhead Spring is scheduled to open their tasting room and release their first wines next spring. But, you can learn all about Duncan, the unique terroir of the region and his new vineyard over at Appellation America.

Check it out.

New NY Wine Blog: NiagaraEscarpment.net

Have you heard about the Niagara Escarpment wine region in Western New York?

I have, but I'll admit to not knowing a whole lot about it or its wines. Very few of the wines make it to Long Island and, so far, very few wineries that I've dealt with have much interest in publicizing their wines in this part of the state.

But, that might be changing. Duncan Ross, of not-yet-opened Arrowhead Springs Winery, and I just did an interview together that will be published over at Appellation America soon--and I learned a ton about the region. It's really an incredible geological phenomenon. But more on that when the story is published.

In the meantime, I wanted to tell you about a new blog, NiagaraEscarpment.net, run by Bryan Calandrelli. You know Bryan already if you read many wine blogs. He's the founder of Water Into Wino. He's also a a fellow cabernet franc lover.

He's recently moved up that way (and has even planted a couple grape vines with plans for more in the future) and he has already proven to be the online resource for the wine and wine country.

Check out the new blog.

WTNs: Vetter Vineyards' Current Releases (Lake Erie)

I obviously taste--and write about--a lot of different New York wines. The vast majority come from Long Island, but there are a lot of wines from the Hudson River Valley and Finger Lakes regions that pass my lips too.

But, western New York state has proven a tough nut to crack. For one, I can't get any of their wines locally. And two, few of them seem very press savvy. I've emailed all of them on numerous occasions asking for press kids and for a list of places where they sell their wine in the NYC metro area. Usually my emails go ignored.

But one winery in Westfield, NY on the shores of Lake Erie--Vetter Vineyards on the Chautauqua Wine Trail--did get back to me. They even sent me some wines to taste.             

As a youth growing up in Western Pennsylvania, my family had a three-season cottage on Chautauqua Lake. And, with teachers for parents, we used to spend a lot of time there during the summer. But we never knew anything about any local wine industry. We were too busy enjoying the first-rate wings at a place called The Casino on Bemus Point.

From the sounds of it, Vetter Vineyards hasn't always focused on quality over quantity. But, current owners Mark and Barbara Lancaster--who bought the wine estate from the Vetter family in 2003 are out to change that.

Mark has over 20 years experience in the wine industry and he hopes to produce smaller batches of               quality wine that can be made from the grapes they grow on their own land, including pinot noir, shiraz, merlot, pinot grigio, riesling, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. The Lancasters want to make               Vetter the region's premier boutique winery.      

Unfortunately, after tasting four of Lancaster's wines, I think they have a ways to go to accomplish that goal--at least by Long Island wine standards.

My blind tasting started off well enough, with a simple-but-well made dry riesling. So pale that it is almost colorless, it's a clean, well-balance white. The nose is fairly aromatic with grapefruit, lime and other citrus mingling with just a little mineral character. Somewhat Alsatian in style, the wine has medium body and flavors that closely match the nose with a stony, minerally finish. After tasting this one, my hopes were sky high for the rest of the Vetter wines.

Unfortunately, the chardonnay suffered from a complete lack of fruit. New, raw oak dominates the nose and while there is some nice creaminess and vanilla in the flavor profile, the oak just seems too heavy handed here, masking any fruit character that was there to begin with. Maybe chardonnay does better in this region when made without barrel fermentation and/or aging.

Next was an extremely intriguing wine, a Traminette. Never heard of that grape? Don't worry, it's not that well known outside of central and western New York. A hybrid grape created at Cornell University, it was made by crossing gewürztraminer with sevyal blanc. The result, at least in this bottle, seems tobe a wine that is strongly reminiscent of gewuerztraminer, but has some of the cold-hardiness of seyval. The nose is intense with flowers, lychee and pineapple. The palate, while a little sweet and lacking acidity, has bold flavors and a little spiciness. Overall, the balance is off here, but the potential seems to be there. Don't turn your nose up at this hybrid.

The only Vetter red wine I was able to taste, a 2005 pinot noir, is barely drinkable. I wish I could say that the bottle was corked, but it definitely wasn't. Maybe it  was just a bad bottle, but the flavors reminded me of a red delicious apple that you bit into and then leave on the counter--you know, the way it browns--and then bite it again. There's a little stewed black plum there too, but this is clearly not what I expected. I wish I had a second bottle to try, really.

These wines aren't available in any local shops that I know of, but you can visit their website for more information.

WTN: Ste. Chapelle 2005 Winemaker's Series Riesling (Idaho)

You read the post title right--this wine is from Idaho. In fact, I toyed with the idea of naming this post "Who Da Ho? I Da Ho." but thought better of it.

It's been a long time since I have made a tour stop in my 50 States. 50 Wineries. project, but I stumbled upon this wine at a small little wine shop in upstate New York. It was nestled in a display rack next to several Finger Lakes rieslings, and for $11 bucks, I thought "It's worth a shot."

And indeed it was.

Of course, most people think of potatoes when the think about Idaho, but apparently there was quite a wine industry there pre-Prohibition. And, with the success of wines from Washington and Oregon--Idaho's western neighbors--it shouldn't be surprising that wine is making a comeback.

Having never been there myself, I don't have any first-hand experience with Idaho's weather, but apparently, Idaho has very cold winters, but a moderate growing season, with a combination of cold nights and warm days. Warms days lead to ripe grapes and cold nights preserve acidity.

Sounds good to me, and while this wine isn't on par with the best U.S. rieslings I've had, it's far better than many that I have tasted.

In fact, if you like the off-dry style of many Pacific Northwest rieslings, this is a great value at 10-12 bucks a bottle.

The nose is somewhat faint, but offers subtle peach, apricot and citrus zest aromas with a little minerality in the background. The palate is fruity and somewhat soft, but the 2+% residual sugar is pretty well balanced by acidity. This isn't a racy, tense riesling (those are my favorites) but, again, if you like the softer, fruiter style of many U.S. rieslings, this is a nice example and a solid value.

Winners From the New York Wine and Food Classic

This week, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard's 2005 Dry Riesling ($16) defeated 702 other New York wines to win the Governor's Cup, awarded to the events best wine. Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars was named New York's "Winery of the Year" based on the number, and level, of medals its wines won.

Sponsored and run by the New York Wine and Grape Foundation (NYWGF), a nonprofit statewide trade organization based in the in newly opened New York Wine and Culinary Center.

Howard Goldberg reported in the New York Times, "The wine industry and influential wine periodicals treat the contest as the broadest, most representative index of the quality and styles of New York’s expanding wine industry." And, while probably true, I think it important to point out that not every winery (including some of the best) even send wines to this event.

But, the tasters can only taste what is put in front of them. The wines are tasted blind and by professionals, so the results are legit.

The winners by category for 2006 can be seen below. I only have a couple questions -- again because the panel can only taste what is put in front of them. I can't complain that some of the states best red wines weren't included, even though I think most people familiar with them will agree that New York's best cabernet sauvignon does not come out of the Finger Lakes. So:

Why isn't there a sauvignon blanc category? My guess is because outside of Long Island, no one is growing or making it. But, on Long Island, no one is growing stuff like Niagra or Cayuga either. In fact, there are very VERY few non-vinifera vines here.

A Finger Lakes bias? Maybe. I've heard grumblings of that locally. I think there should at least be an "Other White Vinifera" category like there is "Other Red Vinifera."

What is the difference, for this event, between "Late Harvest" and "Ice/Iced Wine"? I only ask because Wolffer's late harvest chardonnay is made from grapes that are frozen in a commerical freezer, so wouldn't that put it in the "Ice/Iced Wine" category? Maybe. Maybe not. I'll have to see if I can find out.

Buffalo-Area Baco Noir -- Another Reason to Drink Local

Jay of the Wine Chicks and also a fellow Wine Sediments contributor recently relocated from the NYC metro area to western NY -- Buffalo in fact.

The Buffalo area is apparently much more than chicken wings and beer.

Baco Noir a variety I don't know all that much about, is leading to some good wine from that area, particularly one from Peller Estates. Jay, a Long Island native, believes in drinking local I think...and you all know how I feel about that.

New Blog Find: East Coast Wineries

A friend of mine at Macari Vineyards just put me on to East Coast Wineries a blog that is new to me, but looks like it's been around at least a short while.

Some great content here, but Carlo makes it impossible to contact him. He doesn't offer an email link and doesn't seem to allow comments on the blog.

Maybe we can convince him to change all that and join the rest of us!

New York Wine Country Coverage Survey

For those of us who love New York wines, it can be frustrating to find good, in-depth information about them -- particularly if you live in the Finger Lakes and want Long Island information (or vice versa). Each region has it's own publications that cover wine (some very little, some quite a bit) but all of the wine-focused publications are 100% ad supported (often filled with ads paid for by wineries).

I had the idea recently to create an extension of LENNDEVOURS that will cover ALL of the wines and wine regions of New York and deliver them to you in one, neat package. Oh, and it will be independent...no winery ads accepted.

Now is your chance to let me know is this is a good idea. Please take a couple minutes and fill out this survey.

Fill Out the Survey, Today

New York Wine & Culinary Center Names Executive Director

Alexa Gifford has been named executive director of the not-yet-open New York Wine & Culinary Center (NYWCC). She joins the not-for-profit organization after more than five years with the Finger Lakes Tourism Alliance, most recently as the organization's president. Under the direction of the NYWCC's board of directors, Gifford will manage the Center's operations and lead a staff of full- and part-time personnel.

"The excitement is building for the opening of New York Wine and Culinary Center, and naming an executive director is an important step," said Rob Sands, COO and president of Constellation Brands, and chairman of the NYWCC board. "Three months after breaking ground on the site, it is wonderful to begin to assemble a dedicated team of professionals to lead the Center. The Board is looking forward to working with Alexa and is excited about what she brings to the table in the realm of tourism, community and government relations, as well as her overall enthusiasm about the center."

The New York Wine & Culinary Center, a $7.5 miilion gateway to New York State food, wine and agriculture, will open next summer in Canandaigua, N.Y. Constellation Brands, Inc., Wegmans, Rochester Institute of Technology, and the New York Wine & Grape Foundation partnered to establish the not-for-profit organization, which will be housed in the new 19,475 square-foot facility. The Center will provide a positive and measurable impact on the region, with additional job growth in hospitality, agriculture, tourism, wine, food, health and nutrition.

Osprey's Dominion Vineyards Named NY's Top Winery at New York Wine and Food Classic

Osprey's Dominion Winery was voted "New York Winery of the Year" at this year's New York Food and Wine Classic, held in the Finger Lakes August 9 & 10.

Howard Goldberg of the New York Times offered more results in his column yesterday and it's worth a read.